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Synthetic or conventional drive lube.
- Thread starter MacGyver
- Start date
LAKE EFFECT
New member
Aaron told me they add 2qts of Lucas to a 5 gallon container of Amsoil. 5 gallons is 20qts x 32oz = 640oz/64oz=10%. Thats the math I used. Aaron never gave me a %, he just gave me the 5gal/2qt thing. Maybe there experimenting with different percentages??
LE
smittyseng
Charter Member
When I talked to aaron he told me add a quart of lucas to a few quarts of amsoil so thats what I been doing,sometimes when you talk to them guys they don't give you exact answers
,Smitty
go4broke
New member
I'm running mobil 1 gear lube. Costs the same and mercs conventional hp gear lube. In amsoils tests best lubes were:
1-amsoil
2-mobil 1
3-gm synthetic
http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlubes/WhitePaper.aspx
lots of interesting info. I chose mobil because it is reasonable $ and easy to find. Plus I already had a few cases!
1-amsoil
2-mobil 1
3-gm synthetic
http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlubes/WhitePaper.aspx
lots of interesting info. I chose mobil because it is reasonable $ and easy to find. Plus I already had a few cases!
smittyseng
Charter Member
I don't know what the real difference is but I'm using the severe gear as that was what was recomended to me by max worx,Smitty
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
I am afraid to use Mobil1 in gearcases. Mobil1 make no reference to marine use in their product description. A good marine gearlube has things to tolerate
moisture and water intrusion.
I use Mobil1 engine oil religiously. I use Merc or Amsoil gearlube only. Customers choice.
07DominatorSS
New member
The difference is that the Marine Gear Lube has Less Sulphur in it, which is an anti wear additive. Excess sulphur can have an adverse effect on soft yellow metals that are sometimes used in Marine Gear Cases. The Marine Gear Lube is a GL-4 and the Severe Gear is a GL-5. GL-4 has less Sulphur.
RumRunner
New member
I can’t imagine running anything non synthetic ever…
Now when it comes to the Lucas stuff, anything I’ve ever used from them has always worked flawlessly. With that being said as said before I usually try to avoid anything that is sticky inside any type of engine or gear case. It robs power, and can hold the grime and debris next to the parts you’re trying to protect.
In the race engines I deal with the oil is so thin it’s not even funny, nothing sticky EVER… Heck we’ve backed up to 2WT oils now a days:biggrinjester:
Now when it comes to the Lucas stuff, anything I’ve ever used from them has always worked flawlessly. With that being said as said before I usually try to avoid anything that is sticky inside any type of engine or gear case. It robs power, and can hold the grime and debris next to the parts you’re trying to protect.
In the race engines I deal with the oil is so thin it’s not even funny, nothing sticky EVER… Heck we’ve backed up to 2WT oils now a days:biggrinjester:
Rik
Sponsor / Charter Member
Amsoil?
My U.J.'s run in a bath of oil. Some of the Arnesons use ordinary ATF fluid and I have a customer that swore by Amsoil b/c it lowered the temps on his Bravos.
After 250 hrs with 850 hp blower motors I went through the drives to check things out. (Boat is a 382 Formula and it is loaded = heavy)
U.J. bearings with the ATF fluid looked better than the ones that ran in Amsoil. Both were still good, but the customer used ordinary no name brand ATF fluid in one drive and the Amsoil in the other drive.
As for an Arneson, my belief is .... Oil is Oil. I tell customers to use Merc as they either have it or can get it and it separates the water out if they loose a seal.
I prefer the Mobil 1 Gear oil simply due to nothing more than availability. There is a Grainger in most any town in the US. They carry Mobil 1 Gear oil so it makes acquiring it very easy for anyone.
I get 8-12 thousand hours before rebuilds on drives using nothing more than a standard Mineral 80-90 wt oil also. So go figure.
As far as Bravo's ? I have no experience on what works.
My U.J.'s run in a bath of oil. Some of the Arnesons use ordinary ATF fluid and I have a customer that swore by Amsoil b/c it lowered the temps on his Bravos.
After 250 hrs with 850 hp blower motors I went through the drives to check things out. (Boat is a 382 Formula and it is loaded = heavy)
U.J. bearings with the ATF fluid looked better than the ones that ran in Amsoil. Both were still good, but the customer used ordinary no name brand ATF fluid in one drive and the Amsoil in the other drive.
As for an Arneson, my belief is .... Oil is Oil. I tell customers to use Merc as they either have it or can get it and it separates the water out if they loose a seal.
I prefer the Mobil 1 Gear oil simply due to nothing more than availability. There is a Grainger in most any town in the US. They carry Mobil 1 Gear oil so it makes acquiring it very easy for anyone.
I get 8-12 thousand hours before rebuilds on drives using nothing more than a standard Mineral 80-90 wt oil also. So go figure.
As far as Bravo's ? I have no experience on what works.
LAKE EFFECT
New member
Sorry if I sound stupid but what are U.J.'s. Also, Arnesons get thousands of hours before rebuilds, or was that a typo??
I hate to say it because I'm dependent on the Merc stuff, but the reason why the fluid in the Bravo is so important is because they were under engineered from the get go(1987), and every little thing helps and is needed to get them to survive the HP people(including Merc) are putting to them. I use to run TRS's, and those drives were over engineered for there applications, and if Merc would have thrown some upgrades at them way back when, the high performance boater would be better off. The NXT 1 drive has alot of similarities to the now old and outdated TRS, but costs what to buy(30,000+). Merc could of easily redesigned the drawbacks of the TRS(lower units) and had a great drive that is affordable to the public and profitable to Merc. I know Merc makes some great stuff, and like any company, they are in business to make money. But because they have a monopoly on the market, they charge more than a premium on all there products. Of course this is just my opinion, and sorry for the rant, but I added up what its going to cost to go thru my drives for next season, and its a little disturbing...
LE
Rik
Sponsor / Charter Member
U.J. is a Universal Joint
No typo, the typical fishing boat up in Alaska gets roughly 8,000 to 12,000 hours on them before they take the drives off the boat and change bearings and seals. Some get more. The patrol boats are the same way.
They use any oil they can get their hands on, probably whale fat for all I know. We recommend just generic 80-90 wt gear oil like what is used in your car transmission or rear diff.
No typo, the typical fishing boat up in Alaska gets roughly 8,000 to 12,000 hours on them before they take the drives off the boat and change bearings and seals. Some get more. The patrol boats are the same way.
They use any oil they can get their hands on, probably whale fat for all I know. We recommend just generic 80-90 wt gear oil like what is used in your car transmission or rear diff.
LAKE EFFECT
New member
U-joints, that makes too much sense now that I think about it. Obviously the Arneson is an over engineered piece.
LE
LE
2112
Founding Member / Contributor
FWIW, I just picked up a modified rear axle for my GT500 which included new gears. The shop specializes in ultra custom 9 inch style rear ends taking thousands of horses (race applications)
The Warranty was only good If I continued to run TORCO GL-6 gear oil. According to this shop, most all the big name drag racers are running this now.
Torco is Dino oil BTW.
The Warranty was only good If I continued to run TORCO GL-6 gear oil. According to this shop, most all the big name drag racers are running this now.
Torco is Dino oil BTW.
Offshoredrillin
New member
2112
Founding Member / Contributor
2112
Founding Member / Contributor
I was standing there when my Rear end Man added the Ford rear end additive and you are not kidding, man the smell was repulsive. :leaving:
Rik
Sponsor / Charter Member
No, we do not have a 'Ring and Pinion" design so I don't know anything about that. Sounds to funny not to be true though.
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