Hull Issues (again)

And the proper way to repair the blisters and reseal would be?????

First, you have to grind out the areas. Depending on the size of the blister, you want to grind down and out creating a concave shape. do this for all the blisters. Then run heavy plastic from the water line (approx) of the boat to the ground. Create a tent. Place some space heaters in the tent AND at least one dehumidifier in the tent. Obviously use the heaters during the day and monitor them for safety.

Do this until the hull is dry. Then do it more. Use a moisture meter ( a good one and know how to use it) and check the hull all over. Then do the repairs properly.

Thats the simple version rat
 
Im sorry to hear about your problem and gellcoat blisters are becoming wide spread in the boating world and is more then a cosmetic problem .Water soluble materials in a polyester resin laminate mix with moisture that has penetrated the laminate to create an acidic fliud . The fluid collects in cavities under the gelcoat layer to form blisters. This acidic mixture also attacks the polyester resin, serving the chemical bonds that holds the resin matrix togather as well as the resin to fiber bonds. I have to say that if your boat is made out of polyester the problem is very high . I also was looking at some of the pics of the size of the blisters and after working at a few different Boat co's and seeing the size of those blisters could they possibly be catalyst drips because i have seen catalyst drips that are huge sometimes the size of a fifty cent piece . Well needless to say the problen needs to be addressed because i have seen boats that were so bad the hulls strength has some what been compromised . I guess the bottom line is you need to ask more questions on how they are doing the repair and what filler's & materials they are using ,i also would like to mention that in this type of repair i would use nothing but Epoxy and you can do this yourself if need be . Remember the boat is just a dumb peice of fiberglass and you can be talked thru this whole project all you have to do is ask !
 
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If I'm not mistaken doesn't the type of resin used cause or prevent this? I know GP resins don't hold up that well, but using vinylester resins hold up much better. Maybe Larson is still using GP resins?
Indy ,GP resins are not made for use below the waterline and most of the problems that occur with blisters are mostly boats that have been made out of Polyester resins .
 
So they took a look at the boat, and said it was not water from the outside which caused the blistering, but moisture in the mold when they made the boat. Does that make sense? They said they still want to put a barrier coating on the bottom. Anybody have pics of what that stuff looks like? Is it something that needs to be applied yearly and will require maintenance? I assume it will make the boat slower also?

Thanx Guys!
 
They said they would take no responsibility for the swim platform being installed incorrectly. I think that is absolutely crazy considering it was one of their dealers that installed it incorrectly in the first place.

How come the dealer won't cover it?

Also, when you cut/drill a hole in the transom or anywhere on the boat that is exposed to water (basically anywhere on the boat), you need to coat the hole/exposed wood with epoxy (do not paint it) in addition to using caulk or some sealant (3M 5200 works great, but it is permanent). Using caulk/sealant around or in the hole/exposed wood by itself will not suffice.
 
How come the dealer won't cover it?

Also, when you cut/drill a hole in the transom or anywhere on the boat that is exposed to water (basically anywhere on the boat), you need to coat the hole/exposed wood with epoxy (do not paint it) in addition to using caulk or some sealant (3M 5200 works great, but it is permanent). Using caulk/sealant around or in the hole/exposed wood by itself will not suffice.

Thats what I thought needed to be done. It was crazy that they just screwed right into the transom with no type of sealant. Larson said it was not their problem, but the marina we took the boat to (different marina then who we bought the boat from) the owner said he will fix it. He seems like a good guy, so hopefully it will work out.
 
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Well,,,,i really would not post that here in public.....do u think nobody from those company's read this ???!!!:confused:

BUT GOOD LUCK TO U !!!!
 
Leaving a boat in the water that was not properly bottom painted will void blister warranties on even the highest end of boats. As for the transom, find out what is wrong/wet first, and then go after the dealer. Leaving a boat in the water for more than a day or two without bottom paint is a bad idea.
 
And the proper way to repair the blisters and reseal would be?????
I've have 400 hrs under my belt fixing Blistered hulls.Interlux has a printed guide and all the products to help you take care of a blistered bottom. First you need to mark and pop all the existing blisters and lightly grind them out with a drummel tool, then fill with Interlux epoxy, then sand the whole bottom,then apply 3-5 coats of Interlux 3000 barrier coat, then bottom paint. If blistering is severe Interlux 1000 resin coat can be rolled on the whole bottom and then sanded,etc.,this is a lot of work though. What I did on a high speed motor yacht is the ultimate. Sandblast bottom, fill blisters and all imperfections,1000 resin coat,apply graphite or faring ink,Long board sand the bottom i.e. straightening the bottom. 14coats of 3000 barrier coat, sand smooth, apply 3 coats Interlux VC17 teflon bottom paint and you will have the smoothest, faster than gelcoat,waterproof hull and very sore arms. Always use safety gear, curing epoxy really hurts if you get it in your eyes.
 
By the way on my own 38' Scarab I just let them dry out every winter-looks great in the spring and in the water I can't see them and the fish don't care!
 
So they took a look at the boat, and said it was not water from the outside which caused the blistering, but moisture in the mold when they made the boat. Does that make sense? They said they still want to put a barrier coating on the bottom. Anybody have pics of what that stuff looks like? Is it something that needs to be applied yearly and will require maintenance? I assume it will make the boat slower also?

Thanx Guys!
Interlux 3000 is gray. If you do it right you can make the boat faster.
 
So they took a look at the boat, and said it was not water from the outside which caused the blistering, but moisture in the mold when they made the boat. Does that make sense? They said they still want to put a barrier coating on the bottom. Anybody have pics of what that stuff looks like? Is it something that needs to be applied yearly and will require maintenance? I assume it will make the boat slower also?

Thanx Guys!
If done correctly barrier coats need applying only once. bottom paint as needed. Hope all this helps.
 
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