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Converting a Race Boat into a pleasure Boat
- Thread starter 2TR
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2TR
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I may have a "problem" with projects.. The reason the boat has been put on the back burner for a while is a bought a crap hole house on the water. I was going to tear the house down at first and have a empty lot with a BBQ and tables.. just a place to keep the Sea Ray during the summer..
2TR
Competitor
The back is on the canal, and I mean RIGHT ON THE CANAL.. You can step from the deck to your boat with out touching the grass.. lol
This was the back of the house.. the home was originally a duplex that I turned into one large open space home.
This back room was the "storage are" / entrance way for the upstairs unit. I cut a hall way in, header-ed up the roof
line, put a door wall in and ripped the walls down on half the room to make it a covered porch.
This was the back of the house.. the home was originally a duplex that I turned into one large open space home.
This back room was the "storage are" / entrance way for the upstairs unit. I cut a hall way in, header-ed up the roof
line, put a door wall in and ripped the walls down on half the room to make it a covered porch.
2TR
Competitor
That house and yard is far to small, I bought another water front home last month that we have already closed on and moved into.. this one would be perfect for a poker run stop.. lol, Large yard (350x120) deep canal, 4 covered boat wells, with sea wall for dockage and 1 covered well has a spiral stair case to the top with a large octagon deck looking out over the water. .... and a "bar", cant forget the enclosed bar building on the property.. lol
2TR
Competitor
I'm back... !!!
I was able to lift the complete canopy set up off by myself, flip it than set it up on a couple saw horses.. I'm really surprised as to how light the whole thing is.
Granted I will still be adding some body work, glass and windows at a later date that should as 50/65lbs.
But before I pulled and flipped the part I cut and "gunked" in the rear roll brace that site right behind our seats. This part was cut in to lay / push against the inside lip on the hatch to help provide extra support in-case the boat is flipped or hit up top. Also by doing this before I pulled the lid it helped stiffen up the canopy so flex was kept to a minimum
I was able to lift the complete canopy set up off by myself, flip it than set it up on a couple saw horses.. I'm really surprised as to how light the whole thing is.
Granted I will still be adding some body work, glass and windows at a later date that should as 50/65lbs.
But before I pulled and flipped the part I cut and "gunked" in the rear roll brace that site right behind our seats. This part was cut in to lay / push against the inside lip on the hatch to help provide extra support in-case the boat is flipped or hit up top. Also by doing this before I pulled the lid it helped stiffen up the canopy so flex was kept to a minimum
2TR
Competitor
Next the canopy supports were cut and "gunked" in. I used more gunk than normal but I wanted a nice genital radius for the cloth to attach to.
Once the front part was gunked in I applied a finish radius to the rear roll bar than the inside of the lid, when that was finished we took 1 1/2 round oak and cut this to fit on the sides.
Once the front part was gunked in I applied a finish radius to the rear roll bar than the inside of the lid, when that was finished we took 1 1/2 round oak and cut this to fit on the sides.
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rchevelle71
New member
Uhm Rick.....Gentle radius
Beautiful work.
You beat me to it, he said Genital, and Gunk in the same sentance:ack2:
2TR
Competitor
Uhm Rick.....Gentle radius
Beautiful work.
This phone has gotten me more than once and much worse....lol
The boat next to mine is a 30ft phantom
2TR
Competitor
Last Nights Work..
Quick look at how the front supports were made..
I Used round stock OAK for its strength. I Than cut 1/4 inch off the bottom of the round stock so it would lay nice and flat on the canopy.
Once the parts were in place I than took a small 90 sander and ground it to fit as perfect as I could to help eliminate any possible air voids.
Once finished we put down a nice bead of GUNK. Than the support was set into place. I was careful not to press to hard as I did not want all the gunk to squeeze out.
Once I was happy with the placement we gunked between the canopy and support than I took a plastic bondo knife that I cut to a curve and just pulled it down the line making a nice radius that the fiberglass cloth should have no problem sticking to with a very little chance of air voids.
Quick look at how the front supports were made..
I Used round stock OAK for its strength. I Than cut 1/4 inch off the bottom of the round stock so it would lay nice and flat on the canopy.
Once the parts were in place I than took a small 90 sander and ground it to fit as perfect as I could to help eliminate any possible air voids.
Once finished we put down a nice bead of GUNK. Than the support was set into place. I was careful not to press to hard as I did not want all the gunk to squeeze out.
Once I was happy with the placement we gunked between the canopy and support than I took a plastic bondo knife that I cut to a curve and just pulled it down the line making a nice radius that the fiberglass cloth should have no problem sticking to with a very little chance of air voids.
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