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Converting a Race Boat into a pleasure Boat
- Thread starter 2TR
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2TR
Competitor
Easy weekend..
I finished pulling all the lines from the back to the dash, than refitted the Aluminum I-Beam bracket.
This I-beam was in the boat before when it was the F16 canopy so why not reuse it, right?... lol
This will also work as a step while climbing in and out of the boat. I noticed that I'll need to fab a
step/arm rest because getting in and out with out one is a Bi**tch
Canopy lifted and set on.. It's a awkward shape but it cant be that heavy. I did lift it up myself
and I'm no hulk hogan.
I finished pulling all the lines from the back to the dash, than refitted the Aluminum I-Beam bracket.
This I-beam was in the boat before when it was the F16 canopy so why not reuse it, right?... lol
This will also work as a step while climbing in and out of the boat. I noticed that I'll need to fab a
step/arm rest because getting in and out with out one is a Bi**tch
Canopy lifted and set on.. It's a awkward shape but it cant be that heavy. I did lift it up myself
and I'm no hulk hogan.
2TR
Competitor
Step 3287.. lol
This week I attached the canopy to the deck. I used a little bondo to set the top down onto.
I went with bondo over gunk for a few reasons.. the main one it's easier to sand the radius.
I used a 1" pc. of pvc and some elbow grease..
The front (under the skim coat of bondo) is attached with Gunk. If the boat ever is stuffed
this will take the brunt of the impact and gunk does offer a greater strength over bondo.
This week I attached the canopy to the deck. I used a little bondo to set the top down onto.
I went with bondo over gunk for a few reasons.. the main one it's easier to sand the radius.
I used a 1" pc. of pvc and some elbow grease..
The front (under the skim coat of bondo) is attached with Gunk. If the boat ever is stuffed
this will take the brunt of the impact and gunk does offer a greater strength over bondo.
2TR
Competitor
At the last second I decided to move the canopy a few inch forward. This was done to allow better acess into the front drivers area and to take a little more weight off the
stern as the boat always rode as$ end heavy. The negative is the rear seat room has a little less head room and I'm stuck with some extra body work from the previous F16
canopy.
stern as the boat always rode as$ end heavy. The negative is the rear seat room has a little less head room and I'm stuck with some extra body work from the previous F16
canopy.
2TR
Competitor
Not really sure, most likely will be around the same but wont know till I'm finished.
2TR
Competitor
After the outside was body worked in and rolled I started on the inside. I used gunk to pull the radius
and in the front nose area I used gunk and than a piece of foam board. Once the board was gunked into place I used
a ball grinder to give it a nice rolled edge to lay the glass on.
and in the front nose area I used gunk and than a piece of foam board. Once the board was gunked into place I used
a ball grinder to give it a nice rolled edge to lay the glass on.
2TR
Competitor
This part was a bitch to glass.. I cut small pieces of
1708 to fit in each corner as well as around the center post.
I than cut a 2ft piece for the center with a 5" over lap
on the 3 previous small pieces.
Than the rest of the inside pieces were cut to attach the
canopy to the deck on the inside.
Turned out better than the picture.. lol
1708 to fit in each corner as well as around the center post.
I than cut a 2ft piece for the center with a 5" over lap
on the 3 previous small pieces.
Than the rest of the inside pieces were cut to attach the
canopy to the deck on the inside.
Turned out better than the picture.. lol
2TR
Competitor
Next step was grinding.. and lots of grinding. If your doing a small piece in a well ventilated area you may be able
to get away with no suit, but when your grinding in a building with little ventilation you should have a
GOOD respirator, goggles and body suit.. and I did.
I bunt down all the sharp edges inside and out and prepped the part for finish body work. I did have a
couple air void that developed during the drying period that were easily ground out and fixed at this stage.
to get away with no suit, but when your grinding in a building with little ventilation you should have a
GOOD respirator, goggles and body suit.. and I did.
I bunt down all the sharp edges inside and out and prepped the part for finish body work. I did have a
couple air void that developed during the drying period that were easily ground out and fixed at this stage.
Offshore Ginger
New member
Not to be rude but just two layers of fabric where's the beef ? :huh:
Offshore Ginger
New member
In post #251 you mentioned gunk why not a mixture of Cabsoil and resin making a fillet or cove shaped radius using a hobby stick so your fabric has something to roll into and could you please explain Gunk that Sparky suggested and is it made by DBF ?
2TR
Competitor
Ok im on my phone so lets see how this goes..
The first layer was 6" 1708 cloth also called tape (not sure why) ... I wet it out than while it was still hot i covered it with 12" 1708 tape.
Its hard to see but its under there.
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