Raising the X

Jeffway. i have to agree with trim' up, a 6 mph gain is optimistic but possible and with that in mind & not trying to sound rude but have you ever put a straight edge to the bottom of your boat , because just maybe ,that might need a little work also .
 
Jeffway. i have to agree with trim' up, a 6 mph gain is optimistic but possible and with that in mind & not trying to sound rude but have you ever put a straight edge to the bottom of your boat , because just maybe ,that might need a little work also .
No you are not being rude at all. I have put a 4' level at various places throughout the hull. Other than the factory hooks (wedges) the hull is straight with no hooks. I have the boat way out of the water and the wedges do not have any effect on the boat after about 62MPH. There are a few bubbles in the gel where the boat normally sits on the bunks of the trailor. Other than that the hull looks perfect. I will be looking for advice after I tear into it. I will post many pictures and will be looking forward to everyones input.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Jeff, I would be more than happy to give you a hand when you get to it. I can drink some beer though, so it may be cheaper to pay someone. ;) When you start cutting into your transom, don't expect to see a layup like Geronimo just showed, trust me, a Baja isn't built like an Apache.
 
Jeff, I would be more than happy to give you a hand when you get to it. I can drink some beer though, so it may be cheaper to pay someone. ;) When you start cutting into your transom, don't expect to see a layup like Geronimo just showed, trust me, a Baja isn't built like an Apache.

+1 on the layup. I know the outer skin on my transom (Baja 240) was no more than 2 layers of 1708. Once I had it stripped it was translucent it was so thin. I put 6 layers of biax on the inside before I put the wood back in to thicken it up, overall outer skin is now probably closer to 3/8. And for comparison the plywood layup on mine originally was a sheet of 1/2, 3/8, then another 1/2 inch plywood. With about 1/4 of bondo/bedding compound between the outer skin and the first layer of 1/2 inch plywood. :ack2:
 
When you start cutting into your transom, don't expect to see a layup like Geronimo just showed, trust me, a Baja isn't built like an Apache.
+1 on the layup. I know the outer skin on my transom (Baja 240) was no more than 2 layers of 1708. Once I had it stripped it was translucent it was so thin. I put 6 layers of biax on the inside before I put the wood back in to thicken it up, overall outer skin is now probably closer to 3/8. And for comparison the plywood layup on mine originally was a sheet of 1/2, 3/8, then another 1/2 inch plywood. With about 1/4 of bondo/bedding compound between the outer skin and the first layer of 1/2 inch plywood. :ack2:

Holy crapola!:willy_nilly:
 
+1 on the layup. I know the outer skin on my transom (Baja 240) was no more than 2 layers of 1708. Once I had it stripped it was translucent it was so thin. I put 6 layers of biax on the inside before I put the wood back in to thicken it up, overall outer skin is now probably closer to 3/8. And for comparison the plywood layup on mine originally was a sheet of 1/2, 3/8, then another 1/2 inch plywood. With about 1/4 of bondo/bedding compound between the outer skin and the first layer of 1/2 inch plywood. :ack2:

Mine wasn't that bad. The outer layer was probably 3/16" then the puddy chit, then 3 layers of 1/2" with a layer of mat between them and 2-3 layers of 1708 or similar on the inside skin. Fiberglass is translucent anyway without gell
 
question: any advantages/disadvantages going with a stand-off box with a raised X?

- Pat

Only the price, you will also need full hyd steering. You will have 2k or more in the box plus about 3k for the steering. You will still need to raise the engine with the Imco. The Stellings box will get you a 2" raise with no engine height adjustment. However some say the Stellings is hard on drives with no coupler to absorb the stress. Or you could get a -2 shortie drive and just bolt it on. I have to pull mine apart for repairs anyway so the transum recut is the route I will be taking.
 
As for price... doing it myself I spent $1200 in supplies for twin engine. If I was a bit more resourceful I could have done it for a few hundy less! :)

Labor hours....not sure...don't wanna know!!!! ;)
 
With these threads I have been reading, it has got me thinkin I might be doing mine later this fall. powerquest 185xlt 18'6" 24*V , how high is to high? I am around 6.5" right now running in the high eighties, I am thinking moving it up 2.5-3" maybe. anyone have any advice on how high to go :)
 
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question: any advantages/disadvantages going with a stand-off box with a raised X?

- Pat

Only the price, you will also need full hyd steering. You will have 2k or more in the box plus about 3k for the steering. You will still need to raise the engine with the Imco. The Stellings box will get you a 2" raise with no engine height adjustment. However some say the Stellings is hard on drives with no coupler to absorb the stress. Or you could get a -2 shortie drive and just bolt it on. I have to pull mine apart for repairs anyway so the transum recut is the route I will be taking.

Jeff mentioned some disadvantages. The hard on drive is an opinion. SVL 104 has raced one and pleasure cruise for two seasons with out a problem.

Up side is it changes the leverage point and CG on the boat. If a boat runs heavy and wet a box will help free it up. If the boat is already free it might not enjoy the ride change.
 
With these threads I have been reading, it has got me thinkin I might be doing mine later this fall. powerquest 185xlt 18'6" 24*V , how high is to high? I am around 6.5" right now running in the high eighties, I am thinking moving it up 2.5-3" maybe. anyone have any advice on how high to go :)

Too high? depends on water pick ups for one. Deck and hatch clearance may be a factor too. As well as stringer height. Really its just trial and error on individual boats. You can always space down if need be. I hope you have external steering at your present speed.

Last thought on a smaller boat a shorter case would allow the engine to stay low.
 
I have room to go up, I can fab up some new motor mounts to lift the front of the motor. I run a alpha SS drive which is about 2.5" shorter then a standard alpha. The water pickups are 2 teardrop holes just above the nosecone. No hydra steering, just a stabalizer from drew marine for now.
 
Travis I assumed you had a Bravo. I don't know of any spacer kits for alphas. I am familiar with he SS. So it seems you have a stock height on the boat with a shorty already .

The higher the drive the more steering pull you will encounter. I say external steering is a must if you raise it. I would recommend it now. I think 3" is a huge change. I would be reluctant to go more than 2 more but ,than again I haven't ridden in the boat. I guess you know you will be getting a new propeller too.
 
there is no spacer kits for the alpha I don't think. I know if I go to high and have troubles I can put my standard alpha on be back where I am right now. I know when I went to the SS drive it helped alot, but also handling went down the toilet with a 3 blade laser, blowout at 87 or so. Ran a 24 bravo1 last time out and it handled like it was on rails, insane how the difference a 4 blade would make. Yes I will also be getting a another prop come spring, this was my uncles I used, I guess I will have to buy my own bravo1 LOL! :) I know you haven't rode in my boat, just picture a 12' rowboat with a 1000 hp motor going across the water LOL! get the hint LOL! :) :)
 
Another thing to consider is going with a 3"raised IMCO box ( raise Engine) and just have a set of CMI custom tails made to meet new requirements.
 
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