Raising the X

[DAREDEVIL]

Another thing to consider is going with a 3"raised IMCO box ( raise Engine) and just have a set of CMI custom tails made to meet new requirements.

Or use a stelling box and u don't need all that custom stuff or rais the engine !!!!!!!:USA:

 

[jeffswav]

Mine wasn't that bad. The outer layer was probably 3/16" then the puddy chit, then 3 layers of 1/2" with a layer of mat between them and 2-3 layers of 1708 or similar on the inside skin. Fiberglass is translucent anyway without gell

I understand when you rebuilt your transum you did not use wood. What did you use? I am hoping not to have to tear the entire transum out, but prepairing for the worst.

 

[Trim'd Up]

I didn't use wood in the stringers, bulkheads and floor, I used coosa and divyncell. The transom is original except for the portion I filled to raise the outdrive and it is still wood. The engine stringers are wood as well. I believe wood is the best material for a transom because of the compression strength and the screw holding.

 

[jeffswav]

I didn't use wood in the stringers, bulkheads and floor, I used coosa and divyncell. The transom is original except for the portion I filled to raise the outdrive and it is still wood. The engine stringers are wood as well. I believe wood is the best material for a transom because of the compression strength and the screw holding.

Thanks,
thats good to know. I was looking into the Azek board for a wood substitute. They do not recomend it for anything structural. I assume that means no transum replacement.

 

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I agree the transom and stringers where the engines mount should be wood. Everything else can be something else.

 

[Trim'd Up]

I don't think Azek would be good for anything in boat. It's heavy as hell and not that strong for the weight. If you really want to do a composite coosa bluewater 26 would probably be good but it is expensive and not necessary. The wood transom lasted almost 20 years without being properly sealed. If you do it right it will last forever.

 

[jeffswav]

I do think sealing it up may be the key. When I have it apart I will make sure there is no bear wood left untreated. I am still working on my hoist in my building. I have a I Beam on order, I am going to get a 2 or 3 ton trolley and chain hoist.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

Jeffsway i would recomend a good marine grade plywood and if you have to buy a full sheet of 3/4 it will run around $ 90 a sheet .

 

[jeffswav]

Got my I Beam in today for my hoist. One step closer to starting the project.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

Got my I Beam in today for my hoist. One step closer to starting the project.

Hey guy i use a gantry and after you get everything setup you will kick youself for not doing it years ago .:rofl::rofl:

 

[jeffswav]

Hey guy i use a gantry and after you get everything setup you will kick youself for not doing it years ago .:rofl::rofl:

I have only had my building for 2 years (42wx60dx12h). I always thought it would be handy to have a hoist. My friend owns a Iron Shop and picked me up a 20' I Beam. We are going to tie one end of the beam to the buildings framework (3) 2x6's, the other end will bolt to the roof truss. When I use it for lifting I will attach a post from the beam to a concrete pad. I will have side to side movement, however the boat or whatever I am lifting will need to be moved forward or back manually. I only have a small amount of concrete so a roll-around hoist would not work well for me. Things do not roll well on gravel. I will take a few pics of it after I get it constructed.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

I have only had my building for 2 years (42wx60dx12h). I always thought it would be handy to have a hoist. My friend owns a Iron Shop and picked me up a 20' I Beam. We are going to tie one end of the beam to the buildings framework (3) 2x6's, the other end will bolt to the roof truss. When I use it for lifting I will attach a post from the beam to a concrete pad. I will have side to side movement, however the boat or whatever I am lifting will need to be moved forward or back manually. I only have a small amount of concrete so a roll-around hoist would not work well for me. Things do not roll well on gravel. I will take a few pics of it after I get it constructed.

sounds great and looking foward to seeing the pics .

 

[jeffswav]

Ok, the hoist is in hear are the pictures.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

l@@kin good and you should be ready for just about anything .

 

[jeffswav]

l@@kin good and you should be ready for just about anything .

Already have the outdrive off. Pulled out some of the interior and wiring. I am planning on pulling the back seat and the engine tomorow. Its was about 28 deg outside today but it was 60 deg in the shop , the ready heater will be working hard again tomorow.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

Already have the outdrive off. Pulled out some of the interior and wiring. I am planning on pulling the back seat and the engine tomorow. Its was about 28 deg outside today but it was 60 deg in the shop , the ready heater will be working hard again tomorow.

Very cool Jeff and look you are already starting to kick a$$ .

 

[jeffswav]

Pulling the engine on the new hoist.

 

[jeffswav]

Transom is not looking good. Looks like I will be doing a complete tearout and reconstruction. The entire bottom half is soft, looks like it was leaking around the seal. The gell has a wear spot around it, do you guys think the housing was leaking? The nuts were not very tight, do you think they may have backed off. Should I replace the rubber seal? Good news is the stringers seem solid. I may beef them up with a sheet of 3/4 marine ply on both sides and make it more rigid. Any input at this point is appreciated.

 

[jeffswav]

Here are the pics.

 

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

The bolts only get torqued to 25 ft/lbs.. I suspect the soft wood was the issue and the bolts did not come loose or have anything to do with the leak.