What's the REAL story with Bravo XR's?

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Shorties however do seem to have a shorter life span.....
A question for you! When you say "it's all in the sticks" are you implying that people dont know how to throttle or just running them to hard? I have read on this same comment from guys who have a lot more than 500HP behind a Bravo.

Stu Jones of FPC told me once in 03 that the bigggest failures on his poker runs were Bravo's.
 
A while back Merc changed the XR gears to one's with a thicker floor. Apparently they used to have a lot of failures in that area. Does anyone know if these are the ones that are having all the issues?

I just upgraded to XR's last season, I picked up a set of used Merc reman units(not swept back), probabally 2005 vintage,with around 10hrs of use from the previous owner who bought them from Merc. Anyways, When Merc came out with the X,XZ,and XR drives around 2000, they all came with thicker floor gears which fixed the issue of blowing the clutch through the gears. These early XR gears lasted longer, and when they did wear out they would pit, letting you know its time to replace.

I'm not sure of the manufacturing timeline (maybe someone else does), but the later gears dont usually pit, but actually the teeth start to crack at the root and break off. I only know this because on my 2005 drives, upon an inspection(with 20hrs from me) I had a forward gear with a visable crack in one tooth. I was forced to keep using it, but am using that gear for reverse. I am going to have them apart for spring inspection soon and am curious what they look like now, I put around 60hrs on them so far against 750hp.

Bravo 101: As far as the X,XZ, and XR drives go, and someone correct me if I'm wrong. The X uses thick floor helical upper gears with a std 1" prop shaft. The XZ uses thick floor helical upper gears with the 1 1/4" XR prop shaft, and the XR uses thick floor straight cut upper gear with the 1 1/4" XR prop shaft.

LE
 
Good info, it would be nice to find out what they've changed. Did yours come with the silver or orange garter springs? I've seen the orange springs in a couple newer units that had issues. Both times there was a problem with the upper driven gear on the counter rotation side. The silver springs seem to have helped. I thought all XR's would have the silver springs?
 
Bravo 101: As far as the X,XZ, and XR drives go, and someone correct me if I'm wrong. The X uses thick floor helical upper gears with a std 1" prop shaft. The XZ uses thick floor helical upper gears with the 1 1/4" XR prop shaft, and the XR uses thick floor straight cut upper gear with the 1 1/4" XR prop shaft.

LE




You are correct!

My last Fountain, a 99 35, had 500's and regular Bravos, tagged as Performance Bravo which was nothing more than the dual water pick-ups, and not a hint of a problem. Torn down for a look see at 170'ish hours and were perfect. New one, 2006 Lightning with 525's and XR's has had one upper gear set replaced at a little over 100 hrs. No broken teeth but little chunks out of the face of the teeth. Got lucky and was suspect of all the little chunky chit on the magnets, tore it down before it chit and made things worse.

My Velocity had std Bravos with 525 SC's with chillers and boost upped, 600 plus HP, and it would blow the floor out of the gears, snap the tower off, even blew one gear set out the side of the case. This was a true case of more than the designed power for the drive. I always understood this deal, just don't understand the XR deal.
 
No broken teeth but little chunks out of the face of the teeth. Got lucky and was suspect of all the little chunky chit on the magnets, tore it down before it chit and made things worse.

How much did the new gear cost you?

Any one know what it costs to rebuilt an XR?
 
How much did the new gear cost you?

Any one know what it costs to rebuilt an XR?

XR's gear sets come with 2 drive gears and 1 pinion and list for around $1600. I think you can also buy just the pinion, but the drive gears are not available individually.

LE
 
Good info, it would be nice to find out what they've changed. Did yours come with the silver or orange garter springs? I've seen the orange springs in a couple newer units that had issues. Both times there was a problem with the upper driven gear on the counter rotation side. The silver springs seem to have helped. I thought all XR's would have the silver springs?

I cant remember the color, but will look the next time I'm in there.

LE
 
No one is talking about what props they have....3,4,5 or 6 blades. I used to beat the crap out of my 42 when it had 525SC's with 3 blades on standard Bravos...never broke a drive in 4 seasons. Also I have noticed slack in some prop hubs. Slide hammer effect? If you keep popping the same drive it might be something to look at.
 
XR's gear sets come with 2 drive gears and 1 pinion and list for around $1600. I think you can also buy just the pinion, but the drive gears are not available individually.

LE

How easy is it to open those up and take a look at the gears? The furthest I've gone is taking a drive off, never opened one up myself. I'd like to check mine before I start the season...any help/advice on how to do this would be appreciated.
 
Does the ITS system add any more reliability to a bravo XR??

Yes and no.

It doesn't make the drive itself any stronger, but it stabilizes the gimbal and reduces wear on the gimbal ring.

Its a very clean way of doing external steering.

I have 2 of them (on different boats) and its a superb but expensive part.
 

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How easy is it to open those up and take a look at the gears? The furthest I've gone is taking a drive off, never opened one up myself. I'd like to check mine before I start the season...any help/advice on how to do this would be appreciated.


They're pretty easy to take apart.

You'll need the proper spanner wrench to deal with the pinion
retainer nut .
 
How easy is it to open those up and take a look at the gears? The furthest I've gone is taking a drive off, never opened one up myself. I'd like to check mine before I start the season...any help/advice on how to do this would be appreciated.

You can pull the back cap and see the teeth faces of the pinion and drive gears and get an idea of how there wearing. You will probabally need to pull the pinion and drive gears out to inspect the gears properly. I didnt see the crack in my gear untill I pulled it apart.

LE
 
How easy is it to open those up and take a look at the gears? The furthest I've gone is taking a drive off, never opened one up myself. I'd like to check mine before I start the season...any help/advice on how to do this would be appreciated.

Big Time PM me I did your Dad's lower last winter for Nicky
 
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