Raising the X

[jeffswav]

Jeff , l@@king good and a little more beef never hurt's ......... yeah baby !!!!

Thanks for being so persistant about adding the extra layer of 1708 and the tabbing. It looks much more solid now.

 

[jeffswav]

Jeff i apologize for not getting back with you sooner and as far as the Bilge paint goes , i always use Imron - 555-u which Skater uses because it is cheaper then Awlgrip and almost as durable and to tell you the truth you would never be able to tell one from the other because they both are very good products and both can be brushed on .

Artie, is there any downside to using the gel except for being more time consuming? I can get a good price on 5 gallons of white gel, in addition to the bilge I would like to remove the carpet and put gel in the cuddy. Just an idea I have.

 

[Trim'd Up]

Looking better all the time Jeff. I'm glad the 1708 worked out better than the other chit you had.
I think I told ya already, but I used Sherwin Williams Tile Clad on my bilge. The fumes are nasty but that chit is hard as hell when it dries. It won't stain from any chemicals and you would need a chisel to chip it. It is a little pricey because you have to buy a gallon of both part A and B though.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

Artie, is there any downside to using the gel except for being more time consuming? I can get a good price on 5 gallons of white gel, in addition to the bilge I would like to remove the carpet and put gel in the cuddy. Just an idea I have.

Jeff the only down side when using jell in the bilge or cuddy area is the work time and you will have to use wax additive mixed with the jell or spray PVA on top of the jell after its painted , which can be washed off after the jell dries because the color of PVA is green and is water solvable which we discussed in the past and what ever you decide to use , be it jell or paint in the bilge or cuddy area you will do just fine :willy_nilly:

 

[jeffswav]

Jeff the only down side when using jell in the bilge or cuddy area is the work time and you will have to use wax additive mixed with the jell or spray PVA on top of the jell after its painted , which can be washed off after the jell dries because the color of PVA is green and is water solvable which we discussed in the past and what ever you decide to use , be it jell or paint in the bilge or cuddy area you will do just fine :willy_nilly:

Artie, I am only 40 not as old as you, I still move pretty quick. :rofl: I have done pretty good so far keeping ahead of my work. I may just get the 5 gallons of Gell and see how it works, as you said before I can always sand it down and start over.

 

[jeffswav]

Looking better all the time Jeff. I'm glad the 1708 worked out better than the other chit you had.
I think I told ya already, but I used Sherwin Williams Tile Clad on my bilge. The fumes are nasty but that chit is hard as hell when it dries. It won't stain from any chemicals and you would need a chisel to chip it. It is a little pricey because you have to buy a gallon of both part A and B though.

Are you still in Florida? I am going to Mexico in 12 days and counting. The 1708 worked out great. I am running a little short and I wish I had a little more for the stringers, I am going to use some of the mat then the 1708. The 1708 is so much easier to work with, it does not come apart like the mat.

 

[Trim'd Up]

I got back in town Thursday evening. How much more 1708 do you need? I might have some smaller pieces still laying around.

 

[jeffswav]

Here is the latest update. I filled in all of the holes on the transom with glass and resign.

 

[jeffswav]

I have started sanding down the glass patches. I am going to need some fine filler to get it smooth. Any suggestions on what to use? Also after I gel and sand I will need some buffing compound. From other threads I have read the "3m micro finish" works well, any other recomendations? I have heard that a lot of guys like the leverage products. Will any of those work?
Thanks,

 

[Offshore Ginger]

I have started sanding down the glass patches. I am going to need some fine filler to get it smooth. Any suggestions on what to use? Also after I gel and sand I will need some buffing compound. From other threads I have read the "3m micro finish" works well, any other recomendations? I have heard that a lot of guys like the leverage products. Will any of those work?
Thanks,

Jeff i have always used a filler made by Adtech which is P#77 which is good above and below the waterline and easy to sand and can be used on epoxy and there web site is www.adtechplastics.com . Jeff every boat Co that i have ever worked for uses P#77 including Skater, and there also is a very good alternative product made by 3M which also makes a good filler for use above and below the waterline which also is very easy to sand . Jeff before i recomend a compound it really depends on what grit you plan on having the jell in when you are ready to buff . Jeff i have used a bar compound that will take out 600 scratches made by Buckingham or Aqua buff , along with 3M , which makes a whole line of compounds for paint and jell . Jeff , i have always used and preferred a more aggressive compound and personally do not like to use 3M Mirco finish compound on jell , Imron or Awlgrip .

 

[jeffswav]

Worked on the stringers, I have a little more work to do on them. I am going to add some tabbing between the stringer and the transom. I also have to measure the width and make sure it is 3 5/8" to match the motor mounts. Other than that they are pretty much finnished.

 

[Trim'd Up]

Jeff, I don't have any appreciable amount of 1708 left. Just what I gave you. Looks like you made it work anyway.

 

[jeffswav]

Jeff, I don't have any appreciable amount of 1708 left. Just what I gave you. Looks like you made it work anyway.

Thanks, I used the mat and cloth that I already had for the stringers. I have some small pieces of 1708 left over and I am going to use that to tab in the corners. For anyone else wanting to tackle a project like this get a good amount of 1708 before you start. The mat and cloth is harder to work.

 

[Knot 4 Me]

Can't wait to see it all painted!

 

[jeffswav]

Can't wait to see it all painted!

Yea, me too. This is basically a weekend and evening project, seems like it is taking forever. I am going to gel the bilge it should look sweet when finnished.

 

[jeffswav]

I have been looking into glass bubbles for my finnish work. Anyone use these before? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...E3E02LECFTDQ4G06_nid=RW9RK30ZSQbeWHB23F5LMRgl

 

[jeffswav]

Here are the latest pictures. The outside is ready for the finish filler.

 

[jeffswav]

Here are the pics from the work this morning. After cutting the hole the transom is a little thicker at the bottom about 2 1/4", the sides and the top are about 2 1/16". I dry fit the transom assembly and it definatly needs to come off the outside. After I cut the hole with the sawzaw I used the rotory tool with the sanding wheel to smooth out the saw cut. I will take another picture after I get it flat.

 

[jeffswav]

Done for the day, here are a few more pics. The thinest part of the transom was 2", I sanded and blended everthing to 2", everything is nice and flat. Some of you were curious about the mounts, I had to sand down the stringers a little to get them to fit. Here is what they look like sitting on the stringers.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

Done for the day, here are a few more pics. The thinest part of the transom was 2", I sanded and blended everthing to 2", everything is nice and flat. Some of you were curious about the mounts, I had to sand down the stringers a little to get them to fit. Here is what they look like sitting on the stringers.

Dave , glass dave & myself are going to be outta work :rofl::rofl: How was the vacation and i hope you and the wife had a great time ? Jeff , l@@ks great , no voids or gaps from what i can see from the pics and just a word of mention , coat the perimeter of your cut outs with resin or better yet use..............