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Phragle's official winter upgrade thread..
- Thread starter phragle
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phragle
Charter Member
Finally got the section made to box off under the back seat for storage. wedged it into place and got a few 5" pieces of tabbing setting up to hold it in place and will finish tabbing it in tomorrow morning. Then its time to start wiring the boat. ordered 14 yards of vinyl today. Supposed to be in friday and I will drop the side panels, back seat and sunpad off at the upholsterers friday afternoon. Ordered a new steering wheel too...can't have a spiffy new dash with an old beat up steering wheel...
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Wrinkleface
Founding Member
Cool
Bobcat
Founding Member
phragle
Charter Member
The underside of the back seat was open to the bilge, so it was useless for storage. I took some 3/8's, glassed both sides, then mounted it with a double layer of tabbing. Fot the battery mount(s) (adding a second battery) I took 2 pieces of 3/4 and laminated them together with a 3/4 tongue that sticks out forward and rests on the rear bulkhead for support. For the main mounts, I have 2 big chunks of heavy alum. angle that used to be part of the motormounts on a skater on each side to mount it between the stringers. Should be bullet proof with the gill battery mounts.
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phragle
Charter Member
Had to cut a big hole...... Had Dave look at how big I wanted it to make sure I wasn't going to big....
So, in wiring the boat I got to thinking... With my offroad racing background, you need to build systems that will get you home no matter what goes wrong. So I did my best to split the electrical system into 2 parts. The main power coming off the merc 9/10 pin harness only powers the ignition and gauges with its own ground, The ignition and gauges are fed by a blue seas 6 gang fusebox with negative bus bar, also the circuit breaker on the motor. The fusebox is mounted behind the dash.
For the accessories (stereo, lights, bilge pump etc) I ran a separate 10 ga. power and ground wire from the battery switch (going directly from the battery switch to a 50 amp merc breaker) then to the front of the boat with the ground terminating at the battery. This feeds a 12 gang blue seas fuse box with neg. bus bar inside the console then to the switches.
This should isolate the 2 separate systems somewhat. The stereo amp has a separate feed from the battery switch with a 60 amp merc breaker inline. The auto bilge pump/float switch is ran directly (fused) and grounded directly from the deep cycle battery.
Sound good? or am I over thinking/rigging things?
So, in wiring the boat I got to thinking... With my offroad racing background, you need to build systems that will get you home no matter what goes wrong. So I did my best to split the electrical system into 2 parts. The main power coming off the merc 9/10 pin harness only powers the ignition and gauges with its own ground, The ignition and gauges are fed by a blue seas 6 gang fusebox with negative bus bar, also the circuit breaker on the motor. The fusebox is mounted behind the dash.
For the accessories (stereo, lights, bilge pump etc) I ran a separate 10 ga. power and ground wire from the battery switch (going directly from the battery switch to a 50 amp merc breaker) then to the front of the boat with the ground terminating at the battery. This feeds a 12 gang blue seas fuse box with neg. bus bar inside the console then to the switches.
This should isolate the 2 separate systems somewhat. The stereo amp has a separate feed from the battery switch with a 60 amp merc breaker inline. The auto bilge pump/float switch is ran directly (fused) and grounded directly from the deep cycle battery.
Sound good? or am I over thinking/rigging things?
fund razor
Founding Member
How is your ignition kill wired?