Lifting Plates

old377guy

Charter Member
Do you guys have any comments about using a lifting plate for taking out an engine with BW trans attached? Manifolds and accessories will be removed beforehand. Thanks in advance - Jeff
 
safe working load on a 5/16" bolt is about 350 lbs in Grade 2. That's working load, not the failure limit of the bolt which is much higher but that's a static number. Working load means bumps, jolts and such. You'd probably be ok. But those plates aren't that useful in getting unbalanced loads in and out. once you get thr trans tail free it's going to be much heavier in the back. Harbor Freight has a tilt bar for under $30. Pull the intake manifold bolts on the 4 corners and use longer bolts and lifting tabs and save yourself a ton of wrestling.
 
Well, I've done it numerous times if that helps.......


Make sure you have the good plates, and good grade 8 bolts tightened down. It is actually not terribly off balance with the 72C's, but easier without them. It becomes a two person job with them attached. I've done it with all accessories attached too.

I'll tell you a little story;

Removing the engines and trans out of the Scorpion. Missed one bolt on the solid motor mount plates (Yes, I can say duh), lifted the entire back of the boat off the trailer. It did bend the plate a bit, but that was all. Had to be 3000lbs to 4000lbs or so on the thing. I didn't notice until the boat swayed on the chain hoist......

(I can go take a pic of the bent plate if you want...:blush5:)
 
Are you talking about a carb pattern plate?.. I would not suggest that. Mercs came with lift plates{ each would have two 3/8 bolts} . and they will carry the engine and trannie. I have never separated the engine from the trannie. I will always pull complete. Use a lift bar or chain to carry the engine then use a 1" ratchet strap attached to the trannie to level the load.
 
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