2TR
Competitor
Not sure who makes gunk but its strong, very stong.. I used it to attach the lid too the deck than pull the radius.
Im told it gives structural strength and will not absorb water if there is ever A crack.
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Converting a Race Boat into a pleasure Boat
- Thread starter 2TR
- Start date
Not sure who makes gunk but its strong, very stong.. I used it to attach the lid too the deck than pull the radius.
Im told it gives structural strength and will not absorb water if there is ever A crack.
Offshore Ginger
New member
Ok im on my phone also , and to tell you the truth two layers of fabric in my opinion along the perimeter of the Canopy is not enough beef inside or out ........................which is a very high impact area ,and have you ever given much thought what could ever happen if you barrel roll or stuff the boat ? BEEF OR NO BEEF .............your call ! Just a quick mention i have done many canopies in the past with just as much fabric being laid on the inside of the canopy .........then you have used for the whole job, inside / or out !
2TR
Competitor
I could cut another piece of 1708 16" wide and lay that over the 12" pc. That would give me 3 sheets thick at the seam.. More than some hulls..lol.
I will ask spark also.. Seems like a good idea but i dont want to over build a 100mph boat(at best) and waste cloth and add weight.
I have spent some time in a few canopied SS cats and feel my overall design is stronger .
But all input and ideas are welcome as im no boat builder and lots of what im doing was taught from youtube vids and other boaters advice.
Thanks and have a great xmass
I will ask spark also.. Seems like a good idea but i dont want to over build a 100mph boat(at best) and waste cloth and add weight.
I have spent some time in a few canopied SS cats and feel my overall design is stronger .
But all input and ideas are welcome as im no boat builder and lots of what im doing was taught from youtube vids and other boaters advice.
Thanks and have a great xmass
Offshore Ginger
New member
In the past i have done F16 fighter canopies but mostly 4 man and have you ever seen a canopy that failed because a lack of Beef ( material ) and when does a waste of fabric and added weight come into play considering it is all about safety first . Please do not take this the wrong way because it is only a concern . Merry Christmas & happy New Year .
2TR
Competitor
After talking with Sparky (Vicious Boats), and Dave (GlassDave) both did agree that 3 laminates on the outside would be preferred to go along with the
2 on the inside. Sparky and I also spoke about making the boat a poker/play/race boat and if this was a "race only" boat the canopy would have been
built and designed very different. But building this as a class 4 (85) / poker run / play boat some areas are modified to work both was. Also this boat will
only be raced in class 4 (85mph) with a set of 200hp (or maybe 225's), this is not a 100mph/110/120/130/140 canopy which would be built dramatically different.
But this is the plan going forward - I'm going to use 2 12" pieces of 1708 overlapping 3-4" on the section were the hull and deck join.
2TR
Competitor
Maybe... we are also working on the new race boat so I'm splitting time between the two projects right now (whats new)
2TR
Competitor
The inside is painted with a flat black to keep reflections down.
Next I made some sound deadening foam boards to put on the walls.
This is mostly cosmetic, but it should help with the thumping you get
in a canopied boat.
I used 1/8 luan that was wet out with resin than painted white.
Next I made some sound deadening foam boards to put on the walls.
This is mostly cosmetic, but it should help with the thumping you get
in a canopied boat.
I used 1/8 luan that was wet out with resin than painted white.
2TR
Competitor
Talking with GlassDave he mentioned how nice it was inside the Wahoo Fountain with it painted "black" , He than rode in a bat-boat painted black and said
it's so easy on the eyes that he would never want to run another canopied boat that was not painted black. than I stumbled across a video of the inside of
the Gieco boat, it was black also.. after a search of canopied boats forsale on line most of them were painted black......so black it is.
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Can't tell by your pix but, I would also suggest you paint the top flat [ horizontal surface ]of the dash flat black as well.
My preference would be to paint the entire dash flat black.
My preference would be to paint the entire dash flat black.
2TR
Competitor
I was going to paint the face black, but that changed my mind for cosmetic reasons, but the dash top is painted flat black also.
Offshore Ginger
New member
I , agree .
2TR
Competitor
I might try the carbon fiber dash panel, I have some material - Just never worked with it before.. but thats in the future...
Lets get back to the present .
Now that the inside is 75% complete I'm moving out...
First : The piece of wood you see will represent the window (1/2') lexan (or what ever Dave says to order...)
I went with this idea because it gave me a "lip-less" window on the inside and added a little extra material
to the outside front pillar and to radius for strength.
This was attached with long screws to 2x4's I placed inside the canopy.
Fronts - same deal.
Now the fun...
I'm using balsa core to build up around the wood - blending it into the canopy for a seamless transition.
Once the balsa is cut I'll scuff the surface than lay a layer of chop to in-bed the balsa in. along with the top layer and
some body work this will give me a good recess for the window.
The nice part about this is the extra balsa/(cloth) will be built up on the contact points giving the canopy extra strength
were it would be needed in case a flip, stuff or hit.
Lets get back to the present .
Now that the inside is 75% complete I'm moving out...
First : The piece of wood you see will represent the window (1/2') lexan (or what ever Dave says to order...)
I went with this idea because it gave me a "lip-less" window on the inside and added a little extra material
to the outside front pillar and to radius for strength.
This was attached with long screws to 2x4's I placed inside the canopy.
Fronts - same deal.
Now the fun...
I'm using balsa core to build up around the wood - blending it into the canopy for a seamless transition.
Once the balsa is cut I'll scuff the surface than lay a layer of chop to in-bed the balsa in. along with the top layer and
some body work this will give me a good recess for the window.
The nice part about this is the extra balsa/(cloth) will be built up on the contact points giving the canopy extra strength
were it would be needed in case a flip, stuff or hit.
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