Anybody use a canopy or a carport for boat parking?

fund razor

Founding Member
Giving this some thought. One would fit next to my garage and I could pour a concrete pad for under the boat. Our local city will ticket us for parking on the grass, but if I pave it and put a carport or a canopy over that.... I am good. Plus, it would keep the rain off and the tree parts and bird doo off too.
There are a lot of trees, and they drop a lot of crap.

I've seen some carports that would fit my boat for about 1500 plus (a lot of) shipping, and some canopies for about 300.00.
 
I used the cheap one from PepBoys, the tarp wears out after a few years, but its only about $100 for the whole setup, so its worth it. Mine was only 20', and the pantera mostly fit under it, you would need 2.
 
http://www.creativeshelters.com/

Take a look at building your own. Tarp material should be easily available. The metal tubing should also be readily available locally. Fence tubing can be used for heavy duty legs and you can get it vinyl coated in green,brown,black (think tennis court fences).

I would think the biggest consideration is width and height: your off the shelf 10x20 might not offer enough working room.
 
http://www.creativeshelters.com/

Take a look at building your own. Tarp material should be easily available. The metal tubing should also be readily available locally. Fence tubing can be used for heavy duty legs and you can get it vinyl coated in green,brown,black (think tennis court fences).

I would think the biggest consideration is width and height: your off the shelf 10x20 might not offer enough working room.

That's true. But I saw one that was 10' by 27' by 9'8". If a foot of bow hangs out, so be it.
But I'll look at that link. Thanks Michael.

Actually... I could use fence tubing to build a freaking permanent one. :sifone:
 
I actually considered building a 12' by 36' garage to put back behind my attached garage, but that would be a bit much... and I don't LOVE this property.
 
My buddy had one for his 36 Outlaw. It was galvanized poles with aluminum panels. The poles were bolted to concrete slab. It was right next to a block wall on one side and had lattice on the other. It worked really well.

I'm getting one for my place from my old neighbor. It's 12' X 35' so my 29 Outlaw will fit in it fine. It will go between a block wall and my house so probably won't have sides but will put a back and front on it.

They are bolted together so you can take them with you if you move. I think my buddy paid around $3K for his new. My neighbor wants $600 for his and it is like new so it's a no brainer.

It wasn't this brand but was just like it.

http://rontimco.com/index.php/carports/steel-carports
 
Not so much the length...width and height. Most OTS advertise as 10x20. Put a tape on 'em on they may come in at less than 10' between the poles. What's the beam on your boat? Have you measured the widest point of the trailer? How high is your widest point? Plus the sides may start at less than 6'AGL (abve grnd lvl) and depending on the design may be less than 10' at the peak. Morale of the story - the boat may fit, but strictly for storing; you may not have enough room to work.

I was a religious user of these things back when I was racing cars. Used them at the house and used them at the track. But having seen how high and wide my Formula was on the trailer, it would've been a super tight fit. I think the rubrail was at/over 6' at some points. I would've needed a tall peak (or curved roof beams, which I actually used to have) to make sure the sides of the boat cleared the roof supports.

Hey, FWIW, I think I still have a white roof and sides still in the wrapper. I have to go through and see if they're intact.

As for fence posts, you have top rail, line posts and corner posts. Line posts would probably work and 10' lengths could be cut/buried for good side height.
 
millings? Tell them it was paved once but you didn't keep up with it.

I have a buddy who has used a carport for years and it works well. I was thinking of doing the same while I plan my garage. I was going to shrink wrap the sides and back as well.
 
I would either cough up the dough to put an addition onto the garage, or pay to store it somewhere else.

Your going to pay a few grand for a deccent carport/tent/eyesore. Your going to pay another few grand to have a remotely deccent contractor scratch out the sod and and fill with agg, slag, or millings and your still questionable with the city. By that point you are well over half way to having a concreted additon to your existing house.
 
This was $2K delivered a couple years ago....14 x 42 x 15 tall. Some cost more and it seems the fabric might be worth the extra money. At 4 years old the zippers are starting to give me trouble but I'm in there 3-4 times a week summer and winter.
 

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I would either cough up the dough to put an addition onto the garage, or pay to store it somewhere else.

Your going to pay a few grand for a deccent carport/tent/eyesore. Your going to pay another few grand to have a remotely deccent contractor scratch out the sod and and fill with agg, slag, or millings and your still questionable with the city. By that point you are well over half way to having a concreted additon to your existing house.
What will a 10 by 28 concrete pad cost me? I know you are an asphalt guy, but I'll bet you know.
 
I just had a 12x80 x4" pad done for $2300 thats with me doing 100% of the prep work, base agg, grade, drains ect.

Theres lots of "residential" type concrete guys who are hungry right now, dont be affraid to call around and ask. if you can do all the prep work yourself you will probably get a quote over the phone, if not they will probably need to see it first. Estimates are usually free.
 
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