Working on the engine hatch.

[Buoy]

Finally got back to work on the boat today.
One of the things I'm working on is the engine hatch.
It has a "broken back".
It is radiused to a curve to fit the boat, but one (or more) of the ribs under the hatch have sagged.
When Sean had the boat, he must have had some Heffers on it, or jumped up and down on it himself:sifone:
Towards the Bow, it is too wide, and rubbing the gunwales when it closes.
Before I paint, I want to fix this and make sure I have clearance/ gap lines.
I'm aiming for a 1/4" each side.
The hatch has 3 ribs under it, and the aft has plenty of clearance, the rib to the Bow needs more "arch".
I pulled the hatch, measured st the bow rib, and realized I need to pull it tighter by almost 1".
I layed it out on saw-horses, and pulled out some pipe clamps to bring it back to the curve it should be.
My plan is to grind down to the glass on the Bow rib, and then re-glass over it to bring it back tighter to the curve.
Should I over-compensate to allow flex??
How much??
How much glass and resin??
I'll add a few post with pics to explain.

 

[Buoy]

More pics

 

[Buoy]

More

 

[Buoy]

The Bullet hinges appear to originally be placed folded down onto the vertical surface of the deck transom, but had been remounted to the top-side of the transom deck. I'd like to remount them as original.
I already have a electric hatch acuatar, but I'm going to be shopping for electric actuatated pins to secure the hatch when closed.
Anyone have a source before I go searching?

 

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I haven't heard of electric pins. I think the actuator would hold it closed. Is the forward rib cracked where the lift rod pivot is drilled?

Glass contracts as it cures. I would suggest 2 layers of 1708 to repair the ribs. I also think you should fabricate a arch template and clamp in a number of places rather than use the pipe during the repair. Are there any clearance issues between the rib and motor maybe a taller rib is in order.

The hinges are stronger mounted where they are. If you move them like you want add some snubber or some how shim in a support from under side of hatch to deck so it will carry the load of walking on the hatch so the hinge does not do all the work.

Finally the width may be right after you correct the arch. I wouldn't change it until the arch is repaired.

I expect you may get some other varying suggestions. Here are my 2 cents

 

[Buoy]

Yep, rib is cracked where the hole is drilled for the support arm.

No clearance issues with motor - have plenty of room from motor to bottom of hatch at least 2-3 inches from top of flame arrestor.

I was thinking that pulling it together from the outside edges to the correct overall width would naturally take it back to the radius it needs to be to fit properly. I mainly don't want the hatch rubbing on the inside of the gunwales in that area and tearing up the paint.

 

[Tomas Wallin]

Is that the original mount? I mean is the hatch supposed to be flushed with the deck, or has it been raised?

It looks a bit wierd from the cockpit.

Do you have any pic without the hatch?

 

[Buoy]

Is that the original mount? I mean is the hatch supposed to be flushed with the deck, or has it been raised?

It looks a bit wierd from the cockpit.

Do you have any pic without the hatch?

It was raised to clear a motor that was previously in the boat.
I'd kind of like to keep it flush, with a very thin pad on top.

 

[Dude! Sweet!]

Yah, that's right Tim! Not me... that's Chris' deal. And you know he's from CNY... so if someone's going to load up the boat with "well insulated" women, what are the odds that it's from SoCal vs. Lake George!

I'm still laughing... I say you go with the race hatch like on Plum Loco!

 

[Buoy]

Yah, that's right Tim! Not me... that's Chris' deal. And you know he's from CNY... so if someone's going to load up the boat with "well insulated" women, what are the odds that it's from SoCal vs. Lake George!

I'm still laughing... I say you go with the race hatch like on Plum Loco!

If I do that, I might as well go with a three man standup.
My sawzall died, so I don't have a good way to cut out the backseat.
I'm still not putting it past you to have a few heffers up there one drunken night.

 

[Ratickle]

I'm an overkill kind of guy. I'd add a steel or aluminum u-channel about a foot long over the pin drilled area and glass that in to spread out the rod support area. A strong wood may be better to match flex, but definitely add support there.

I'd also add a couple more ribs. You'll be rafted up somewhere and a couple hefers will walk across your cover to get to some other boat. So, overkill becomes necessary...or a gun....

 

[Tomas Wallin]

It was raised to clear a motor that was previously in the boat.
I'd kind of like to keep it flush, with a very thin pad on top.

Do you have any pics with the hatch open or removed to see what has been done do raise it?

A friend of mine want's to to the same thing, that's why I'm asking.

 

[Dude! Sweet!]

If I do that, I might as well go with a three man standup.
My sawzall died, so I don't have a good way to cut out the backseat.
I'm still not putting it past you to have a few heffers up there one drunken night.

Awesome! That boat is going to be bad-ass as a 3 man boat! :biggrinjester:

 

[Buoy]

Do you have any pics with the hatch open or removed to see what has been done do raise it?

A friend of mine want's to to the same thing, that's why I'm asking.

I'll see what I can do.:sifone:

 

[Tomas Wallin]

Great!:cheers2:

 

[Buoy]

Tomas - when I bought the boat, it had some 3/4" lumber that was cut to fill the area between the lip the hatch would have rested on if it was set down inside.
I was previously a finish carpenter, so in my opinion, it was a little crude, and I wanted to make it look a bit better.
I cut new lumber, coated it with resin, installed those flush t-nuts with the lock spikes, and then covered them with a thin layer of foam (1/2"), and then wrapped over with vinyl. I placed SS trim over the top edge, and the bottom edge to finish it off, and so the hatch wouldn't wear through the vinyl.
THIS PROJECT IS NOT COMPLETE!!!
I wasn't 100% happy with the way the vinyl layed out on the lower edge, and I'll be recovering it - entirely due to me trying something new. I didn't even finish trimming off the lower edge of vinyl because I knew I was going to make a 2nd attempt.
I think it will give a look like the old classic race boats that had a bit of upholstery under the hatch when they had the side-by-side hatches.

 

[Buoy]

one more from the cockpit area to the backseat mount.