Which Connecting rods?

I'd love to use a set of Carillo's or olivers. Who is going to donate me a set? I just don't think a 650 hp motor need $2500 rods, and I can't afford them either. ;)

If you break a rod your going to spend way more than 1500 for a set of olivers!!
I have had Carillos fail. Olivers are doing just find no problems.:sifone:
 
The compstars are a really nice rod for the $
Whatever you do don't use titanium rods, they seem to fail for no reason.. :huh::smash::D
 

Attachments

  • 1212081443[1].jpg
    1212081443[1].jpg
    72.7 KB · Views: 20
650 hp or less 6000 rpm or less The stock 502 rods with polished beams, shot peened, and resized with new ARP bolts in them will work perfect.
 
Anything can fail if clearances are not fitted properly. The question here is what rod will best fit his application. Everyone has different budgets.....yes of course Oliver, Carrillo, and Crower are some of the best rods on the market and I have used a ton of them over the years. For this gentleman's horsepower range and price, Callies CompStar or Manley H-beams will fit the bill perfect. And most of all when set up correctly, will run for many, many years.
 
Don't be penny wise and pound foolish!

Dean is right on here!
When you consider what you will spend to take a stock set of even dimple big bolt GM forged rods to resize, new ARP bolts, polish and shot peen you will spend almost what a new set of lighter, much stronger H-Beams (Manley, Callies, Scat) will cost and you're way ahead in strength and reliability.
Raylar uses these H-beams up to 850HP with absolutly no failures! Remember also that generally when a rod fails you will usually loose a crankshaft and sometimes an entire block. Its not worth the gamble, go new H-beam rods and sleep peacefully at night!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
 
The compstars are a really nice rod for the $
Whatever you do don't use titanium rods, they seem to fail for no reason.. :huh::smash::D

Titanium is very much more fatigue resistant than steel. But if you as much as scratch it, you might as well feed the whole motor to the scrap furnace. A nick in a Ti connecting rod is a swift death sentence. They can easily be polished out.
 
Putting together a new motor over the winter and I am trying to decide which rods to use. I have a set of stock 502 rods with polished beams, shot peened, and resized with new ARP bolts in them. I can trade them and a couple of other spare parts I have laying around for a set of eagle H-beam rods brand new. Question is am I gaining anything going to the Eagles on a 650-700hp 515?
Thanks, Chad
hey if your looking for that 700hp, talk to DEAN about his ported intake and custom carb. I have the carb just had to hold off on the new intake cause Dean is building me a 1050hp 572 blower motor. next fall I am sending him my 509 to do the intake and maybe cam and see if everything is ok with it its been sitting for two years with about 50hours on it.I have about 670 hp now with the new carb , before it I had 650hp on a dyno. and it would be worth having him balance and do the machine work and assmble it , my buddy bought the twin motor to what I have from someone else and it blew with 5 hours :ack2:mine was apart when I bought it so I sent it to DEAN After talking to gerry knot right Dean helped him with his 1200s before he went to TURBINES:sifone: 1800HP:26:
 
Ultimate Duty Connecting Rods

Hope it's not to late to answer you question on rods. These rods are $880.00 they will take 1000 hp + american made, I beam, Save 50 grams over Oliver and about $450.00 on the resale level. You will save at least 100 grams over an H beam.


Call Howards Racing Components 920-233-5228 ask for Robert or John tell them I sent you.
 

Attachments

  • 004.jpg
    004.jpg
    63.4 KB · Views: 16
  • 005.jpg
    005.jpg
    24 KB · Views: 6
  • 006.JPG
    006.JPG
    119.4 KB · Views: 13
Back
Top