Wellcraft Nova Spyder Destruction/Reconstruction

[inbetween]

Nice project. Keep us posted on progress. We like lots of pics too. Those old Novas are WAY cool.

 

[26 Spyder]

Amen. You might want to check with some folks on the board here but there were some counter- rotating Alpha legs back in the day. They might have just been outboard race division lowers with no reverse, but someone here knows for sure. - Jeff

I know there are counter rotating Alphas available, I have been watching ebay for them as well. Almost scored a couple but somebody wanted them more than me! I could build one out of a std drive but cheaper to find a used one.
Essentially, it is just different lower internals. The clutch dog and gears where the clutch engages.
Last week I almost bought a pair of Alpha SS drives. They went higher than I wanted to pay. I still should have bought them....

 

[26 Spyder]

Back to the NACA ducts today and some dash panels...

My wax came in for the molds, After waxing the molds a few times and spraying PVA release on them I let them dry overnight. Today I brushed some white gel then laid glass on the molds. After a few hours I was ready to pop the parts off. Once I figured out the trick they came off easily! Air gun helped!
The parts are not perfect but they are what I need to get them grafted onto the hull. The next set should turn out better!

 

[26 Spyder]

Here is a preview of where they will be going, you should get the idea...
They will be cut down more and glassed in for the smooth look.

 

[26 Spyder]

My materials finally came in for the carbon fiber dash also!!!
Starting with the gauge panel I wanted to do a test run in case I messed up. Turns out I did ok but I still learned a few things for the next panels.

To keep the cost down I used a 3k plain weave material for the face and black fiberglass cloth to build the thickness. Since it is mainly cosmetic and only has to hold the gauges the strength is fine, it is still overkill for its purpose!
I am using a clear epoxy resin intended for carbon fiber & cosmetic applications but the strength is also superior to other resins.

Layout is done on a piece of glass (mirror) to keep it perfectly flat.
I used wax paper for the release between the part and glass.

 

[26 Spyder]

First I spread epoxy on the wax paper to the size of the material. Then carefully laid the carbon sheet out making sure it stayed squared up. I let the epoxy soak through, I then laid the black fiberglass mat on the stack and gently rolled out until saturated, applied more epoxy and 2 more layers of mat. I made sure to roll and squeege from the center out to remove excess resin.
Finally another sheet of wax paper and another glass plate.

 

[26 Spyder]

24 hours later I remove the plates and wax paper. Not too bad for the first try. There were some air bubbles on the carbon fiber side, by looking at my previous pictures I discovered why.
The wax paper made the epoxy fisheye before I got the material down. I have already done another panel and I spread the epoxy a little thicker and did not have the problem.

 

[phragle]

when we lay up flat carbon like that to make runner stiffeners, start with your flat surface, cover with wax, wax paper etc... lay down your cloth, then resin and squeegee the excess resin off, lay down wax paper another flat piece of whatever and put a lot of weight on it to form compression as it sets up.

 

[26 Spyder]

Not done yet! After a little trimming into shape we were ready for the next step, making it look pretty!
Step 2 is to lightly sand the panel face (& edges), then lay it out perfectly level. Then you mix another batch of epoxy and pour it on top, let it flow out, touch up a few bubbles and let it sit for another 24 hours.

 

[26 Spyder]

when we lay up flat carbon like that to make runner stiffeners, start with your flat surface, cover with wax, wax paper etc... lay down your cloth, then resin and squeegee the excess resin off, lay down wax paper another flat piece of whatever and put a lot of weight on it to form compression as it sets up.

Essentially that is what I did with the glass plate on top & bottom.

Here is a pic of the panel with wet epoxy during flow out, I have to wait 23 hours now.....
More pics tomorrow!

 

[Steve 1]

Carbon Panels I used to make them on a glass plate so I cold see the bottom side and Check alignment and wetout,also RainX is a good release for Glass tables.

 

[Davidmnc]

Essentially that is what I did with the glass plate on top & bottom.

Here is a pic of the panel with wet epoxy during flow out, I have to wait 23 hours now.....
More pics tomorrow!

Thank you for sharring..........WoW.........I may be learning things!!!!!!!! :huh: It looks great! :sifone:

 

[26 Spyder]

RainX is a good release for Glass tables.

I will have to give that a try...

 

[26 Spyder]

Here is a sneak peek of my gauges... Before Livorsi works their magic!
Like I said before, this is a budget project... I scored a set of Gaffrig/Livorsi gauges on ebay, some were in decent shape and some had clouded lenses.
Livorsi will be installing new lenses and rims to my set and make the look like new for a fraction of new cost! I also could have chosen to change the rim color but I stayed white since I already have a white speedo and 2 new tacs.
I will add color with bezels.
I will post pics when they return from Livorsi.

So, any of you with aged looking Gaffrig or Livorsi gauges can get them refurbished without having to buy all new.

 

[26 Spyder]

Gauge panel ready for gauges. The clear epoxy coating added depth to the carbon fiber. It is also UV protected and will not yellow or crack. I will try several different layouts before I cut the holes.
Now for the switch panels and ignition panel...

I will also be ordering some "silver carbon fiber" which is just aluminized material and some cool colored carbon fiber/kevlar material.

If you are interested in having your dash replaced send me a PM.
I would be more than happy to build a few more.


It looks much better in person. My camera did not get a good pic...

 

[phragle]

here's the CR alpha, 3 year warrenty covered even if you hit something with it.

http://www.sterndrive.cc/Merchant2/...eteCR&Category_Code=MercruiserAlphaSterndrive

 

[old377guy]

that SEI seems to be the answer

 

[26 Spyder]

I have seen those and installed a few. Not a bad price either. I have a few other reman suppliers as well.
Still looking to save a buck though...

 

[26 Spyder]

Update on the dash & gauges..

Special thanks to Fred & Todd at Livorsi Marine for their assistance in rebuilding my gauges. They were very detailed and went the extra mile to make sure all of the gauges matched. I had one bad gauge in the lot and they built a new one making sure all of the Logos matched.
I highly recommend their products and services!

Pictured is the 12 year old rebuilt gauges fresh from Livorsi, and soon to be carbon fiber switch panel...
Now I will be working on layout and cutting holes!

 

[old377guy]

looks great spyder, keep those photos coming - jeff