Website for Stainless marine???

[OldSchool]

CLASSIC Brownie. How are you doing these days? The Miami Show just wasn't the same this year without you holding court at the Stainless booth. Stopping there was the grownup's version of going to see Santa; you looked forward to it all year long.

Craig - Find what you need? I'm in the market for a transom pickup...

I agree Chuck. I had the pleasure of talking with Brownie yesterday. ALWAYS a pleasure my friend!! Good luck with your current project!!!


As far as finding what I need....I need exhaust.:willy_nilly: I've got one tube on one header that is leaking...Found one rusty plug last fall when I winterized. My Stellings headers were produced in 6/2001 and I've been told by them (as well as everyone else that I've asked) that they have outlasted how long they are expected to survive. That being said, my shoes wear evenly and it's my thought that fixing one leak is not an option and I don't want to risk bigger losses (engine) by patching it and having failure(s) somewhere else in the exhaust.

Stellings headers will cost $6000 per engine and $3,500 for tailpipes per side. $9,500/side X 2= $19,000:ack2::willy_nilly:

So, let's say that they are good for 8 years. $19,000 divided by 8=$2375 per year for bling and 30HP. I'm not too proud to say that it's out of the range of what I can spend. Yep, headers look and sound cool as chit, but boating is my passion, not shiny headers. :cheers2: there is also much talk around where I live that there will be some enforcement of noise laws this year. I really don't need to be dealing with that.

So, my plan is to get the 5" Stainless manifolds. Being a #6 boat and not wanting to drill new holes in the transom, I will need custom tailpipes to create the necessary height that is needed. Bling....nope. Functional....YES! ...and less than half of the cost with a likelyhood that they will last longer than the headers, at less than half of the cost.


Before anyone brings it up, I will say that I'm having the exhaust valve replaced that was getting water on it. Another risk that I'm willing to take.

 

[glh]

I agree Chuck. I had the pleasure of talking with Brownie yesterday. ALWAYS a pleasure my friend!! Good luck with your current project!!!


As far as finding what I need....I need exhaust.:willy_nilly: I've got one tube on one header that is leaking...Found one rusty plug last fall when I winterized. My Stellings headers were produced in 6/2001 and I've been told by them (as well as everyone else that I've asked) that they have outlasted how long they are expected to survive. That being said, my shoes wear evenly and it's my thought that fixing one leak is not an option and I don't want to risk bigger losses (engine) by patching it and having failure(s) somewhere else in the exhaust.

Stellings headers will cost $6000 per engine and $3,500 for tailpipes per side. $9,500/side X 2= $19,000:ack2::willy_nilly:

So, let's say that they are good for 8 years. $19,000 divided by 8=$2375 per year for bling and 30HP. I'm not too proud to say that it's out of the range of what I can spend. Yep, headers look and sound cool as chit, but boating is my passion, not shiny headers. :cheers2: there is also much talk around where I live that there will be some enforcement of noise laws this year. I really don't need to be dealing with that.

So, my plan is to get the 5" Stainless manifolds. Being a #6 boat and not wanting to drill new holes in the transom, I will need custom tailpipes to create the necessary height that is needed. Bling....nope. Functional....YES! ...and less than half of the cost with a likelyhood that they will last longer than the headers, at less than half of the cost.


Before anyone brings it up, I will say that I'm having the exhaust valve replaced that was getting water on it. Another risk that I'm willing to take.

Great choice this is what I have in DOI and Stainless worked with us all the way.

 

[OldSchool]

Great choice this is what I have in DOI and Stainless worked with us all the way.

Thanks GL. I remember that you had used them for DOI. Did you go with the custom tailpipes? Are they 5"? Do you have any pictures of the finished product?

Thanks in advance,
Craig

 

[Chris]

Order them with dry tails and they're going to sound exactly the same. Exactly.

You ran right next to Rob's Apache last year- same exhaust and dry all the way back until the little opening that introduces water in the last inch. Those 900 Chiefs sounded like 525's next to yours.

I had dry tails on old Crusader iron manifolds once- sounded like a top fuel dragster.

 

[Geronimo36]

Thanks GL. I remember that you had used them for DOI. Did you go with the custom tailpipes? Are they 5"? Do you have any pictures of the finished product?

Thanks in advance,
Craig

They'll make whatever you want Craig. You've seen the light, now head towards it and free yourself!!:bump:

I worked directly with Jerry on my setup. We tried to make the Gen III's but I just didn't have the room!!! So I went with the Gen II's with stepped and dry pipes. When the pipes came they lined up and fit perfectly..

I'm very happy with my new set and was happy with the set I had my Scarab which was on there for 10 years before I sold the boat! I can't say enough good about SM! :cheers2:

I agree on the dry pipe idea!!! I only have a 1/4" weep hole to keep the mufflers cool!:driving:

 

[OldSchool]

Frank,

That's good news on the longevity!


There wasn't enough room in between the engines to do the Gen III's??? Are they more bulky than the regulars? What centers are your engines on?

Dave @ MGD is doing all of the work. He's done quite a few of them and said that working with Jerry is good ...and easy.

 

[Geronimo36]

Frank,

That's good news on the longevity!


There wasn't enough room in between the engines to do the Gen III's??? Are they more bulky than the regulars? What centers are your engines on?

Dave @ MGD is doing all of the work. He's done quite a few of them and said that working with Jerry is good ...and easy.

I have very tight center's on my engines, only 33 1/2" apart and I think you need 34 1/2", the average is about 35" from what I remember...

When I had the CMI elbo tops they barely fit.. I had to jockey them around just to get them in. The Gen III's have bigger ports than the Gen II's (a good thing) so they're a little bit wider but probably not much wider than your Stellings. All Dave has to do is measure the distance between your crankshafts or propshafts and give that number to Jerry but I suspedt you're fine.... Mine were done that way in an attempt to bring the drives as close together as possible..

 

[OldSchool]

Got it. Thanks Frank. I'll measure that this weekend when I'm taking off the other three headers. I have no idea how far apart they are, but measuring that is one chore that Dave gave me to do.

The tailpipe holes in my transom are high, so I'll need to get some high risers so the chit can run downhill. :sifone:

I'm not sure if I'll run them dry or not. Like I said, they are threatening to crack down on noise this year (phucking no good politicians voted 43-1 after telling us that it wouldn't pass ) and I don't need the hassle. Dry or not, I am planning on having the tailpipes to be long enough so there is room to install mufflers if I have to. That beats the chit out of going to jail!!! They are talking $1000 and 30 days in the pokey for the second offense :cuss::cuss::cheers2:

 

[glh]

Thanks GL. I remember that you had used them for DOI. Did you go with the custom tailpipes? Are they 5"? Do you have any pictures of the finished product?

Thanks in advance,
Craig

We mocked-up with the information that the guys at Stainless forwarded to us and they made the pipes.

They are 5". The only issue we had was that the dumps at the end of the pipe were too restrictive at speeds above 120 and the pressures would spike we made the dump hole bigger and that took care of that.
We also connected both strainers for the pressures to be more uniform since the spikes tend to go back and forth between mills and added four (4) 10# release valve in the system. Believe me when you go above a certain speed stuff start happening leaving you scratching your melon!!! You feel your in a different world!!!

When I went to Pier57 researching for the rigging I noticed that Pair of Dice was running those and Woodsie said that it is a great choice to run those.

Here is POD's set up...

 

[glh]

Also go with braided lines as well as screwed in metal fittings, anything less will open you up to very preventable failures.

 

[Geronimo36]

Craig, just looking at the picture it visually looks like you'll have enough room but definitely best to measure. When I had my CMI's you couldn't even fit a finger between the primary tubes, nor could you take off the valve covers without completely removing the center headers. I'm not sure what you have, if the engines are short-deck or tall-deck but that slightly changes your centerline requirements. Short decks can have a tighter centerline.

The only thing I regret about the SM's was not being able to use the Gen III's as I would have gained some power with my blower engines.... Because I went with the Gen II's and the stepped pipes I didn't gain/loose anything compared to what I had.

 

[OldSchool]

They are tall decks. I appreciate the info Frank!:cheers2:

I'll measure them this weekend. Theoretically, the carb center bolt that bolts down the flame arrester will give me the correct measurement as well, won't it?

 

[Geronimo36]

It should. I measured from the center thru bolt on my water crossovers.

 

[old377guy]

Thanks GL. I remember that you had used them for DOI. Did you go with the custom tailpipes? Are they 5"? Do you have any pictures of the finished product?

Thanks in advance,
Craig

Just noticed you new avatar......crack me up!

 

[Geronimo36]

I had dry tails on old Crusader iron manifolds once- sounded like a top fuel dragster.

Yes, they sure do...

My favorite manifold was and has always been the older style Crusader manifolds. I've even seen some people make dry exhaust out fo them with a blocking plate and stainless pipe!! They make a little more power than the merc logs as well!!!

http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forums/showpost.php?p=70195&postcount=2

 

[OldSchool]

Just noticed you new avatar......crack me up!

:sifone::sifone:

 

[bajabob 718]

jerry made me dry exhuast for my boat and i use the same holes ,he did a great jop on mine . my bottons are 20years old . the tops he made them last years :cheers2:

 

[OldSchool]

I have very tight center's on my engines, only 33 1/2" apart and I think you need 34 1/2", the average is about 35" from what I remember...

I measured it this past weekend and removed all of the headers. 34.5 inches is the number.

Man...there's a ton of room in there when there's no exhaust in the way!!!!

 

[glh]

...there's a ton of room in there when there's no exhaust in the way!!!!

Same thing your underwear says...