Transom replacement question?

[rchevelle71]

OK,

So I am almost ready to dive into replacing the Transom on the Pantera.

I can dig up old threads about the actual transom replacement part, but first I need to get to the wood.

This boat has a splashwell(outboard) which it will no longer have once I am done, but thats another thread. I will need to cut the deck off to access the transom. I dont want to remove the whole deck, so i was thinking of removing it partially since I will need to modify the back section to remove the splashwell anyway.

What I want to do is cut the deck right around the vent area, and down into the area where the hatch is, remove it for the work, then splice it back in later. The reason for doing it here is the fact that there will be less visible glasswork since there is not much area around the vents anyway, and the inside part will only be visible when the hatch is open(even though I plan on having it damn near flawless before gel and paint), just less work to get it there. Not sure if this makes sense, but I was thinking of doing this at an angle(as shown in the attached pic), not sure it would make a difference, but just thought the splice may be stronger this way.

Am I totally off base? Has this been done? Is it a feasable thing to do, or would the experts cringe??

 

[glassdave]

yea thats totally feasible, since you have to do a bunch glasswork back there anyway. When working with fiberglass the possibilities are endless its pretty much up to your imagination and level of commitment. So i assume your converting to an I/O?

 

[rchevelle71]

yea thats totally feasible, since you have to do a bunch glasswork back there anyway. When working with fiberglass the possibilities are endless its pretty much up to your imagination and level of commitment. So i assume your converting to an I/O?

Thanks Dave, just wanted to make sure it was OK before I cut it, you can tell me how to fix it later:sifone:

NOT converting to an I/O, but replacing a damp transom, and closing off the splashwell since it will no longer be needed, may be going with a bracket with swim platform instead of just the jackplate. I will be raising the transom 5", capping the splashwell, adding knees to the transom, and we'll see how the stringers are once I get in there. I need to remove the motor, cut off the 1/4" Aluminum plate that is covering the entire transom(even welded and wrapped up into the splashwell), the boat was originally a twin outboard, then I will measure out where to cut, and go for it. Probably be a few weekends still before I even get to the cutting. What are your thoughts on the angle cut vs. straight, does this make more sense, or do I just hang around with too many engineers?

Rick

 

[jeffswav]

I am not a glass expert, but I play one on TV. :rofl: I am working on mine right now, I am sure you have seen the post. Be sure the place you cut has plenty of surface area to make the boat as strong at it was before. I know mine is really thick on the area around the vents. Almost like that area takes more stress than a solid piece. Does that make sence?

 

[rchevelle71]

I am not a glass expert, but I play one on TV. :rofl: I am working on mine right now, I am sure you have seen the post. Be sure the place you cut has plenty of surface area to make the boat as strong at it was before. I know mine is really thick on the area around the vents. Almost like that area takes more stress than a solid piece. Does that make sence?

Sure, that makes sense, one other reson for doing it in this area is that I will have access to it thru the venthole, and also easy access to the backside under the hatch area without removing any interior. Since this area is not cosmetic in any way on the inside, i can make it as thick as I want.

 

[Offshore Ginger]

Rick is there any chance of posting some pics of the motorwell and adding the knees is a great idea .:bump:

 

[glassdave]

Thanks Dave, just wanted to make sure it was OK before I cut it, you can tell me how to fix it later:sifone:

LOL


yes thats fine to cut at an angle like that. Not sure you gain any advantage in strength but i understand the thought process. Also for lumber in the transom you might want to go with three layers of half inch rather then the usual two layers of three quarter.

 

[rchevelle71]

LOL


yes thats fine to cut at an angle like that. Not sure you gain any advantage in strength but i understand the thought process. Also for lumber in the transom you might want to go with three layers of half inch rather then the usual two layers of three quarter.

I will be going 3 layers 1/2, just found a supplier of marine plywood local yesterday(I am sure there are a bunch in south fl though), gotta give a call when I get closer to putting it back in for pricing.

 

[rchevelle71]

Rick is there any chance of posting some pics of the motorwell and adding the knees is a great idea .:bump:

This is the closest thing I have here on the work comp. I can get more, whats your idea?

 

[Offshore Ginger]

This is the closest thing I have here on the work comp. I can get more, whats your idea?

I have done more then my share of motorwells in the past and the reason i asked for the pic is to get a better idea of what you will be working with . I understand that you are going to raise the transom 5" and in your first post you stated that you no longer will have a motorwell and with that in mind does that mean that you are going to custom fabricate that whole area by glassing it in ?

 

[insanity]

Something to consider would be to 'fill' the motorwell and shape/smooth things prior to cutting everything out/off. Then you can pull a mold from it, and when it comes time to put everything back together, pop a part from your mold you created and you would be good to go, in theory your new part would fill in everything you cut out.

Are you going to move the rear seat back after you fill in the motorwell?

 

[J-Bonz]

Something to consider would be to 'fill' the motorwell and shape/smooth things prior to cutting everything out/off. Then you can pull a mold from it, and when it comes time to put everything back together, pop a part from your mold you created and you would be good to go, in theory your new part would fill in everything you cut out.

Are you going to move the rear seat back after you fill in the motorwell?

Not a bad idea...

 

[jeffswav]

OG and Dave will give you good advice. If you go by what they tell you that should keep you on track. I would take some very detailed pictures. I was thinking that area around the vents might not be good place to cut because of less surface area when you put it back together. It may make a weak spot. However I am no expert it might be fine to cut it there.

 

[rchevelle71]

I have done more then my share of motorwells in the past and the reason i asked for the pic is to get a better idea of what you will be working with . I understand that you are going to raise the transom 5" and in your first post you stated that you no longer will have a motorwell and with that in mind does that mean that you are going to custom fabricate that whole area by glassing it in ?

YES,

My thought was to make panels as I go, and glass them in.

 

[rchevelle71]

Something to consider would be to 'fill' the motorwell and shape/smooth things prior to cutting everything out/off. Then you can pull a mold from it, and when it comes time to put everything back together, pop a part from your mold you created and you would be good to go, in theory your new part would fill in everything you cut out.

Are you going to move the rear seat back after you fill in the motorwell?

Good idea,

I have never done a mold, and not sure that this needs one. Basically it will be the same structure, just with the motorwell capped off 5" up rom where it is now on top of the new transom.

I will eventually move the back seat back in another episode, but that will require some restructuring. Most important to me is to get the new transom in, re gelcoat the repair/modified areas, and paint to match. I want to be back on the water by summer, so the opening up of the cockpit will be put off a year or so, until I have the coin to redo the entire interior..

 

[Offshore Ginger]

YES,

My thought was to make panels as I go, and glass them in.

Good idea & when i worked at Skater doing most of the motor wells for trip outboards on 32's i would use panels ( panel ) made out of 2 layers of glass to fabricate the area for the wells , cut them to size and then fit , re glassing over the entire area giving it more beef and structural integrity ,and if you go to my thread titled the Old Don Q Rum and look at the lids / baffles i made for the gas tank's this should give you a good idea of the panels im talking about .

 

[Buoy]

Good idea,

I have never done a mold, and not sure that this needs one. Basically it will be the same structure, just with the motorwell capped off 5" up rom where it is now on top of the new transom.

I will eventually move the back seat back in another episode, but that will require some restructuring. Most important to me is to get the new transom in, re gelcoat the repair/modified areas, and paint to match. I want to be back on the water by summer, so the opening up of the cockpit will be put off a year or so, until I have the coin to redo the entire interior..

Rick, this is just me, but, as long as you're opening her up, I'd do the whole "she-bangs" in one shot.
Cut it right in front of the cockpit, pull the whole inner-liner of the cockpit with the deck/gunwales. This will open up the floor and give you the chance to replace the gas tank at the same time.
The one thing that worries me about my boat is the gas tank. I have NO reason to be worried, and everything seems fine, but I know that if the tank goes South, I'm in for one helluva mess.
I remember reading a magazine article posted from "back-in-the-day" about the fact that there is no access to the rank on the 24 Pantera, and it's just stuck in my head.

 

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

My suggestion would be to cut the vertical surfaces on the inside. I would try not to mess up the areas of the deck from the rail up including the top horizontal section. If you can make your joint/ blend repair in the inside vertical it can potentially be covered by an upholstered panel. It can then retain the original lines and profile as it does know.

 

[rchevelle71]

Good idea & when i worked at Skater doing most of the motor wells for trip outboards on 32's i would use panels ( panel ) made out of 2 layers of glass to fabricate the area for the wells , cut them to size and then fit , re glassing over the entire area giving it more beef and structural integrity ,and if you go to my thread titled the Old Don Q Rum and look at the lids / baffles i made for the gas tank's this should give you a good idea of the panels im talking about .

Cool,

I read the thread, but have not seen it lately, I will go back and look. When you say 2 layers of glass, thats it?? I was thinking of using some type of core? I would like some strengh to it, since inevitably someone will walk on it to get to the bracket/swim platform. Also considering something like this vs. just the knees. This was done on a 24 Sonic twin outboard recently.

 

[rchevelle71]

Rick, this is just me, but, as long as you're opening her up, I'd do the whole "she-bangs" in one shot.
Cut it right in front of the cockpit, pull the whole inner-liner of the cockpit with the deck/gunwales. This will open up the floor and give you the chance to replace the gas tank at the same time.
The one thing that worries me about my boat is the gas tank. I have NO reason to be worried, and everything seems fine, but I know that if the tank goes South, I'm in for one helluva mess.
I remember reading a magazine article posted from "back-in-the-day" about the fact that there is no access to the rank on the 24 Pantera, and it's just stuck in my head.

I agree,

But time and $$$ over ride that. I am just sick of having to fix up stress cracks every time I run her hard. I know not all of this is from the bad Transom, but I am absolutely sure MOST of it is. I believe my tank has already been replaced at one point, as the area that would have to be cut out of the back seat area to get it out was all hacked up when I got the boat, I fixed it up when I had the boat torn down the first time. I also plan on repainting the whole boat(a more manly color this time:sifone, and replacing the interior eventually, if I waited for the $$ to show up to do that, I would be 2 summers lost. If I cut into it now, and keep my head in it, I may be able to salvage Memorial day, and the entire summer. Last summer we had weeks at a time that the Atlantic was 2 feet or less, and I could run all day wide open with the occasional throttle back, I missed the beginning of that due to switching out motors, I dont want to miss that this year.:driving: