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Trailer hitch
- Thread starter danh63
- Start date
Davidmnc
Contributor
Have you thought about redoing the toung on the enclosed trailer? Kind of meet it in the middle. I am not a big fan of huge drops. It puts a lot of pressure on the hitch. Another thing that could help would be a Torklift Superhitch.
http://www.hitchsource.com/trailer-hitches-torklift-superhitch-c-24_157.html
http://www.hitchsource.com/trailer-hitches-torklift-superhitch-c-24_157.html
Davidmnc
Contributor
Sure, the draw bar you built looks great, and strong. But if the receiver it self can not handle the additional load of such a long drop. You got nothing. IMHO
MacGyver
Charter Member
Take your old hitch and mount it in the receiver tube. Now measure from the center of the ball to the receiver tube. Now do the same thing with your custom hitch. If the distance is any longer with your custom hitch, you are asking for big troubles. Especially if your receiver tube is already bent.
danh63
New member
The arm was so long with my original hitch and I hauled some heavy machinery with it and it did bend it slightly. We put the truck on a frame machine and got it back to good.
I will do that measurement but I am willing to bet it is going to be alot shorter distance with the custom hitch
I will do that measurement but I am willing to bet it is going to be alot shorter distance with the custom hitch
Throttle Fever
New member
Reciever
Agreed. Had a crew cab Ford with 8 inches of lift and 38"s. Have the same set up your uncle built (nice job). After a year of towing, was doing some maintance and found the two front mounting tabs broke free from the reciever frame and the middle set cracked (only 6 mounting points total). I up graded to a 16,000 lb 2" reciever. There is also a 3" reciever that is rated at 20,000 lbs. The standard class 5 10,000 lb reciever is not going to cut it for long, promise... I got lucky and didn't loose a load or worse off kill anyone.
Agreed. Had a crew cab Ford with 8 inches of lift and 38"s. Have the same set up your uncle built (nice job). After a year of towing, was doing some maintance and found the two front mounting tabs broke free from the reciever frame and the middle set cracked (only 6 mounting points total). I up graded to a 16,000 lb 2" reciever. There is also a 3" reciever that is rated at 20,000 lbs. The standard class 5 10,000 lb reciever is not going to cut it for long, promise... I got lucky and didn't loose a load or worse off kill anyone.
US1Fountain
Charter Member
Why not make a couple of bars to go diagonally from the bottom of the mount and up & outwards to the trucks frame? A 3 point hitch. That'll address the push/pull forces from the trailer and also prevent the sideways forces, which I haven't seen addressed here yet. Can't beat a triangle design. 
DAREDEVIL
Banned
It just looks weak , Sorry !!
MarylandMark
Charter Member
Why not make a couple of bars to go diagonally from the bottom of the mount and up & outwards to the trucks frame? A 3 point hitch. That'll address the push/pull forces from the trailer and also prevent the sideways forces, which I haven't seen addressed here yet. Can't beat a triangle design.
Good info!
insanity
New member
Why not make a couple of bars to go diagonally from the bottom of the mount and up & outwards to the trucks frame? A 3 point hitch. That'll address the push/pull forces from the trailer and also prevent the sideways forces, which I haven't seen addressed here yet. Can't beat a triangle design.
I did that when I raised my old truck. I added a cross-member with mounting tabs and two bars that went to the bottom of the drop hitch.
danh63
New member
I don't want my hitch on all the time so that wouldn't work for me. I will have to crawl under there and inspect the receiver. Might have to come up with some ideas for adding a little strength to that. I rarely tow anything very heavy at all but would rather be safe than sorry
US1Fountain
Charter Member
Don't have to be mounted permamently, but with pins just like your reciever. I see this quit often on extreme lowered hitches.
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