Headlines
Trailer hitch
- Thread starter danh63
- Start date
Just far enough that your trailer coupler won't interfere with anything.
The shorter the distance the better - the smaller the moment arm, the less induced stress.
What do you mean by building? Are there not any available load-certified ones out there?
I'd hate to find myself in an accident situation with a home-made hitch.
The shorter the distance the better - the smaller the moment arm, the less induced stress.
What do you mean by building? Are there not any available load-certified ones out there?
I'd hate to find myself in an accident situation with a home-made hitch.
danh63
New member
I have a 6" lift and 37's and can't really find one that will adjust low enough. The one I have now is close but not far enough down. My Uncle is doing most of the fab work and it is almost the same as the one that I bought except for a few more holes to adjust it down lower. It is almost down and I'll post up some pictures when finished. I have towed some heavy equipment and it bent my receiver down a little and we thing that my current hitch sticking out so far was the reason for this and wanted to shorten the new one. So far we have come up with about 5"inches from the receiver
There's a reason you can't find one low enough. Your truck is too high for what you want to do. But I know that doesn't help you. So you have two choices beyond a lower truck and the right hitch. The first would be to consult an engineer. The second would be to do some "Amish Engineering". By that, I mean build it so heavy that it has no potential for failure. if you're concerned about receiver horizontal length, it's not heavy enough.
I know this isn't what you started asking, but we don't wantto read about you in the obits. Ask Jeremy- he posted about a "custom" drawbar for his 46 Cig a few monts ago. Built for him by a professional. Frightening. I'm just glad he posted a pic.
I know this isn't what you started asking, but we don't wantto read about you in the obits. Ask Jeremy- he posted about a "custom" drawbar for his 46 Cig a few monts ago. Built for him by a professional. Frightening. I'm just glad he posted a pic.
The simple fact is that there are prescribed DOT limits on drawbars and hitches, and that's the limiting factor in your search.
Even if you build the ultimate, indestructible receiver that's low enough, you have now increased the moment arm such that you could potentially be past the limits of your hitch and its mounting bolts.
Even if you build the ultimate, indestructible receiver that's low enough, you have now increased the moment arm such that you could potentially be past the limits of your hitch and its mounting bolts.
Trim'd Up
New member
There's the issue. You said you already bent your reciever from tongue weight on a long draw bar. Now your gonna extend the draw bar and have an even greater bending moment, but this time it will be from braking and accelerating ILO of tongue weight. I think you need to do something with your receiver least at the very.
I have no problem making a home made hitch if it is done right. I have built several myself, but I used to build the coupler pockets for locomotives (basically a locomotive receiver hitch) and I am an engineer.
danh63
New member
No Im not making it stick out farther I am going the other way, shortening it. The drop is what I am making longer and it will have a better gusset to make up for the longer drop. I bent it I believe hell for all I know it could have been that way from the factory, I think the arm coming out of the receiver is too long. I have never seen one sticking out his far. My thinking is that gives the trailer too much leverage so that is why I want it shorter
You're thinking is along the right lines for sure. Shorter (in both directions) is preferred.
The distance out from the hitch affects how much load is transferred from toungue weight.
But more importantly, the distance down affects how much load is transferred from acceleration and braking - which will be at least an order of magnitude more than tongue weight will ever be and is the typical failure mode in hitch-related failures.
The distance out from the hitch affects how much load is transferred from toungue weight.
But more importantly, the distance down affects how much load is transferred from acceleration and braking - which will be at least an order of magnitude more than tongue weight will ever be and is the typical failure mode in hitch-related failures.
wannabe
New member
Dan63- Your truck is still to tall. Your entire hitch will rip off if the bar doesn't break. I know you don't want to go back to a lower truck but with a 6 inch lift and 37 inch tires you are a good 8-10 inches higher than stock. If 5 inches doesn't do it than your asking for trouble.
What kind of truck and how big a boat?
Wannabe
What kind of truck and how big a boat?
Wannabe
MattBMiller
New member
danh63
New member
The boat trailer is fine at the lowest setting I have now, it my enclosed trailer that is nose high, but not by alot.
The bar shouldn't break it is solid 2x2. It's only a 25 Outlaw. The truck is a Dodge 2500 CTD
The gusset I am making is going all the way down instead of just a couple inches down like the current one
The bar shouldn't break it is solid 2x2. It's only a 25 Outlaw. The truck is a Dodge 2500 CTD
The gusset I am making is going all the way down instead of just a couple inches down like the current one
MattBMiller
New member
How much vertical drop do you need? How heavy is the trailer?
It's at least 50% heavier than what you think. Everyone else's is.
Seriously, people grossly underestimate the total weight they're towing. It stems from the manufacturer's under-estimation of weight on the spec sheets. And goes downhill from there. Everyone should run their boat across a scale at least once. It's an eye-opener.
Agree. I about pooped myself when I looked at the ticket.
Similar threads
