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Stringer Replacement Harris - materials, process, options........

Vertical plywood is most common. There are numerous variations from there. What type of clothe, Polyester or epoxy. I am using West system epoxy on my project with some trick cloth.
 
HiZ said:
Ok, got that.
So, what's the deal with fabricating the new stringers?
How, per say is the best way.
Plywood lamination. put in with the seams perpendicular to the hull?
Stacked solid wood?
Hardwood laminations.
What's the best way, technique
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Ona fun boat like this, i would cut the tops off and use transom pour and fill them up, cap them and good to go !!!!!!
 
Artie I tend to side with DD here as a possible course of action. Given the age and value of the boat a "band aid" is worth considering.
 
Anyway, no Fighting on this place!
So, what's the play on the Seacast, talked to the dealer and going to get some samples over here!
 
This boat spends most days cruising the local river here in no wake zones.
Maybe some tubing for his kids now and then.
So, not an abused area
 
HiZ said:
This boat spends most days cruising the local river here in no wake zones.
Maybe some tubing for his kids now and then.
So, not an abused area
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U be 100% fine with that stuff !!!!!!

I would have no problem using it on my raceboat , i seen how it works and the results, 100% perfect .
Done right, no problems at all, u can drill holes and even screw into it with no isues. :cheers2:

Offcoarse u can also spend 10K + to fix it ,,but i don't think its worth that for what u need done.
 
If it were some soft spots in the transom, I'd certainly consider the transom pour repair. But, stringers are not that hard of a replacement job. With the prep work he's already done, it could be complete in a week if it was hit hard.

But, thanks for fixing this thread. The discussions we have here are for everyone to assist with using their experience. And we have some outstanding experience with glass on this board.

Remember when almost all builders used to brag about straight grain Douglas Fir as their full-length stringers?
 
Here's a product from Arjay tech.

Data Sheet

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Product Code: 6011
Product Name: Ceramic Pourable Compound

Description: ARJAY formulates its Ceramic Pourable Compound with premium polyester resins and high strength ceramic spheres resulting in high tensile and flexural strength. This lightweight compound is ideal for filling large volumes where strength and rigidity are major concerns. The Ceramic Pourable Compound mixes and pours easily from the 5-gallon pail.

Features:

Excellent rigidity and strength
Formulated with premium resins
Low exotherm
Mixes easily
Pumpable or pourable
Excellent stability

Uses:

Filling large volumes

General purpose filler
Radius compound
Structural applications where high compressive strength is required

Viscosity Ranges: Viscosity (m) tests performed on Brookfield DVI HB T-C at 77 deg F.



rpm mMIN cps mMAX cps

2 70,000 92,000
20 16,000 28,000


Gel Properties:
Sample mass is 150 g initiated with 1.5% with DDM-9 MEKP @ 77 deg F
Gel Time: 18 - 24 min
Interval: 20 - 28 min
Total: 38 - 52 min

Peak Exotherm: 150 - 180 º F

Product Specifications:
Color and odor: Gray with styrene odor
Physical appearance: thick liquid
Weight per gallon: 7.1 - 7.3 lbs/gal
Uncured stability: 3 to 4 months (depending on storage)
 
slowride33 said:
so I won't see you guys out cutting white caps on winnebago??:driving:
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SlowRide, You really will not see me cutting much of anything on this vessel.
Assisted departure and material specialist, it's mostly on the North end of the Wolf. Up on the NORTH end!
 
How far forward to the engine stringers go? Just to that bulkhead where the bilge pump/Diet Pepsi can is?

There is also something pretty slick I saw on a Ship Shape tv episode, a modular foam/stringer system that makes replacing stringers pretty easy. I came across them the other day while looking for something else and now can't remember what they were called. You could probably use those, and just epoxy a plywood cap to hold the motor mount lags, then cover the whole thing in a couple layers of biax and be good to go.
 
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