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Speedmaster vs Bravo vs TRS 35'-38' boat.
- Thread starter inbetween
- Start date
phragle
Charter Member
Nope...couple possibilities have drifted past, but Im no really looking.... If something around 24-27' single pops up I would look, but not actively searching.
fund razor
Founding Member
I thought you meant Phragle too... because he said something about 4footitis.
I actually thought about selling mine. She will never be able to go on an offshore boat again with her back and neck. And it's running perfectly.
I actually thought about selling mine. She will never be able to go on an offshore boat again with her back and neck. And it's running perfectly.
fund razor
Founding Member
Now that I think about it, I should keep it. 
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Adam if your 500hp range Go Bravo, If your 800 hp go #6.
inbetween
New member
Still looking. Found a couple cigarettes we want to look at, but nothing for sure yet. Most everything in our price range has TRSs. Not sure I want TRSs.
inbetween
New member
Thanks Jim. I'd feel good about #6 reliability, but those boats are generally or of our budget. Still looking though. What's the reliability of the Merc 1000 SC?
jrdonnellyjr
New member
B-max drives
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Just like TRS many components are nla
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
I have a TRS boat, I also collect spare drives. I have all the tools to work on them. Problem is fewer and fewer parts are available. Konrad offers a replacement drive.
An old TRS freshwater boat can be a good find. Saltwater that old is trouble.
You can spend once for a #6 boat. Or you can keep spending on an obsolete drive. In the end most obsolete drive boats get converted.
Back to size of boat and power you seek. 500 is in a 35 you can possibly be happy with TRS . A 38 with 800. Everything but a 6 is a compromise.
I dispute Ratickles claim that TRS is good to 750. I say 500 is its limit. I personally know a 35 Cafe with TRS and 675hp can twist propshafts at will.
I find no pleasure in a power and drive combo you have to nurse around. Any boat you cannot run WOT with out exploding drives is not worth having.
Budget should limit the size of your boat choice. The bigger the boat the more power you need to have fun.
My guess is 70mph costs X to care for
a 80mph costs 2X to care for
a 90 mph boat 4X to care for and so on.
In round numbers of course and IMO
An old TRS freshwater boat can be a good find. Saltwater that old is trouble.
You can spend once for a #6 boat. Or you can keep spending on an obsolete drive. In the end most obsolete drive boats get converted.
Back to size of boat and power you seek. 500 is in a 35 you can possibly be happy with TRS . A 38 with 800. Everything but a 6 is a compromise.
I dispute Ratickles claim that TRS is good to 750. I say 500 is its limit. I personally know a 35 Cafe with TRS and 675hp can twist propshafts at will.
I find no pleasure in a power and drive combo you have to nurse around. Any boat you cannot run WOT with out exploding drives is not worth having.
Budget should limit the size of your boat choice. The bigger the boat the more power you need to have fun.
My guess is 70mph costs X to care for
a 80mph costs 2X to care for
a 90 mph boat 4X to care for and so on.
In round numbers of course and IMO
inbetween
New member
How's the parts and service availability for a B-Max?
inbetween
New member
We are currently considering a #6 boat that needs some work. Can 900hp be reliable as an every day boat? Also, has a blown drive. Dry sump 6 that broke the pump driveshaft and toasted all the gears and bearings. Parts are EXPENSIVE for the #6! Is this a regular occurence?
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Buy a boat that is operational. A non running boat is asking for trouble. Its hard enough to have good luck from a running boat.
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
I guess my last opinion on the non-running boat would be a bit different than Jim's. If:
1. The non-running boat is priced to where a good mechanic can be paid to repair it and you are still at, or below, actual resale value.
2. All of the things not in working order check out okay by a reputable surveyor.
And detune the 900HP. Depending on how the HP is achieved, (boost, compression, rpm, etc.), you are looking at fuel issues almost everywhere on the water and rebuilds way too often for most family runners.
1. The non-running boat is priced to where a good mechanic can be paid to repair it and you are still at, or below, actual resale value.
2. All of the things not in working order check out okay by a reputable surveyor.
And detune the 900HP. Depending on how the HP is achieved, (boost, compression, rpm, etc.), you are looking at fuel issues almost everywhere on the water and rebuilds way too often for most family runners.
fund razor
Founding Member
I spent around $50,000 extra learning this. He's right.
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Buying a non running boat is like playing rolette. Are you feeling lucky?
Why didn't owner fix it? Cause his wrench said shake it loose? Its worth more running why not fix it to sell it running?
Maybe it's not running cause Its been patched back together so many times owner gave up? Find you bought a can of worms.
When did it last run properly? Last week , Last year, last owner, never since last rebuild, anybody really know?
The only exception in my mind to buy a non running boat is if you plan to buy new engine/ drive packages.
Why didn't owner fix it? Cause his wrench said shake it loose? Its worth more running why not fix it to sell it running?
Maybe it's not running cause Its been patched back together so many times owner gave up? Find you bought a can of worms.
When did it last run properly? Last week , Last year, last owner, never since last rebuild, anybody really know?
The only exception in my mind to buy a non running boat is if you plan to buy new engine/ drive packages.
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