Props spinning in VS. out

I always thought it was the other way around. Spinning in creates stern life and out bow lift. Thats why on mostly all staggered step boats the props spin in cause you dont need the bow lift. On our Gladiator staggered and step they turn in. On out flat bottom Sutphen they only have them turning in for race set-up but you would run them out for pleasure (swtiching this winter). On our side by side stepped Hustler the props spun out cause the boat had too much stern lift in the hull.
 
Jim,

My post was just for a bravo type drive. It does not make sence for a 3,4,5, or 6. There you would have to swap the lowers on an old style 3,4,5 and 6 and the whole drive on a 6a.

If you want to switch rotation on a bravo just swap the lowers because they are used to running in a clockwise direction or counter clockwise. The upper will be fine because it has not run that much in rev.

It is a little less work to do besides filling the drive oil.

pat W

p.s. do not forget to drain it first.
 
IMO, If something breaks from changing the rotation on a bravo drive, it was going to break soon anyway.
 
I have heard of guys swapping drives from side to side to "even" out the wear on the upper gears. Anyone do that?

My drives turn out, turning in didn't do too much if anything that I remember. May try it again if I could get 1-2 mph.
 
I have heard of guys swapping drives from side to side to "even" out the wear on the upper gears. Anyone do that?

My drives turn out, turning in didn't do too much if anything that I remember. May try it again if I could get 1-2 mph.

Shifter has a point,but I haven't fallen victim to it. On pleasure boat I would swap the rotation after a couple hundred hours.
 
Pat, I guess from your post you have seen the pinion gear fail after swapping rotation?

On a big power set up they get gone through regularly any way.
 
Spinning in creates more bow lift and also the rooster will go toward the center more and almost create one rooster as gets it farther back. Your results sound pretty typical for changing from spinning in to spinning out.

That's the theory I suscribe to.

My boat is a little over 1 mph faster with them turning in.
 
If you visualize your boat cutting a vee through the water and the props running on the vee. Props spinning in will attempt to walk down the vee (bow lifting) and will give a narrower stance to the boat, kind of feels like being on a rail. Props spinning out the props want to walk up the vee (stern lifting) and give a wider more stable stance. That seems true particularly on straight vee bottom hulls.

Docking with the sticks reversed; shut off the non power steering engine and cut the confusion in half. Dock it like a single until you change the cables.

BT :sifone:
 
On my old 320 turning in was about 1mph faster but it handled far worse. It porpoised badly, even with almost no trim, and wanted to fall of the pad constantly. Then again that boat tended to fall off the pad anyway. Never did like that boat. I would rather run my 24 outlaw in the rough than the 320, at least you know what the 24 is going to do.
 
On my old 320 turning in was about 1mph faster but it handled far worse. It porpoised badly, even with almost no trim, and wanted to fall of the pad constantly. Then again that boat tended to fall off the pad anyway. Never did like that boat. I would rather run my 24 outlaw in the rough than the 320, at least you know what the 24 is going to do.


It fell off the pad turning out ?

A friend of mine had the same boat, and I got to
experience that (falling off the pad) while driving:eek: when he had them in,
switched them to out, and it behaved much better.
( and didn't fall off the pad)
 
Jim,

If you want to switch rotation on a bravo just swap the lowers because they are used to running in a clockwise direction or counter clockwise. The upper will be fine because it has not run that much in rev.


If your going to try different prop rotations on a Bravo the safest thing for the drives would be to swap the drives from side to side, and if you like it, then switch the shifter cables.

Reason being(like shifter pointed to) is that your loading your lower shafts and gears in an opposite direction, causing un-needed stress to the parts. As far as the upper gears go, your now loading the opposite gear that never had a load on it so the gear would be ok, but your still spinning the clutch shaft in the opposite direction, also causing stress on that shaft. In early IMCO drives(like I currently run) IMCO used helicut gears with welded floors, and they only weld one gear in each drive(1 top,1 bottom), so switching rotation with just the shifters can cause gear failure.

I have been slowly upgrading my drives, and deal with AAron and Jason at Max Machine Worx. Very smart guys, answer all my questions, and sell good parts. Just my $.02

LE
 
It fell off the pad turning out ?

A friend of mine had the same boat, and I got to
experience that (falling off the pad) while driving:eek: when he had them in,
switched them to out, and it behaved much better.
( and didn't fall off the pad)

It was much much worse turning them in. It was barely driveable. But it would occasionally do the same with them turning out with 3 blades.
 
I tried them both ways. Turning in gives me a bit more speed but actually a bit less stability. THis hulls handles extrimely well in the rough, so turning in really isn't an issue.
Reverse docking is a bit easier turning out. But since I could use a little bow lift with out using the drives for lift, I will keep them turning in.

Thanks for all the input.
 
I tried them both ways. Turning in gives me a bit more speed but actually a bit less stability. THis hulls handles extrimely well in the rough, so turning in really isn't an issue.
Reverse docking is a bit easier turning out. But since I could use a little bow lift with out using the drives for lift, I will keep them turning in.

Thanks for all the input.


Something I've found out by experimenting, is that
if you leave the drives trimmed slightly positive,
the docking maneuverability is slightly better
than if you have them in the full down position.
 
It was much much worse turning them in. It was barely driveable. But it would occasionally do the same with them turning out with 3 blades.

My 320 handles great, but it is an 86, a little different then the ES series, a little more running surface, I have hard time getting the bow up, I can trim it to the moon and the bow is down, boat rides very level. I am spinning out now, so.. if I spin them in I should be able to get the bow up right?
 
My 320 handles great, but it is an 86, a little different then the ES series, a little more running surface, I have hard time getting the bow up, I can trim it to the moon and the bow is down, boat rides very level. I am spinning out now, so.. if I spin them in I should be able to get the bow up right?

Very different boat.
 
I missed your question full force. Yes I would think you should get more bow lift form turning them in. My 320 had more than enough bow lift anyway, but turning them in it was definately higher out of the water.
 
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