MarylandMark
Charter Member
Good Job CP!
Headlines
Powdercoat Questions
- Thread starter ThruHull
- Start date
Good Job CP!
jmoore32fever
New member
Whoever owned my boat before me had all the stainless powder coated bad thing is most of it is all flaking off what's the best way to remove all of it
planetwarmer
New member
Powder coating is extremely difficult to remove. You really need to use a chemical stripper (methylene chloride). Air craft stripper doesn't really have enough ME to strip pc well, it really just turns to goo. If you do use aircraft stripper, you will have to apply,wash, reapply, wash, and reapply, wash, and so on! Sandblasting pc usually results in pitting the metal before it removes all of the pc.
The reason for everyone's trouble on this thread is either improper prep, or the wrong powder.
The most commonly used powders that I have seen withstand temps of around 300 deg f after they have been oven cured (which usually takes place between 375 to 400 deg f). The stock headers may have exceed that temp causing the powder to break down over time. If all of the parts are still doing fine except for the exhaust, and both of the manifolds are doing the same thing then that is most likely the problem.
There are high-temp powders available that are good for up to 1000 deg f. I have never seen that shade of purple though.
Epoxies are good for frames, indoor applications, and anywhere there are no UV rays. Epoxies do have excellent chemical resistance, however will turn ashy over time If they are exposed to UV light. TGIC is a great powder for most applications. I prefer to use TGICs for almost all applications.
These are the steps I use to Powder coat, and have had great success.
1.Strip the part
2.Sand blast the part with aluminum oxide [this gives the powder a good "bite" on the metal]
3.Blow off the part
4.Spray the part with iron phosphate [this helps with adhesion and acts as a light cleaner].
5.Prebake the part at 425 for 30 minutes to outgas the metal [this opens the pores of the metal and releases trapped contaminates such as oil and moisture]
6.Coat the part with powder [the part looks like it is covered in velvet at this point]
7.Bake the part at the powder's manufacturer specs [usually 375 to 385 for 15 to 20 minutes after the part itself has reached the desired temperature]
The reason for everyone's trouble on this thread is either improper prep, or the wrong powder.
The most commonly used powders that I have seen withstand temps of around 300 deg f after they have been oven cured (which usually takes place between 375 to 400 deg f). The stock headers may have exceed that temp causing the powder to break down over time. If all of the parts are still doing fine except for the exhaust, and both of the manifolds are doing the same thing then that is most likely the problem.
There are high-temp powders available that are good for up to 1000 deg f. I have never seen that shade of purple though.
Epoxies are good for frames, indoor applications, and anywhere there are no UV rays. Epoxies do have excellent chemical resistance, however will turn ashy over time If they are exposed to UV light. TGIC is a great powder for most applications. I prefer to use TGICs for almost all applications.
These are the steps I use to Powder coat, and have had great success.
1.Strip the part
2.Sand blast the part with aluminum oxide [this gives the powder a good "bite" on the metal]
3.Blow off the part
4.Spray the part with iron phosphate [this helps with adhesion and acts as a light cleaner].
5.Prebake the part at 425 for 30 minutes to outgas the metal [this opens the pores of the metal and releases trapped contaminates such as oil and moisture]
6.Coat the part with powder [the part looks like it is covered in velvet at this point]
7.Bake the part at the powder's manufacturer specs [usually 375 to 385 for 15 to 20 minutes after the part itself has reached the desired temperature]
Similar threads
