New engine Break-in

[Trim'd Up]

I was havng a discussion with a couple of buddys last night concerning Break in time for a newly rebuilt full roller engine. Just wanting to get some opinions from some of the motor heads on here. Honsetly, I feel that on a roller engine a long break in is not needed, but waht do I know.:sifone:

 

[FULL FORCE]

A roller cam does not need broke in, in any roller motor I have had, I have always got them to temp, and ran em however... it takes a bit for rings to seat all the way but that does not effect anything really, All the engine builders I know build em, get to temp and then pull a few passes on the dyno! so thats where my opinion came in, I never hurt a roller motor yet. It does not hurt to be easy on it for a while just to be safe if you are unsure..

 

[Griff]

IMO, maybe 20-30mins and it should be completely broke in.

 

[Rookie]

My roller engine was broke in on the dyno. 1. started it and timed it. 2. listened for any funny noises for a few seconds. (I was scared to death, my first hand built High Performance engine that I assembled myself) 3. brought it up to temp 4. put a load on it with the dyno 5. did some sweeping rpm dynometer loads for 2-3 mins (dyno operator said alright rings are seated) then did about 20 dyno pulls ranging fom 1500-6500rpms (6000-6500 NERVOUS) all was good after that

 

[Trim'd Up]

You guys are right inline with what I was saying.

 

[cig1988]

When my engines were built with roller cams the only thing that was mentioned was using Rotella T for break in. Unlike the conventional cams that require 30 minutes at a high idle.

 

[Chris]

Break-in on an engine used to entail two things- piston ring seating and lifter wear-in. Lapped rings and roller lifters eliminated both. Break in is really wear-in- two parts moving together that wear on each other burnishing the surfaces untilmated to the point that wear ceases and oil film works to prevent future wear.

 

[Mrhorsepower1]

When my engines were built with roller cams the only thing that was mentioned was using Rotella T for break in. Unlike the conventional cams that require 30 minutes at a high idle.

I would just like to clarify a common myth about camshaft break in. All cam manufacturers suggest a 20-30 minute break in on their new cams @ 2000 rpm. This is the ABSOLUTE WORST thing you can ever do on a new engine! Reason being, once the carb or EFI is off the idle circuit of the system, the engine is receiving a ton of fuel which is not being efficiently burned unless under a load. Running an engine at this rpm static is very bad. You do more damage than good. The cylinders are "washed" down with fuel stripping the oil lubrication from the cylinder walls and creating pre-mature ring wear. Also intake guides can be damaged quickly.

 

[FULL FORCE]

I would just like to clarify a common myth about camshaft break in. All cam manufacturers suggest a 20-30 minute break in on their new cams @ 2000 rpm. This is the ABSOLUTE WORST thing you can ever do on a new engine! Reason being, once the carb or EFI is off the idle circuit of the system, the engine is receiving a ton of fuel which is not being efficiently burned unless under a load. Running an engine at this rpm static is very bad. You do more damage than good. The cylinders are "washed" down with fuel stripping the oil lubrication from the cylinder walls and creating pre-mature ring wear. Also intake guides can be damaged quickly.

Ii do however agree, I have done it both ways.. I am not sure why the cam manufacturers suggest thier way if it can hurt the engine, you would think they would know too right? I had one engine with a ignition issue, it would firie then quit, somehow I did not ruin a new flat tappet cam, Ii was amazed, thats when I fiigured your way would be ok. Iis the cam break in more about metals wearing together or heat cycles?

 

[Mrhorsepower1]

Our procedure includes: timing the engine before starting, fire engine, set engine at slow idle and make any idle mixture adjustments, allow the engine to build water temp (160) , once oil temp reaches 100 degrees I will apply light loads and increase rpm. Dyno tuning allows you to control load and rpm for proper break in. The rings are general seated with the first 10-15 minutes of run time under load when the cylinder finish and cross hatch is done correctly. I run the engine a good 30 minutes during break in on the dyno varying load and rpm then if engine is a mechanical flat tappet or roller cam check valve lash before power testing. The other thing I do during break in is run the carb or carbs 2-3 jet numbers leaner. Since the engine is not being running a WOT , hear again I do not want to run more fuel then I have to through the power plant. After lash is run my base tune up is dialed in and engine is warmed up again under load till proper oil temp is achieved for a power pull. Pulls start of easy generally 3000- 4500 rpm 1st. , this allows me to look at A/F and bsfc numbers before making an all out hit. When my marine engines leave the shop they usually have about 3 hours of testing time on them and are ready to run hard . Hope this shines some light on break in and dyno procedures. :biggrinjester:

 

[Mrhorsepower1]

Ii do however agree, I have done it both ways.. I am not sure why the cam manufacturers suggest thier way if it can hurt the engine, you would think they would know too right? I had one engine with a ignition issue, it would firie then quit, somehow I did not ruin a new flat tappet cam, Ii was amazed, thats when I fiigured your way would be ok. Iis the cam break in more about metals wearing together or heat cycles?

Cam companies are looking out for their product only. They want as much oil to be splashed on the cam and lifters as possible. Even at 600 rpm the camshaft and lifters have tons of oil being put on them from the lifter galley and off the rotating assembly. I would suggest on any high performance engine using Pennzoil 25W50 racing. This oil has the highest concentration of zinc and moly in it for lubrication! Another good practice for new engine break in is using a break in additive such as Comp Cams , Torco, or Crane.

 

[FULL FORCE]

Cam companies are looking out for their product only. They want as much oil to be splashed on the cam and lifters as possible. Even at 600 rpm the camshaft and lifters have tons of oil being put on them from the lifter galley and off the rotating assembly. I would suggest on any high performance engine using Pennzoil 25W50 racing. This oil has the highest concentration of zinc and moly in it for lubrication! Another good practice for new engine break in is using a break in additive such as Comp Cams , Torco, or Crane.

True, I didi use the additiive from Comp Cams, I also used the Valvoline VR1 oili, alot of guys on OSO were using it, it is supposed to have alot of zinc also, I have 20 hrs on the engines now with no issues.

 

[old377guy]

My roller engine was broke in on the dyno. 1. started it and timed it. 2. listened for any funny noises for a few seconds. (I was scared to death, my first hand built High Performance engine that I assembled myself) 3. brought it up to temp 4. put a load on it with the dyno 5. did some sweeping rpm dynometer loads for 2-3 mins (dyno operator said alright rings are seated) then did about 20 dyno pulls ranging fom 1500-6500rpms (6000-6500 NERVOUS) all was good after that

good to see you over here, Jason - Jeff

 

[Rookie]

good to see you over here, Jason - Jeff

Thanks!

 

[jet]

set the timing and idol then head to pond and run it like ya stole it lol