Sunsation96
Charter Member
Awesome now post some pics of the paint.... PLEASE!!!!
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My Hustler ran 105.1 mph today
- Thread starter Strip Poker 388
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Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
Nocig this is a pick of the porosity,They keep coming back up if I grind them out,Dean said I couldn't sand thru
I know he puts a seal inside the case some it doesn't leak thru ,Ive has some caps with oil coming out the pin holes before.Micro zoomAttachments
Airpacker
New member
Nocig this is a pick of the porosity,They keep coming back up if I grind them out,Dean said I couldn't sand thru
Hey Rob, if oil can seep out, what stops water from seeping in?
PS, I thought I was alone in the polish everything club. Every nut, bolt, washer, screw head, fitting yada yada yada.
Over 600 pieces and 5 polishing wheels for my rerig project.
I left the lower on my new drive ugly though. Every mph counts
Airpacker
New member
screws and bolts are a piece of cake. Chuck them in a drill, spin them against some sand paper in your hand to remove the manufactures markings and grade stamps and then take them to the buffing wheel. Coarse compund first and then finnish compund on the second wheel. Unchuk em and let em fall out of the drill. DO NOT TOUCH THEM .......trust me on that part.
I have a couple nice thread shaped scars from that lesson.
Nuts, thread them onto a piece of wooden dowel to make holding them easy. I used a dremel held in a vice with a sanding disc to clean them up a bit before polishing them.
Washers I screwed to a board leaving them just loose enough to rotate. Hit them with a body polisher with a wool pad and 3m finnish cut after a quick spin with the sanding dremel.
All told, I polished over 600 fastners and about 150 flat washers that way.
I have a couple nice thread shaped scars from that lesson.
Nuts, thread them onto a piece of wooden dowel to make holding them easy. I used a dremel held in a vice with a sanding disc to clean them up a bit before polishing them.
Washers I screwed to a board leaving them just loose enough to rotate. Hit them with a body polisher with a wool pad and 3m finnish cut after a quick spin with the sanding dremel.
All told, I polished over 600 fastners and about 150 flat washers that way.
nocigarette
Charter Member
Thanks,the turing in of the props made a diff,I wonder what it would of run with out the slack in the drive from the broken ginble ring,Before the ran I checked the tow in and it was 13/16 towed in,thats running 102,I adjusted it as far as the tie bar would go,it needed more thread, prob because of the slack, so it was flopping,adjusted to 3/8 tow.Ive really never done much testing,Ive always just run a stock 30p bravo ones, Brett wants to lab a set of 32 Ive .I tried the 32 ,it still ran the 102 but didn't want to buz,felt sluggish the 30's can go 6000.on the dyno at 5900 it only was gaining 5-7hp per 100 rpm up to 6200.
My buddy Jason On OSO has a 388 also,around 1000hp guessing,bravos and extension box, he has already hit 110 and has only been running for 3 months, I know with some testing and props testing he has more in it!!!
I know of 3 other 388 that claim 108, One I trust.If there is some other Ive never heard of them or seen them on the board,just need to know the pitch,rpm,gear.:03:
Boost bro was around 140ish,the had a lot of mods,big arninson's,In the beginning Zull dynoed one at upper 1300hp,I'm "guessing" they were agood bit over 1400 when they ran the #'s,They built there own motors.
its take time sanding them down to get ready to polish,Also there are different grades of aluminum, We allegedly use to steal hwy signs.that grade would not polish out chrome looking.I bet your #3 will,I went from 36 grinding,belt sanding,then 80,120,320 alto,500 loaded up,then hand 500,800,I still has some coarse sanding marks,that showed up in the buffing,Kinda like in a new paint job,you have to spend a little time so the job will come out shinny,If ya need some help just holler.
On my Chevelle the windshield washer motor is a mixed pot metal alum,I buffed it in 1991,Ive just windexed since.you can see it to the left of the brake booster
Rob:driving:
Big pick
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Woooooow......looks great....i have always loved that chevelle.....You are going the smart route with Bret he is a genius, with a real exstensive backround in props......Good to see a guy spending way to much money on his boat.......GOOD WAY TO STIMULATE THE ECONOMY......:cheers2::cheers2::cheers2:
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
Hey Rob, if oil can seep out, what stops water from seeping in?
PS, I thought I was alone in the polish everything club. Every nut, bolt, washer, screw head, fitting yada yada yada.
Over 600 pieces and 5 polishing wheels for my rerig project.
I left the lower on my new drive ugly though. Every mph counts
I think it only leaked when hot under some pressure,the back cap leakes just sitting there,made a mess.That summer I must of gone thru 7 caps, the oil got real expemsice that year
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
No tricks, just time,buffing the headers on the wheel kills your back and for earms
after the sanding on the foot, I had some old wool buffing pads and a buddy works for a polishing material co ,so I got 1st and 2nd cut liquid compounds,he must of gave me 10 gallons,it was free so i used it ,it would get a shine on the drives, Next I took the miketia paint buffer and put 2 6inch sisal,Cotton wheels on it,turned it up on end and used white rouge,the first time it worked pretty good last week it didn't really want to shine back up, I used some cleaner wax and Cotton wading stuff by hand,its still alittle cloudy.the first piece always turns out better ya get tired on the second onethe other stuff that you can hold to polish I used 6-8in cotton buff wheels from Eastwood and a 1/3 hp 3400rpm single short shaft electric motor,its 23 years old,Its been a good one Dayton.
This is my Dirty room,were I do all my cleaning, polishing, etc as to not get the garage dirty.I need a bigger room with more wall space
The 3m alum polish works real good to get it to the Polishing stage, this is what I used on my old Scarab i beam trailer, I had it looking like the foot once,to hard to keep it up sitting outside in the weather,just like the tool boxson the Myco,I have even used car paint polishing compounds.
also the motors ball with there polish I used between the blower ribs,this rigged up a 3 inch Cotton wheel on a drill, the drill just turns to slow.
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glassdave
Founding Member / Competitor
now thats kinda funny right there knowing full well its a sacrificial piece . . . . nuts . . . but funny
dont forget the tip on the end of the oil drain plug
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Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
I did some of the bolt heads takeing the markings off,alot were allens,they dont shine up much ,if ya take the lines off the side they would show up very good anyway.I have tryied the drill press, I usally just hold them on the buffer,burn your fingers and drop it and grag anouther,I know when i get burned thru the glove I pressing to hard.
hey this thread is turning into a buffing thread:cheers2:
Air have ya had the buffer grab something your polishing and chunk it,stick into the sheet rock? after it hits your hand,that hurts:huh:
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
now thats kinda funny right there knowing full well its a sacrificial piece . . . . nuts . . . but funny
don't forget the tip on the end of the oil drain plug
Sacrificial like my liver:cheers2:Mine is anodized blue with blue areoquip fuel line
but its kinda faded though.:boobflash:Dave they might show up in the transom picks,ital look cool for a few minutes
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
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Airpacker
New member
Burning the fingies is why I chuck them in a drill Rob. I think I figured that out after I burned them, then put on leather gloves and burned em again
.Spinning them in the drill against the polishing wheel makes it a snap and no more burned finger tips.
No drywall in my work shop but I did take a 1/2" nut off the forehead. That left a mark. I may find it some day or maybe not
Unfortunately, snagging things on the wheel happened a few too many times. A couple even sent me back to re fabrication
after the pieces slammed into imoveable objects and got screwed.
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
Burning the fingies is why I chuck them in a drill Rob. I think I figured that out after I burned them, then put on leather gloves and burned em again
Spinning them in the drill against the polishing wheel makes it a snap and no more burned finger tips.
No drywall in my work shop but I did take a 1/2" nut off the forehead. That left a mark. I may find it some day or maybe not
Unfortunately, snagging things on the wheel happened a few too many times. A couple even sent me back to re fabrication
Forehead:huh:,That reminds me on the time I burned my forehead on one of the metal treble lights with a 100w bulb,the skin even peeled off,I have florasent light now:cheers2:
Ive been using a 1/3 hp motor,now I have the 3/4 I bet its going to be worse
gota make sure I wear my safty glass'sRob
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
I got all the interior back in the boat last night,Its been out a year and 3 dayssnowed pretty good,heater in boat,alittle beer made it warm enough made a T pee with the coverpolished all the gel coat in the cabin,used the 3m ultra Fina, got a pretty good shine,then waxed it and even waxed the walls in the bathroom,shinny.Next polish stainless sink.
Rob:cheers2:
snowed pretty good,heater in boat,alittle beer made it warm enough made a T pee with the coverpolished all the gel coat in the cabin,used the 3m ultra Fina, got a pretty good shine,then waxed it and even waxed the walls in the bathroom,shinny.Next polish stainless sink.Rob:cheers2:
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Sunsation96
Charter Member
OMFG! Rob your boat is sweeeeeeeeeeet! It is nice to see someone take so much pride in a boat! congrats and I hope to see lots of pictures come this summer. I can't say it enough sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet boat, the paint looks awesome the color combo is perfect clean and not over done I think some times boats can be over done. You have made my day now I want a boat more than ever.
neversatisfied
New member
Rob are your lowers standard or shorties?
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
Strip Poker 388
Charter Member
Steve they are standard length,I think it needs the extra bite,I have heard of some guys running the Imco 2 inch shorties,they claim to help.Ive really never did much testing.I know the water ripple makes a bunch off diff on the water!! If its flat its going to porpoise bad,the 1 foot chop ans no cross wake or wind so it want throw it into a chine walk, Turning the props in was 3 mph,but the porpoise was pretty violent.it would turn left on the up cycle,then snake when it hits the water then pull the front bow up just like riding a wheelie on a bike.it felt like if it could Carry the front it would really pick up,mine jumped from the norm 102 to to 103 bounce then carried the front 104,then 105.I know I am over trimming but it is faster porpoising
Also when I ran the 105 it has a broke Gimbel pin.the skeg would move over a inch side to side, prob the reason for snaking??? everything is brand new,I try and do some testing this spring when its still cool ,also try the 32's see if i can turn them to 6k turning in.
.
I think the extension box would help.Look cool to
I need to play with some labed props,I'm running stock stuff
Steve how yours doing??
Rob:cheers2:
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