Whoz Your Daddy
Competitor
Any ideas where in south jersey to find the gallons? I used to get it at Wally World but they dont have. Tried advanced Autozone and Strauss
WTF?
WTF?
Headlines
Mobil One 15-50 Cant find
- Thread starter Whoz Your Daddy
- Start date
Whoz Your Daddy
Competitor
thanks will try napa
CNC
New member
I tried also, no luck??? only 10-40.... any harm in running 10-40??
MarylandMark
Charter Member
I'm heading to Myrtle Beach, SC tomorrow until Monday and then Atlantic City the weekend of 4/24 so I can drop some off on my way?
Tell me what a good price is and I'll check a few places for you.
ps- thanks again for the racing info/offers you sent me last year which besides being a SOS'er is why I'm trying to go out of my way to help since that is what you did for me. What goes around, hopefully comes around 10 fold! Cheers and thanks again!
Tell me what a good price is and I'll check a few places for you.
ps- thanks again for the racing info/offers you sent me last year which besides being a SOS'er is why I'm trying to go out of my way to help since that is what you did for me. What goes around, hopefully comes around 10 fold! Cheers and thanks again!
Whoz Your Daddy
Competitor
Hey Mark I will be down that way Friday and will look around. Thanks and make sure you come see us in OC
Whoz Your Daddy
Competitor
Why are u guys running syntethic oil with a solid roller cam ???????
Go VR1 Valvoline Racing oil !!!!!!!! CHEAP AND SUPER !!!!!!
Its for the Sonic hp500's efi not solid cam. Always ran it in there and have never had any issues.
CNC
New member
I've been using Mobil 1 for over 35 year, Since I read a article in Popular Science about Mobil 1. I have run in everything from race bikes at Daytona, dune buggies, now boats. Mobil 1 was only available in 10w-30 at first, never had a lubrication problem. But as heavier weight oils came out I naturally went to them....why???? Mobil 1 was originally used (developed for??) the Alaskan pipe line equipment. Their claim to fame was the their thin oil film lubrication, you wanted a thin oil to coat on every metal part. Newer cars are all using thinner weight oils....is this better? How would 10w-40 compare to 15w-50?
Thinner oils are great for efficiency- extracting that last MPG out of your car. You can unleash a few more horses out of your engines running lighter oils as well. But you sacrifice protection.
If you've been using Mobil 1 for 20 years, 10 years or even 5 years, the stuff in the store today isn't the same as what you were using back them. The EPA has restricted the additives allowed to be used in automotive oils. So the formulations have changed.
If you've been using Mobil 1 for 20 years, 10 years or even 5 years, the stuff in the store today isn't the same as what you were using back them. The EPA has restricted the additives allowed to be used in automotive oils. So the formulations have changed.
CNC
New member
Thanks Chris,
But if this is a sign of things to come (heavier weights going away) is there much of a difference between 10-40 and 15-50? I've never been a believer in additives (Lucas,Zmax etc) (http://www.epinions.com/content_2969477252) what can be done. Mobil 1 was one of the last 15-50's out there....
Randy
The 50 is going to give you substantially better protection at higher oil temps. If your oil never breaks 200 degrees, you probably won't utilize the additional protection. But if your engines never break 200, I'm guessing your temp readings are probably not right. Or you don't run more than part throttle.
Additives? Depends. They took alot out of oils so I see no reason why putting them back is bad. They took them out to reduce the emissions of metals into the environment. Replacing them isn't the most environmentally consientious thing you can do, but neither is owning a recreational toy that burns more gas in a weekend than the average American consumes driving to work in a year. Zinc (ZDDP) is a proven wear preventer. Molybdenum disulfide is an exceptional lubricant. Adding them back in certainly will reduce wear and friction.
Additives? Depends. They took alot out of oils so I see no reason why putting them back is bad. They took them out to reduce the emissions of metals into the environment. Replacing them isn't the most environmentally consientious thing you can do, but neither is owning a recreational toy that burns more gas in a weekend than the average American consumes driving to work in a year. Zinc (ZDDP) is a proven wear preventer. Molybdenum disulfide is an exceptional lubricant. Adding them back in certainly will reduce wear and friction.
By the way, the "W" rating is not indicative of anything about that oil's viscosity. That's a cold-cranking rating. So a 20w 50 is going to take a small amount more energy to crank over cold than a 15w 50. Insignificant.
At the same time, to achieve that "reach" some compromises have to be made in the oil's formulation. That results in additives in the mix that can lead to deposits inside the engine- around the rings and valve guides.
I'll trade cold-crank for the significant increase in shear strength that those 10 points of viscosity give me every day.
At the same time, to achieve that "reach" some compromises have to be made in the oil's formulation. That results in additives in the mix that can lead to deposits inside the engine- around the rings and valve guides.
I'll trade cold-crank for the significant increase in shear strength that those 10 points of viscosity give me every day.
CNC
New member
Which and whose additives should you add (to put back in ZDDP or disulfide)
None of the name brand seem to have it (http://www.technilube.com/faqs_info/additives.php)
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