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Ilmor 725/Indy build from the beginning
- Thread starter C_Spray
- Start date
C_Spray
Charter Member
I forgot that I had these pictures. Uber-beefy transom assembly; the biggest trim and steering rams in the business and super-neat plumbing. No bizzarely-shaped hard lines, and the line clamps are a nice touch. You can also see now how the lower steering pivot pin is in double shear for extra strength.
More to come from IlmorDude. I cannot believe that they pulled him off of my engine and drive to attend some second-rate race in Bristol last weekend. What was then name of that series? FASCAR? GASCAR? LASTCAR?
Oh, yeah - "NASCAR". There's no way that could be important. :boxing_smiley:
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ILMORdude
Sponsor / Charter Member
More to come from IlmorDude. I cannot believe that they pulled him off of my engine and drive to attend some second-rate race in Bristol last weekend. What was then name of that series? FASCAR? GASCAR? LASTCAR?
Oh, yeah - "NASCAR". There's no way that could be important. :boxing_smiley:
And ps- where were you this weekend sir??:driving:
ILMORdude
Sponsor / Charter Member
And this is PRE-DYNO! Wait til she gets dressed for the occasion! :kiss:
R'Addiction
Charter Member
Ilmordude, I'm Chucks cheif diet pepsi getter, tool cleaner, picture taker, and once in a while I get to use a ratchet:willy_nilly: I was wondering if you can get us some video of the dyno run? It would make a great conversation piece on saturday night:drool5:
C_Spray
Charter Member
A dyno video would be very cool, but IlmorDude would have to be standing inside the actual cell to get the best footage... :willy_nilly:
More shots of the business end. The transmission is a driveshaft-style unit used for dyno testing. Mine will use a plug-in style. The transmission is a hydraulically-actuated dry sump design that uses clutch plates rather than a cone clutch, so shifting should be quite smooth. Parasitic power loss in the transmission is almost non-existent.
The engine and transmission are true fly-by-wire designs. Since my boat already has mechanical cable controls, we'll be using the cables to actuate the throttle and shift electronics. Ideally, I'd like to eventually switch over to full electronic controls and delete the cables.
The previously-mentioned rear engine mount is clearly visible in this shot, along with the engine/transmission controller. This box has full OBD-M diagnostics and logging, and is capable of driving any NMEA2000-compatible display, like the latest chartplotters and multifunction displays. You have a lot of engine information right at your fingertips with this package.
More shots of the business end. The transmission is a driveshaft-style unit used for dyno testing. Mine will use a plug-in style. The transmission is a hydraulically-actuated dry sump design that uses clutch plates rather than a cone clutch, so shifting should be quite smooth. Parasitic power loss in the transmission is almost non-existent.
The engine and transmission are true fly-by-wire designs. Since my boat already has mechanical cable controls, we'll be using the cables to actuate the throttle and shift electronics. Ideally, I'd like to eventually switch over to full electronic controls and delete the cables.
The previously-mentioned rear engine mount is clearly visible in this shot, along with the engine/transmission controller. This box has full OBD-M diagnostics and logging, and is capable of driving any NMEA2000-compatible display, like the latest chartplotters and multifunction displays. You have a lot of engine information right at your fingertips with this package.
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ILMORdude
Sponsor / Charter Member
I aint scared of that shiz............if they'd let me i'd stand in there!! I dont have a good enough quality recorder to capture the sound from inside. :driving:
Jassman
Charter Member
I forgot that I had these pictures. Uber-beefy transom assembly; the biggest trim and steering rams in the business and super-neat plumbing. No bizzarely-shaped hard lines, and the line clamps are a nice touch. You can also see now how the lower steering pivot pin is in double shear for extra strength.
More to come from IlmorDude. I cannot believe that they pulled him off of my engine and drive to attend some second-rate race in Bristol last weekend. What was then name of that series? FASCAR? GASCAR? LASTCAR?
Oh, yeah - "NASCAR". There's no way that could be important. :boxing_smiley:
very impressive..the more I research Ilmor the more I'm impressed..The next generation..
C_Spray
Charter Member
Is there any footage of any of the F1 or Indy engines? It was always a life-changing experience to stand in the same room as an 700- to 900-horsepower engine revving in the teens. Of course, the methanol fumes were enough to shorten your life an hour for every minute that you were in the room... :leaving:
C_Spray
Charter Member
When you go to start it up, call me from the dyno room, and I'll put it on my speaker phone....
C_Spray
Charter Member
Well, while I'm waiting for the dyno backlog to clear out, things are moving on.
Since the engine will be mounted about 4" higher than before, the headers will require some "lumps" in the engine cover for clearance. The stylized NACA ducts will disappear completely.
Since the original engine covers are of cored Kevlar/epoxy construction and fully painted, I didn't want to hack them up. I called Rex Jardine at Vector Powerboats, and it turns out that they still have a set of molds to make original "Mannerfelt"-style hatches. For a very reasonable price, they laid up a set of hatches with just the outer skins; no coring or inner skins. These will serve as the basis for a one-piece hatch, and make life much simpler than having to strip and cut up the original ones. :hurray:
Still (as always), this process is inevitably going to involve more of the dreaded fiberglass dust... :ack2:
Since the engine will be mounted about 4" higher than before, the headers will require some "lumps" in the engine cover for clearance. The stylized NACA ducts will disappear completely.
Since the original engine covers are of cored Kevlar/epoxy construction and fully painted, I didn't want to hack them up. I called Rex Jardine at Vector Powerboats, and it turns out that they still have a set of molds to make original "Mannerfelt"-style hatches. For a very reasonable price, they laid up a set of hatches with just the outer skins; no coring or inner skins. These will serve as the basis for a one-piece hatch, and make life much simpler than having to strip and cut up the original ones. :hurray:
Still (as always), this process is inevitably going to involve more of the dreaded fiberglass dust... :ack2:
Attachments
C_Spray
Charter Member
Since it's pretty much standard practice for the tabs to match the drive(s), I had mine painted. Ilmor was kind enough to supply me with the proper paint code, so in return, I machined the logo of a certain competing marine components manufacturer off of the planes....
