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??? for FORD diesel service tech

fixxxer22 said:
I'm ok with them. They have plenty of power. Hard to get good MPG out of them. The egr system is alot stronger. The only downfall is the DPF system (not much of a downfall but a downfall) the dpf cleans itself by injecting fuel on the exhaust stroke when the filter is too plugged. then there is an afterburner effect in the exhaust that cleans the DPF. the DPF costs about 2K and is considered a wear item that will have to be baked and then replaced at around 100-150k. other than that they looked at what caused so many problems in the 6.0 and tried to fix them. it has 2 egr coolers. a different valve and 2 turbos. 1 fixed and 1 VGT. It is not a twin turbo it is a dual turbo. seems to get the boost levels in the needed range at all rpms. The body is meant to come off of the 08 and up trucks to make repairs easier.
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We haven't seen many issues with the 6.4 here
 
fixxxer22 said:
I would also complain of a long crank hot and see if you can get the updated STC fitting installed while under warranty.
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Can you explain more how I would complain to them about this? 73K miles and bought it around 7/06- is it still under warranty? VIN is 1FTWW31P36ED41216 if that helps. Will the dealer want to do the work; like will they bill Ford and make money or groan over warranty work?

The only thing I've had done was a remote start w/timer for glow plugs, bought and installed at Best Buy. Would this void having the STC done?

TY for the help- wish you were in MD so I could give you some side work if you wanted it!
 
fixx ... I think it would be pretty educational here if you could outline replacing the egr and the blockoff plate mod

i'm sure several owners would be thankful for this do_it_yourself info
 
MarylandMark said:
Can you explain more how I would complain to them about this? 73K miles and bought it around 7/06- is it still under warranty? VIN is 1FTWW31P36ED41216 if that helps. Will the dealer want to do the work; like will they bill Ford and make money or groan over warranty work?

The only thing I've had done was a remote start w/timer for glow plugs, bought and installed at Best Buy. Would this void having the STC done?

TY for the help- wish you were in MD so I could give you some side work if you wanted it!
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Ok, I pulled an Oasis check on your truck. You have never made a warranty claim! I would complain of a long crank when the truck has been sitting after it being hot. say you have let it sit for a couple hours and it cranks too long. Also say you had a buddy get the new STC fitting and it took care of it. You need this fitting. The problem is not if it is when... It will fail and you need to get the new tube on the back of the high pressure pump to correct what will happen in the future.
 
Ok, The intake holds the egr cooler. I have many many many used egr coolers that can be plugged. you pay the ship you can have them. I have a talented machininst that machines a stainless plug for each end and welds them in. he charges me $75.00 a cooler. then i can ship i do not need a profit here.

ok, you remove the intake and the egr cooler is hooked to the intake. 3 bolts later.... you have a new cooler bolted to the intake. you install tyhe intake and go from there. the now plugged egr system will set a check engine lamp if you leave the valve plugged in and you have no exhaust modifications. if you have stock exhaust: install the blocked off cooler and unplug the egr valve. if you have exhaust: install the blocked off cooler and leave the valve plugged in (it really makes no difference. The benefit is that there is no longer a cooler with exhaust in it. they fail more than anything on a 6.0 and make coolant vent from the degas tank. deleting the cooler is the #1 thing on my list for a friend of mine with a 6.0

Also, you are viewing above ford shop manuals. I can send you anything on any ford 1995 and up the same way without penalty.
 
fixxxer22 said:
Ok, I pulled an Oasis check on your truck. You have never made a warranty claim!
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Yep, has been a good truck! Last 4 Fords have been GREAT products! This is the 1st truck I've keep more than 3 years or over 50K miles- finally bought the perfect one I guess! My last one was 04 F150 Lariant- got this one because I liked the leather better and bought a bigger boat. My GF has an Escape with 130K and it's been a great truck! I keep telling her to get a new one, but with a 3/4 mile drive to work she doesn't want to spend the money. Fine by me!

BUT- I spoke too soon!! Few weeks ago, 1st day of the blizzard; I cranked and cranked my truck but it wouldn't start. Killed the battery. Lesson learned- diesels don't work on sparks so once there is not enough power to crank it, STOP!! Charged the battery, cranked up and good to go.

Last week- hit my remote starter, didn't start but keep the lights, heater fan, etc on enough to drain the battery enough that it wouldn't start. Grrrr but blamed myself for letting it sit for 15 minutes without checking. Used a battery with jumper cables hooked up to it jump box thing and started right up

Last night- started my truck 3-4 times within 30 minutes while running errands store to store. Last stop, seemed like the battery was struggling but shut it off any way. Yep- no start 5 minutes later. Since my lessoned learned above, went home to get the jump box thing, started right up, drove 3 miles home and left it running for 40ish minutes to build the battery back up. Turned it off, turned it back on and started with 1 turnover.

This AM- tried remote start while walking out of the house. Didn't start but I was inside it under 1 minute and no start. Had to charge the battery for like 20 minutes before it would start, the little jump battery thing I have didn't have enough juice I guess. Well I left it on 60AMP jump vs 30AMP rapid charge and think I fried a diode. I drove with it in haul/tow mode to keep my RPM up hoping that would charge the battery back up- just a guess on my part.

I waited a few hours and then it started right up and I went to Auto Zone. The Auto Zone guy said the alternator is not putting out enough juice to charge the battery. Most of the time I start it, drive 18 miles and apparently that is enough to keep it charged enough. No start when he was done, so he jumped it and I went back to work, put it on the charger. Started right up when I went to leave and took it to the shop.

So- in the shop today to get checked out and an alternator installed. Well the mechanic is going to make sure that is the issue but sounds like that is the issue from the Auto Zone guy. Ford wanted $200 labor and $300 for the part. Auto Zone wanted $200 for the part and then a local garage wanted $250 to install. I would have taken it to Ford but they didn't have one in stock and couldn't get one for 2 days (parts person sick today) so I took it to the local guy right up the street. They are great up there, been around for 100ish years but the best part is I can walk home after dropping it off, which I did.
 
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I would also make sure both batteries are up to par. you need to disconnect them and test them by themselves. If you have a dead cell in one battery it will also hinder the charging system and if the truck cannot maintain over 8volts with the glow plugs on and the starter engaged the FICM and PCM will not sync. The 6.0 charging system is a little on the weak side. but make sure you have good batteries. deka batteries has a 880cca replacement for $70.00 and i have them in my truck. just replace them ifin question because low voltage at initial start-up likes to eat $700.00 FICM modules.
 
Easy to swap the alternator. We have them rebuilt for about a hundred bucks locally.

I think the 6.0's are tough on batteries. I just replaced the 3rd set in mine at 97k miles.. Love warranties :) :)
 
MarylandMark said:
so I took it to the local guy right up the street. They are great up there, been around for 100ish years but the best part is I can walk home after dropping it off, which I did.
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Lucky. My "guy up the street" wouldn't touch my truck. He was afraid of the DuraMax and the sheer size of the thing scared him from lifting it.
 
Hey Fixx, question: Other day while towing, the infamous wrench light lit off. Truck did not go into limp home though, pulled just fine. Next AM, light off, no more issues since then. I didn't think that reset, is it supposed to?
 
If a fault is occouring at that time it will illuminate the warning lamp for that system. The wrench lamp is for the transmission and the throttle pedal assy. If you did not notice any difference in the shifting of the truck and your fluid and level is good i would assume you may have had a position sender get confused in the accelerator pedal. Can you have your continious codes pulled? we can get a little farther from there. I know an autozone will do it for free.
 
fixxxer22 said:
Magic and dude: I would look into getting the egr deleted from your trucks. Send me your vin numbers and let me make sure you have the late build 6.0's and then I could hook you guys up with blocked up coolers and gasket sets.
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Thanks man. Been buried at work so haven't been on much. I'll get off my butt and PM you the info. California is implementing a smog check with visual inspection on diesel trucks under 14,000# gvwr as of 1/1/10 so I have some concerns about whether I'm going to be able to get away with the EGR delete.
 
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