Engine room transom paint

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Two days ago I was running wide open across a lake. The water supply hose to my header came off. The header overheated and burned the short rubber hose that connects the header to the exhaust tip. What a mess. I have cleaned up everything but have a stain on the transom that just won't clean up. I have tried everything. I would like to paint the transom so it all looks good again. Something I can brush on. It is an off-white color. I looked into Interlux- Briteside one part Polyurethane paint. #4381. It is a very close color match. Is this the proper paint to use or should I be using something different.
Thanks,
Steve
 
I have used Easypoxy in my engine compartment numerous times and it's a great product...easy to apply, high gloss and cleans easy.
 
Two days ago I was running wide open across a lake. The water supply hose to my header came off. The header overheated and burned the short rubber hose that connects the header to the exhaust tip. What a mess. I have cleaned up everything but have a stain on the transom that just won't clean up. I have tried everything. I would like to paint the transom so it all looks good again. Something I can brush on. It is an off-white color. I looked into Interlux- Briteside one part Polyurethane paint. #4381. It is a very close color match. Is this the proper paint to use or should I be using something different.
Thanks,
Steve

Yes, i think u be ok with that..but why would u brush it on ??? SPRAY IT !!!!!:confused:

if its not to bad and gelcoat, u can sand it and buff it out !!
 
Have you tried on off acid? that stuff works pretty well on any stain.

I have not. I did try sanding it, that seemed to make it worse. I would like to brush it on because it is much easier than spraying it. It is not a smooth surface so you won't be able to see brush marks. Here is what it looked like before I cleaned it up.
 

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I have not. I did try sanding it, that seemed to make it worse. I would like to brush it on because it is much easier than spraying it. It is not a smooth surface so you won't be able to see brush marks. Here is what it looked like before I cleaned it up.

Here is an old pic from one of the engine compartments I used it in. Brush on, looks great and withstands well.
 

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we used to tow a tender behind the yacht I worked on, and after a 14 hour trip it would be covered in deisel exhaust. we used roll off and magic erasers, and if that did not work we would use on off. however, that was not such close contact and the heat from the exhaust. but both products work very well, for the roll off, spray it on, let it sit for 15 minutes, and then give it a wipe, it may ormay not work. best of luck.
 
I have not. I did try sanding it, that seemed to make it worse. I would like to brush it on because it is much easier than spraying it. It is not a smooth surface so you won't be able to see brush marks. Here is what it looked like before I cleaned it up.

By the looks of the pix, u may want to get that header checked,,i bet its cracked and has a leak..NO WAY there is non..u would be the luckyest person i ever heard of !!!!:rolleyes:
 
By the looks of the pix, u may want to get that header checked,,i bet its cracked and has a leak..NO WAY there is non..u would be the luckyest person i ever heard of !!!!:rolleyes:

I am afraid of that. I am going to run it on the hose then pull it back off and look to see if any water is in there. I think I'm screwed. Can these be fixed or am I SOL?

Miami OS -The paint looks good, that is what I am going to do.
 
I am afraid of that. I am going to run it on the hose then pull it back off and look to see if any water is in there. I think I'm screwed. Can these be fixed or am I SOL?

Miami OS -The paint looks good, that is what I am going to do.

Don't run it on the hose and pull it off,,then u already get water in the engine WTF ?????

Take it off, block it on 1 side and then stick the hose to the other side and turn the water on !!!!!!!

If u see the water on 1 of the 4 tubes inside...DONE..and yes they can be fixed..but not cheap !!!!
 
I have not. I did try sanding it, that seemed to make it worse. I would like to brush it on because it is much easier than spraying it. It is not a smooth surface so you won't be able to see brush marks. Here is what it looked like before I cleaned it up.

yikes!
 
Daredevil, can you explain a little better on how to test the header. Do I apply water to the nipples on the runners and block off the end of the header?
 
Daredevil, can you explain a little better on how to test the header. Do I apply water to the nipples on the runners and block off the end of the header?

Block off the nipples ( where the water usualy goes in ) then conect a hose to the part where the water usualy comes out ( the little elbow on top of the collector )
turn on hose slow, bleed air out where u blocked the nipples off ( i usualy thread a ball valve in there ) , once air is out , give full power to the hose and let sit for 15 min or so .
If u can not see any water coming out of the 4 runner pipes your good to go .

I wish u luck !:cheers2:

Just looked at the pix again, u have a wet system...

U need to some how block off the part on the tail pipe where the water runs around ( kind of hard ) .
U could find a huge o-ring ( 4 inch pipe gasket, home depot ), to fit in there and stick a clamp behind it once its in !? IMO
Then just connect a hose to 1 side of the water inlet tube..and thread a valve on the plug thread of the collector !
Should work ?!
 
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DO NOT just connect a 175 PSI air line to your header to test it. If it is cracked, that much pressure can cause a rupture that can injure you. I know the suggestion was to connect to water, but I've seen the other done- it's scary.

I'm not sure why the concern about the header being cracked. I'd be more concerned about a restriction in water flow that allowed the connecting tube to overheat. There's a reason it happened- I'd want to know why before heading out onto the water again.
 
DO NOT just connect a 175 PSI air line to your header to test it. If it is cracked, that much pressure can cause a rupture that can injure you. I know the suggestion was to connect to water, but I've seen the other done- it's scary.

I'm not sure why the concern about the header being cracked. I'd be more concerned about a restriction in water flow that allowed the connecting tube to overheat. There's a reason it happened- I'd want to know why before heading out onto the water again.

:iagree:

A WATER HOSE FROM THE REGULAR HOUSE WATER !!!!!!!! NOT AIR !!!!!!

I also agree on the restrition point..but after it got that hot..it needs to get checked for leaks !

:cheers2:
 
I am going to take the header over to Ateco, who is a CMI distributor, tomorrow morning and they are going to pressure test it.. I am not really set up to test this properly and feel confident about it.
This is what the transom looks like after cleaning it with everything I could think of. Ordered the paint to paint the transom and should have in a few days. The header cleaned up like new, as well as the CMI Sound Elimination Muffer after lots of buffing. Had to get a new spring for the muffler as the heat took out the tension.

Note the difference in the flame arrestor from the previous picture. That black crap just pluged that thing.

I will know tomorrow either good or bad news about the header
 

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Ateco tested the header today and it tested good with no leaks. Also got the muffler spring in the mail today. I am happy to say I will be back on the water soon. Make sure your hoses are on tight! A lesson well learned.
 
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