Headlines
Carb rebuild
- Thread starter Buoy
- Start date
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Is it acting up and/or dumping fuel or are you just inclined to clean it?
If the latter is true you can just get the bowl and metering block gaskets along with the screw washers. They are common on most or all carbs. Reusable ones are available I suggest you get them. The work is in cleaning the stubborn stuck gasket material. The surfaces have a ridge in them and makes it time consuming. A complete kit will have floats, power valves, needle and seat, and accel pumps too. Most of these components you can buy separately.
There will be a Holley number stamped in the center section somewhere that is the reference number you need when ordering a complete kit.
If it is dumping while running the first thing to do is check the float level and adjust. If it won't adjust it is easy to pull the needle and seat out as one and check. A little piece of debris there will cause it to dump when running. You can do this with out taking anything else off or apart.
If the latter is true you can just get the bowl and metering block gaskets along with the screw washers. They are common on most or all carbs. Reusable ones are available I suggest you get them. The work is in cleaning the stubborn stuck gasket material. The surfaces have a ridge in them and makes it time consuming. A complete kit will have floats, power valves, needle and seat, and accel pumps too. Most of these components you can buy separately.
There will be a Holley number stamped in the center section somewhere that is the reference number you need when ordering a complete kit.
If it is dumping while running the first thing to do is check the float level and adjust. If it won't adjust it is easy to pull the needle and seat out as one and check. A little piece of debris there will cause it to dump when running. You can do this with out taking anything else off or apart.
Buoy
Founding Member
It's a used carb, and my engine builder took a look at it and highly suggested a rebuild on it.
Through a pm Airpacker was able to get me the part number I need.
The number stamped on the air horn is 9015 1600.
P/N for the rebuild kit is 3-720, although I couldn't find it on the Holley website.
It shows up on Jeg's site, and appears to be the correct kit.
Jeg's has a 10-17 day lead time...
Any suggestions of where else to get it that won't take 3 weeks before I order from Jegs?
Through a pm Airpacker was able to get me the part number I need.
The number stamped on the air horn is 9015 1600.
P/N for the rebuild kit is 3-720, although I couldn't find it on the Holley website.
It shows up on Jeg's site, and appears to be the correct kit.
Jeg's has a 10-17 day lead time...
Any suggestions of where else to get it that won't take 3 weeks before I order from Jegs?
Mrhorsepower1
SO Tech Expert
give me a call , I can sell you the correct rebuild kit and give you the correct advice on the entire set up of the carb. Thanks!
Dean Gellner
(216) 398-8500
Dean Gellner
(216) 398-8500
Geronimo36
Charter Member
I always like to pull the bowls off, turn them upside down and note the height of the floats before disassembling so when you put it back together you can get pretty close on the float heights and only simple adjustment is needed when you run it.
Also, note the positions of all the idle mixture screws, then slowly turn them in until they bottom out. Don't make them tight, you'll mess up the needle. When turning them in until they bottom out, note the number of turns it took to bottom out. This is helpful when you re-assemble the carb so you have a good ballpark of where the mixture screws need to be. If you forget to record the number of turns on the screws, 1 1/2 turns is usually pretty close.
I also like to adjust the accellerator pumps a little differently than factory with almost zero lash, just making sure they don't bottom out. I found it gave better low rpm reaction time.
Geronimo36
Charter Member
Similar threads
