Rogue,
I normally dont helicoil unless the threads are damaged. I dont like to use larger studs, either, the case is pretty thin in that area and drilling to a larger dia makes it that much thinner. The holding power of the 3/8" studs is sufficient in normal operation of the drive. I like to fill the majority of the threaded hole with stud. I believe it helps stabilize the upper case some. I red loctite them in and use nyloc nut to hold the cap down. Then I install a treaded spacer with bolts in the top to hold the drive shower on. This isolates the top cap fastening from the cap clamping.
If the gears break, it is going to destroy things any way. I have yet to see a top cap come off and cause the gears to break, well when they are studded. In my opinion, I believe the gears break and pop the top cap. But I have never seen one with out streached bolts or undamaged threads. Not saying it doesnt happen, just not seen in in my shop. If the drive is operating properly, I dont see a need to increase clamping load on the top cap.
J.T.
My opinion of the XR gears is not very favorable at present. A few years ago, 1000hp was not an instant drive breaker. Now a days, 650hp in a light boat and the teeth on the driven gears just break off. I had the metal analyzed and no one can match the material up to any common steel offering listed out there. I have also analyzed the Helical gear from Merc and the Bmax upper gear. All very interesting. I am in the process now of attempting to have upper gears made with better material. It is very costly and nothing happens over nite.. We'll see where it takes me.
I have seen a hub seperate from the ring gear (that was what I was refering when I said gear split in two). I have also seen a ring gear break in two, half of it was left on the hub, the other have did some interference machining in the case. All very ugly!
Hope this helps.
Dick