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#6 drive skeg question

ProMod

ProMod

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Our fabricator welding several seasons of shark bites as well as flattened out some ripples and has now highly polished our Drysump 6 drive alum skegs.
They are now symmetrical Port and Starboard as to thickness and flatness.

What is the fasted finish, brushed ? Painted? Polished? and if it's brushed as most have told me do we use 80 grit 60 grit ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Glen
 

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I would use something in the 220 to 360 range . 60 or 80 is way too course.

Personally I would keep them polished. The speed difference is nearly immeasurable in most cases. IMO
 
MOBILEMERCMAN said:
I would use something in the 220 to 360 range . 60 or 80 is way too course.

Personally I would keep them polished. The speed difference is nearly immeasurable in most cases. IMO
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Thanks for the advice I cant wait to try them just the way they are.


The guys that repaired them 3 years back welded and painted them but never straighten the skeg.

The one large 4" x 1 1/2" shark bite or obliterated log hit from 3 seasons ago had bent our Port skeg approx 3/16 of an inch hopefully that was what our handling issues were as to crabbing as we run into the 150s !
 

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ProMod said:
Our fabricator welding several seasons of shark bites as well as flattened out some ripples and has now highly polished our Drysump 6 drive alum skegs.
They are now symmetrical Port and Starboard as to thickness and flatness.

What is the fasted finish, brushed ? Painted? Polished? and if it's brushed as most have told me do we use 80 grit 60 grit ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Glen
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wow, I'm looking at a set of wet with the old style skeg, being in md I may have your guy update them for me. I have some stuff in the works...lol :sifone:
 
you will find 1-2 mph if the skegs are swirled with 220 grit on a DA, polished finished is the slowest and will only stay polished a couple of times in the water.
 
I noticed the gearcase in the first pic is different form the cases in the second. The second appear to be swept back skegs.

It will be hard to keep the polished finish looking good. It may be easier to sand them in the end. I used to clean and oil them on the race boats every time it hit the water and polish them again before leaving for each race.
 
Offshoredrillin said:
wow, I'm looking at a set of wet with the old style skeg, being in md I may have your guy update them for me. I have some stuff in the works...lol :sifone:
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Let me know when your ready and depending on what you are doing ,wet to drysump? blue print skeg?transom assembly micro sleeves? etc I will gladly put you in touch with the local guys that maintain our rig.
Glen
 
Geronimo36 said:
Rob, a few weeks ago you were tellin me to leave my boat alone and don't mess with it! ;)
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i know I was, and you certainly proved me wrong...I'm leaving mine alone this summer for sure. thing is there are so many take out 1075's and 6's hitting the market now that it makes it an affordable upgrade for my boat. I love my boat and with a 1075/6 pkg it would be turn key 100+. I have already done everything else to it.
 
Offshoredrillin said:
i know I was, and you certainly proved me wrong...I'm leaving mine alone this summer for sure. thing is there are so many take out 1075's and 6's hitting the market now that it makes it an affordable upgrade for my boat. I love my boat and with a 1075/6 pkg it would be turn key 100+. I have already done everything else to it.
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If you got the coin that seems to be the best way to go!!!!:)
 
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