Senor Falcon
New member
Any contact email address?
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36ft repower question
- Thread starter Senor Falcon
- Start date
old377guy
Charter Member
Senor Falcon
New member
Senor Falcon
New member
old377guy
Charter Member
Have you tried calling; they seemed pretty good in the past returning calls - good luck - Jeff
bajabob 718
New member
well the way i look at it? the back of the motors bolt on to the inter plate.two bolts i would set the motor on the frist . then take cardboard and make a templet and get metal ,cut it like the templet and weld it to fit.
Senor Falcon
New member
Thanks Jeff, I´ll give that a try tomorrow.
Pete
Pete
Senor Falcon
New member
Thanks for that Bob. The main problem is, first the transom plate (inner and outer) have to be fitted, to bolt both V8 engines, complete with Velvet box´s, onto them. Not being 100% sure where the transom plates will be, makes this a little harder.
Also, 2 x 564 KG, hanging around, while I make cardboard templates, does worry me a little.
Thanks for your suggestion anyway.
Pete
Also, 2 x 564 KG, hanging around, while I make cardboard templates, does worry me a little.
Thanks for your suggestion anyway.
Pete
Senor Falcon
New member
Moving drives outboard (wider apart)
Hi All, My original Alpha 1 drive centre´s were about 33". I have taken many measurements from the new engines and the centre´s should be about 37 3/4", allowing 4" between the engines. The TRS transom plates are bigger than the Alpha 1 plates but mostly vertically, the width is not much different. So, I need to move the drive holes about 2 1/2" outboard. Does this mean that I must replace the entire transom or can I build up the inner edge of the existing holes and open out the outer edge of the existing holes?
Either way, what´s the best way to do the job.
Pete
Hi All, My original Alpha 1 drive centre´s were about 33". I have taken many measurements from the new engines and the centre´s should be about 37 3/4", allowing 4" between the engines. The TRS transom plates are bigger than the Alpha 1 plates but mostly vertically, the width is not much different. So, I need to move the drive holes about 2 1/2" outboard. Does this mean that I must replace the entire transom or can I build up the inner edge of the existing holes and open out the outer edge of the existing holes?
Either way, what´s the best way to do the job.
Pete
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
You have your hands full.. I would think adding a center stringer is in order.. Have you measured the length required for TRS? It looks tight length wise to me. Have you considered Bravo's?
Any way my 10 Meter has 502's, Gil exhaust, TRS and 33" centers.
Any way my 10 Meter has 502's, Gil exhaust, TRS and 33" centers.
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
How wide are your engines with exhaust? That is the pressing question for choosing centers.
Senor Falcon
New member
Hi,
Manifolds are 33 3/4" wide and then the turbo over hangs nearly 1", but, the other engine, with the turbo facing the same way, is 1" inside the edge of the manifold. So, I have 33 3/4" wide. How close are those engines? Do you have anything to stop them hitting each other?
See photos
Pete
Manifolds are 33 3/4" wide and then the turbo over hangs nearly 1", but, the other engine, with the turbo facing the same way, is 1" inside the edge of the manifold. So, I have 33 3/4" wide. How close are those engines? Do you have anything to stop them hitting each other?
See photos
Pete
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MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Take the time to figure it out exactly.. It may be worth the time to set them next to each other on the pallets and square them up to see where they meet. If you select a rubber type mount you will need to allow clearance for the engine to move in the mounts.. If you are going with a plate type solid mount you can position them tighter. Once you confirm those dimensions you can lay out your transom.
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
I have a TRS installation manual I scanned a few pages from.. I am having trouble uploading them for you..I will post as soon as I figure out the problem.
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
I hope you find this helpful.
I had to resize them to get them to load. If you double click on the image it will allow you to zoom some.
I had to resize them to get them to load. If you double click on the image it will allow you to zoom some.
Senor Falcon
New member
Thanks Jim
Thanks Jim, everything you say makes sense. I agree with getting both engines side by side and will be working on that this week. When you say "plate" mountings, what are the "for and against" for using these mountings?
Those pictures are very helpful and if you could email them to me, they will probably be clearer when printed, if you don´t mind. Peter1961@hotmail.co.uk
If they are still wider than the existing, is it possible to move the drive holes an inch or two, by filling in one side (keyed into existing wood and fibreglass) or will I need to replace the entire transom?
Thanks again
Pete
Thanks Jim, everything you say makes sense. I agree with getting both engines side by side and will be working on that this week. When you say "plate" mountings, what are the "for and against" for using these mountings?
Those pictures are very helpful and if you could email them to me, they will probably be clearer when printed, if you don´t mind. Peter1961@hotmail.co.uk
If they are still wider than the existing, is it possible to move the drive holes an inch or two, by filling in one side (keyed into existing wood and fibreglass) or will I need to replace the entire transom?
Thanks again
Pete
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
I have no experience with diesels and have no idea if they use the conventional mounting bolt patterns. If they are the same as the gas BBC or SBC these will work. 72514 is the port side and 72515 is stb. They work well and are widely used. They do however need stringers to accommodate them. Typically they bolt to the stringers with 1/2 aluminum angle. Once set up they become care free. The down side is they take much more time and effort to initially install them and properly align the engines. { in this case with the tight engine compartment it may be near impossible without an engine jig or dummy block }The stock type pedestal rubber mounted type{ that you appear to have already} allow the engine to be adjusted and aligned much easier. They do however allow the engine to move so more clearance is necessary. It will be much easier to use the latter.. The mounting provision you will need to fabricate wont need to be as exact since the mounts allow adjustment. The angle plates get installed to the stringers with the engine { or dummy block } hanging in position.
I checked the paper templates are still available.. Buy a pair of them and mock up the lay out and see how they overlap the existing holes.. My feeling is you will be filling the transom and adding a center stringer. Determine the centerline you are going to use. Layout the transom measure for mount placements and clearances.. It is going to be tight.
I checked the paper templates are still available.. Buy a pair of them and mock up the lay out and see how they overlap the existing holes.. My feeling is you will be filling the transom and adding a center stringer. Determine the centerline you are going to use. Layout the transom measure for mount placements and clearances.. It is going to be tight.
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Pete, Take a look at http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5054. Frank shared much info during his project which is similar to yours.
Below are some pix to show the different mounting configurations I was talking about.
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5054&page=7 post #125 to see what stringers for plate mounts looks like and page 3 post #52 for pedestal mounts.
Below are some pix to show the different mounting configurations I was talking about.
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5054&page=7 post #125 to see what stringers for plate mounts looks like and page 3 post #52 for pedestal mounts.
Senor Falcon
New member
Thanks Jim,
I read the entire thread and was very interested. After reading many threads and many of them saying that the entire transom should be replaced. I feel sure that the only reason to replace all of it, would be if there was any bad wood or glass. In my mind, I was thinking to overlap 1/2 ply x 3 but it looks like 3/4 x 2 is sufficient. Is there a "correct" amount to overlap the joints? and would I need to fill the entire hole or just the inner edge, that´s too close to the centre line? I have also heard that soaking the ply with resin, without catalyst, before the full resin "with catalyst" is used to join them. Is this good practice? It also appears that I need to find a TRS jig, if this is such an impossible task, with a basic template?
By moving the drives outboard, I guess that I can keep the engines far enough apart and not need the offshore mounts? Maybe I should be looking at a centre stringer and the "pedestal mounts"? Making the engines more stable with the hull and not needing that huge "RSJ" style mounting beam?
Thanks for all your help Jim.
Pete
I read the entire thread and was very interested. After reading many threads and many of them saying that the entire transom should be replaced. I feel sure that the only reason to replace all of it, would be if there was any bad wood or glass. In my mind, I was thinking to overlap 1/2 ply x 3 but it looks like 3/4 x 2 is sufficient. Is there a "correct" amount to overlap the joints? and would I need to fill the entire hole or just the inner edge, that´s too close to the centre line? I have also heard that soaking the ply with resin, without catalyst, before the full resin "with catalyst" is used to join them. Is this good practice? It also appears that I need to find a TRS jig, if this is such an impossible task, with a basic template?
By moving the drives outboard, I guess that I can keep the engines far enough apart and not need the offshore mounts? Maybe I should be looking at a centre stringer and the "pedestal mounts"? Making the engines more stable with the hull and not needing that huge "RSJ" style mounting beam?
Thanks for all your help Jim.
Pete
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