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console repair question
- Thread starter Bobcat
- Start date
old377guy
Charter Member
you really meant green shag, didn't you?
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
How crazy do you want to get? It would be nice to lift enough to add and repair with glass.
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
If you want serious answer, it looks like there is enough room under it to slip in a piece of wax paper. If that is true, then you can repair in place.
Rough it up with a chisel or similar, sand the top with really rough sandpaper, slip the wax under, then fill with a mix of chopped glass and resin. should bond okay and be sandable to the proper shape. The closer you get it to the original shape and thickness, the less sanding and re-glassing you will have to do.
When Dave sees this, he'll probably say I'm nuts and to remove the console and do it right.
Rough it up with a chisel or similar, sand the top with really rough sandpaper, slip the wax under, then fill with a mix of chopped glass and resin. should bond okay and be sandable to the proper shape. The closer you get it to the original shape and thickness, the less sanding and re-glassing you will have to do.
When Dave sees this, he'll probably say I'm nuts and to remove the console and do it right.
Buoy
Founding Member
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Maybe you can fix it in place. My guess that there is a mess expending down the edge of the flange . If It can be lifted enough to address from the underside the repair is likely to last longer. I agree removing the console is a pain. I think it is an all or nothing situation. If your just going to add some bondo you might as well save the time your wasting and put some caulk on it.
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
glassdave
Founding Member / Competitor
If you want serious answer, it looks like there is enough room under it to slip in a piece of wax paper. If that is true, then you can repair in place.
Rough it up with a chisel or similar, sand the top with really rough sandpaper, slip the wax under, then fill with a mix of chopped glass and resin. should bond okay and be sandable to the proper shape. The closer you get it to the original shape and thickness, the less sanding and re-glassing you will have to do.
When Dave sees this, he'll probably say I'm nuts and to remove the console and do it right.
no actually thats a good way to go about it . . . your nuts for plenty of other reasons though
if you dont want to pull the console bevel the area back with a small grinder or ball end rasp and make up a paste of coarsely milled fiberglass. You can do a pretty solid repair like this but if you can get one or two layers of 1808 in there it would be better.
Last edited:
Mitcher T
SO Tech Expert/Sponsor
I would do the wax paper and fiberglass route first, then fill with either Tiger Hair or DuraGlass and conform to shape. When you get close, then finish shaping with Icing Glazing/Finishing putty and primer with an epoxy primer and sand to a 400 or 600 grit finish.
When you get to the paint part of it, let me know by a post here, or call me on the phone and I'll walk you through the paint process. Keep your primering to a minimum as far as area covered by strategically masking the area off to rolled edges. Use a 'rolled edge' as a masking edge by rolling your tape edge back, leaving a tubular edge that you spray against. That will alleviate a hard edge that will take longer to feather sand off before you are ready to spray your color.
Take your time on these steps, you won't regret it.
My phone number is;
studio 269-795-2228
cell 269-908-0827
Mitcher T.
When you get to the paint part of it, let me know by a post here, or call me on the phone and I'll walk you through the paint process. Keep your primering to a minimum as far as area covered by strategically masking the area off to rolled edges. Use a 'rolled edge' as a masking edge by rolling your tape edge back, leaving a tubular edge that you spray against. That will alleviate a hard edge that will take longer to feather sand off before you are ready to spray your color.
Take your time on these steps, you won't regret it.
My phone number is;
studio 269-795-2228
cell 269-908-0827
Mitcher T.
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
no actually thats a good way to go about it . . . your nuts for plenty of other reasons though
Oh sure, just don't list them all......
Offshore Ginger
New member
Mitch are you now expanding your horizions on Serious offshore opposed to ( SPEEDWAKE ) and does Jeff know this :seeya::seeya:
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
Mitch are you now expanding your horizions on Serious offshore opposed to ( SPEEDWAKE ) and does Jeff know this :seeya::seeya:
We hope so. Maybe we can give a free MitcherT paint job as a prize for the POTW winner...:26::26::26:
Offshore Ginger
New member
All of you are right butttttttttttttttttt i would grind , fill with capasill or mill fiber , and glass with multiple layers of finish fabric or (chezze cloth ) because even the worst glass guy can work with this fabric and achive structural integrity .:seeya:no actually thats a good way to go about it . . . your nuts for plenty of other reasons though
if you dont want to pull the console bevel the area back with a small grinder or ball end rasp and make up a paste of coarsely milled fiberglass. You can do a pretty solid repair like this but if you can get one or two layers of 1808 in there it would be better.
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
All of you are right butttttttttttttttttt i would fill with capasill and glass with multiple layers of finish fabric or (chezze cloth ) and different strokes for different folks and now i bet you really are confused , ha ha ha ha :seeya:
That's okay, I was confused at birth. Now Bobcat is a different story. He gets confused when he's sober. The rest of the time he doesn't know he's confused, so he doesn't care.
Offshore Ginger
New member
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