Bravo Gimble / Transom kit

I assume you just had your gaskets changed? To change the pan gasket you pretty much have to pull the motor. Unless you have a chain hoist system you are pretty much screwed. Changing gaskets are easy, I have been doing that type of work since I was 14 yrs old. I did have a Dad that tought me how to do a lot of things at a young age. Kids now just want to play video games, my dad and I were working on stuff. I saw you are putting your transom assembly back together good luck with that.

Had my transom assembly rebuilt for $150. He did the gaskets, the bellows (shift and drive) and the water tube and then checked the bearings. There's a Merc tool for the bellows (bellows expander) and to install the water hose.

I was going to do it myself, but I kept scraping my hand on the sharp pointy part of the screwdriver handle. And the big plastic end wouldn't seem to turn any of the screws when I pushed it against them... :sifone:
 
Transom Options

Just reading what you are doing and honestly, you might want to consider buying a new, COMPLETE HD Transom Assy which we can sell you for $2395.97 (w/ or w/out electric trim senders) and is free freight. We can sell you a upgraded Gimbal Ring and Helmet as an option as well, that is ready to install as a kit.

TEAGUE CUSTOM MARINE
661.295.7000
www.teaguecustommarine.com

 
I'm in the middle of a three year restoration of my '88 Donzi 22C Testa Rossa. Its Bravo is apparently one of the first delivered (July '87), and has the pivot shaft grease fittings and drilled swivel pin.
The old pin was worn through the case so I replaced it w/a 17-4 PH SST pin I aquired from eBay.
I wanted to utilize the grease fitting so I had a local machine shop to match the grease holes on the original pin.
You could eyeball the location of the original Merc upper grease fitting. After all this one has lasted almost 23 years.

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Had my transom assembly rebuilt for $150. He did the gaskets, the bellows (shift and drive) and the water tube and then checked the bearings. There's a Merc tool for the bellows (bellows expander) and to install the water hose.

I was going to do it myself, but I kept scraping my hand on the sharp pointy part of the screwdriver handle. And the big plastic end wouldn't seem to turn any of the screws when I pushed it against them... :sifone:
Sorry guys I did not realize people were still posting on this thread. I have been working on the fiberglass and gellcoat.
Sounds like you got a good price on that anyway. Some people just were not meant to work on things. I have alway been able to figure things out, now with websites like this it makes it much easier.
 
Just reading what you are doing and honestly, you might want to consider buying a new, COMPLETE HD Transom Assy which we can sell you for $2395.97 (w/ or w/out electric trim senders) and is free freight. We can sell you a upgraded Gimbal Ring and Helmet as an option as well, that is ready to install as a kit.

TEAGUE CUSTOM MARINE
661.295.7000
www.teaguecustommarine.com


Yea, if money were no object I would be looking that route. I would also like a ext box, external sterring and upgraded drive gears. Not going to happen this year, if jobs pick up maybe in the future.
 
I'm in the middle of a three year restoration of my '88 Donzi 22C Testa Rossa. Its Bravo is apparently one of the first delivered (July '87), and has the pivot shaft grease fittings and drilled swivel pin.
The old pin was worn through the case so I replaced it w/a 17-4 PH SST pin I aquired from eBay.
I wanted to utilize the grease fitting so I had a local machine shop to match the grease holes on the original pin.
You could eyeball the location of the original Merc upper grease fitting. After all this one has lasted almost 23 years.

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OK, this is somthing I may do before I put it back together. It will be a few more weeks before I am back to the mechanicals. How did you get the old sleeve out and replace it? I have found a few aftermarket stainless swivel shafts in the $150 range. I do not have the grease fitting on mine but I would like one.
 
Yep, the pins are about $150 plus shipping....about half the price of a Merc pin.
Actually, I didn't replace the bushing. I could have as I have the drivers to do so, but it wasn't as bad as the pin.
If you scrutinize the picture carefully, you'll see the pin seal is installed upside down....but not anymore. I know some of you guys were probably chuckling!:rolleyes:
Going completely through a gimbal assembly like I did here is actually pretty expensive, changing out every last part. It's probably $800 in parts alone.
I wanted to maintain the original gimbal w/its serial #. The housing itself had corroded through in about three places, so I had it welded up. This was after completely stripping the aluminum castings and digging out all the corrosion pits, and after welding and smoothing, epoxy priming, and painting w/BASF R-M UNO-HD acrilyc/polyurethane single stage paint, which is color matched to the hull gel.
Good luck with yours
 
does that pin seal remove and replace easily....weve got our gimbal ring out for replacement along with the pin. any tips on what "should" be done with all this. most of our bushings felt tight. gimbal ring had some wear and was loosening up so thats why we pulled it.
can the upper part or the pin, where it meets the tiller arm, wear similar to the gimbal ring if it wasnt properly tightened?
thanks!!
 
does that pin seal remove and replace easily....weve got our gimbal ring out for replacement along with the pin. any tips on what "should" be done with all this. most of our bushings felt tight. gimbal ring had some wear and was loosening up so thats why we pulled it.
can the upper part or the pin, where it meets the tiller arm, wear similar to the gimbal ring if it wasnt properly tightened?
thanks!!

I'd replace everything you can see - gimbal bearing, bellows, shift bellows. Then you can rest easy for years...

Yes, the seal replaces easily. If it doesn't come out it is simply corroded in there.

I would think the pin could certainly wear, and they do rust and continue to tear up that seal, but the ring is probably a more prone wear area than the pin.

the guy on www.jrmarine.com sells a VERY affordable all SS pin.
 
Seafordguy is right. The seal comes out easily. I always glue them in.
If you look at the old pin on the right, look at the upper small bearing surface and you can easily see where the case hardening wore through and the surface looks grainy. Actually both bearing surfaces are worn.
Time for everything new.
 
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