endeavor1
New member
:cuss: :banghead: :03: :ack2: :icon_bs: :willy_nilly: :huh: :reddevil: :sifone: Dick....LOL
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Where are they
- Thread starter wet_rat
- Start date
:cuss: :banghead: :03: :ack2: :icon_bs: :willy_nilly: :huh: :reddevil: :sifone: Dick....LOL
I thought the 6's and trannies were pretty indestructible. Had a buddy fry a tranny. Got it fixed. Then he lost a prop shaft bearing when some minor rust formed on the prop shaft and wore out the prop shaft water shield. He always washed this area but minor amounts of salt water penetrated the water shield and you can't wash it out without opening the shield. Probably not near as big a prob in the fresh water, but keep an eye on it. Maybe the #8's will be bullet proof - LOL - NOT!!!! Wonder if anyone has done any Arneson to #6 "big power" comparisons?
Coolerman
Charter Member
LOL, I was actually being kinda serious. We've already grenaded 1 #6 and I lost count on the trannies, I wanna say 4 of em?....... We do keep 2 spare trannies though.
Hey Tommy, I'd be curious as to how arnesons would run.....
I saw Arnesons this weekend on a tv show on a 78' boat that runs 55 mph. They looked much larger than typical power boat Arnesons. One concern I have is the trim limits. Sometimes I will trim the drives a bit to take larger waves better. I just don't know about the trim / steering limits with Anresons. Heard they have or will have a Bravo direct bolt on conversion. I hear you can throw some power at the Arnesons. Seems to me that the hull really must work well to use Arnesons cause of no skeg and such-just a direct push from the rear. You gettin your trannies done by the guy near Baton Rouge?
Coolerman
Charter Member
The bravo to arneson in short is not just a bolt on...... you have to reglass the transom and possibly fill in the notch, move the motors around. It's about the same work as putting on 6's, and 6's will handle more power than the arneson conversion (asd6's and 7's). Also, the bravo conversion from arneson has a deep skeg on it. Not sure about the asd 8-10's...... Those either have skegs or fins on the sides.
Also, we have Bam and Huber trannies. We think we like the bams better because they have a deeper sump, and if the pump looses pressure, the bams recover more quickly.
Was just on their website reading about them. The conversion is a direct bolt on according to them for my set up. I don't have the notch. Holes line up with Bravo holes. Trans is in the furnished standoff box. 1 yr warranty with a 750 max torque rating. What hp motor would that be? About 800 hp?
endeavor1
New member
Tommy, post pix of your transom. I know its different than mine but i want to see. I sent Rik pics of my 43's transom and he was thinking i would have to fill in the notch, and possibly lower my engines to get the right height. I did however speak to Bob last week and he indicated that your version of a 46 is better suited to run arnesons and that he thinks they would work well.
Cost, 24-26k each though makes me strongly think that an older wetsump 6 is a cheaper route, and as the Sax has pointed out, there are #6 boat 46 Extended cockpits out and about
BDARCHER
New member
tabs look to be mounted high
Coolerman
Charter Member
part of the reason why the tabs are mounted that high is because that was all the lower you used to be able to mount them before BT dropped the outside chines. Tommy's boat I think was the first of the new hulls with the dropped outside chines. BT should have dropped the tabs along with that.
Also, the dropped chines will help the boat plane better due to the fact that it helps lift the stern out of the water.
endeavor1
New member
So, The 5 blades on my new one should help lift her ass up and lay the nose down but would partially filling the notch be a worthwhile project? Big difference in the chines between the years!!!!!
If you're running big power and speed, the notched transom is gonna feed water to the props very well. The notched transom I was in just didn't maintain a slow speed (in the 20's) speed very well. BT also doubled the steps height in 06 along with transom mods. Gonna have to ask a hull expert on whether filling it in will help. Maybe PM Steve David on OSO. He helped design the 06 hull. As a safety note, always watch those high speed turns with a stepped hull, big power, and big props. The ass end can get away from you!
endeavor1
New member
Ive been in a 98 big step 42 fountain and spun but i can honestly tell you that at wide open throttle, I have gone full lock in my old 43 tall deck and the old girl just dug in and turned like normal. Given, i kept my drives trimmed out and never tucked them in but BTs are very forgiving boats IMO
Coolerman
Charter Member
Just want to make sure that proper credit is given where due, the chines are what made the BT's maintain a slow speed crawl, and that idea was from us. It acounted for roughly 80% of the fix. I know Steve has had alot of input with props and x-dimension, but I just want to make sure that credit goes where it is due for the implemented hull mods.
The filling in of the notch helps, but dropping the chines essiantially reduces deadrise and make the back part of the boat flatter. Not only does it go faster because of the better angle of attack from more lift from the chines, but it is more stable as well because the back portion of the boat is essiantially flatter. It gives the boat a bigger footprint to sit on.
In the first pic, here is a rendering giving an idea of what the chines of the first generation 46's looked looked like (what Endeavor has). The 2nd pic is the 2nd generation BT's (what John P has), where they had added some strakes just below the chines. The filling/dropping of the chines though was the biggest help and addition to the adding of the strakes. You can see how much material was added and how much lift and stability that will improve.
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Coolerman
Charter Member
It would be interesting to see what dropping the chines would do on your boat and trying 6 blades with shorties, leaving the notch as is. The 6 blades might be tougher on drives though
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Coolerman
Charter Member
lol, yours would then be the 3rd generation hull! You sure you want 1800's and 6's?..... Both of them would break :driving::sifone::sifone:
Rik
Sponsor / Charter Member
???
One should try installing the #6's. Way more work, way more cost as the price of the Arneson's new include a transmission, the #6's used or new do not include these along with the necessary bell housing and drive plate and such that will be needed. One has to move the engines forward about 18" with the Merc #6's also, not the same with the Arnesons. The price will keep escalating with them once you factor in all that you will need. List on the Arneson kit is only 23K.
Our standoff box covers the Bravo cutout so there is no glassing required.
