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Looking at tow rigs... what would you buy?

as in 22.5 inch diamter rims?

Not so sure. Kind of an old school person. What do they look like?

Meanwhile... looks like I lost the lower coolant hose. Dripping a little from under there and that hose looks suspicious. Bummer. But I was going to have it flushed and filled anyway.
 
fund razor said:
as in 22.5 inch diamter rims?

Not so sure. Kind of an old school person. What do they look like?

Meanwhile... looks like I lost the lower coolant hose. Dripping a little from under there and that hose looks suspicious. Bummer. But I was going to have it flushed and filled anyway.
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All the cool kids are doing it
 
Buizilla is who turned me on to the additive tips. I was replacing sticking injectors right and left. I called him looking for competitive pricing. He turned me on to that trick and in 500 miles the sticking injectors all went away. At $2400 an engine just in parts, I'd say it was a good tip.

If Jim told me to piss in the tank, I'd buy a nice step stool.
 
fund razor said:
Ah crap. You are the second person to bust me on that today. :D

Changed the front and rear diff, plus the transfer case today. Synthetic on the diffs and ATF in the transfer case. It seemed like they were not done at 50,000 miles. I am glad that I jumped right on that. Thanks for the advice guys.
So far: Oil change, diesel treatment, power steering fluid top off, washer fluid line repair, front diff, rear diff, transfer case, and double check winterization.
Friday I will have them flush the tranny. Saturday I am having the brakes checked. Then I should be good for now... as far as preventative catch ups go. The DIC says that the fuel filter is at 25% remaining. I'd like to have that changed too.
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How are they flushing the tranny? Pretty sure you cannot hook up those flushing machines they use on an Allison. Most guys unhook the output tranny cooler line and let the pump evacuate the old fluid. Obviously you have to be careful using this method not to run the tranny dry. You start it up and let it pump out so many quarts then shut down, add some ATF, restart, pump some more, repeat until fluid comes out clean. Supposedly the filter in the pan on the valve body never needs replaced unless you are doing a rebuild. At 95K I personally would pull the pan to inspect how much material is in the bottom and clean it. And if you have the pan off, why not change the internal filter?
 
Expensive Date said:
Fund you are going nuts for nothing.The thing has probably been driven without aditives for four years one more week won't hurt.Just run anti-gel and do a full service engine oil, trans, diff ,coolant etc.You should be fine.
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EXACTLY!!!!!!! Did you get the D-max manual??? Read what it says about additives!!!!!
 
Chris said:
Buizilla is who turned me on to the additive tips. I was replacing sticking injectors right and left. I called him looking for competitive pricing. He turned me on to that trick and in 500 miles the sticking injectors all went away. At $2400 an engine just in parts, I'd say it was a good tip.

If Jim told me to piss in the tank, I'd buy a nice step stool.
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Gotcha. :D
 
Bill said:
Common, very common! Junk GM tranny cooler line hoses, the piss ass poor crimps go bad! I have been through several sets and I only have 30K on my 06!!! There is a TSB on them...
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That's good to know. This appears to be the lower radiator hose, this time.

For the record.... my Mercedes 560sl tranny cooler lines were crap too. :driving:
 
Expensive Date said:
Fund you are going nuts for nothing.The thing has probably been driven without aditives for four years one more week won't hurt.Just run anti-gel and do a full service engine oil, trans, diff ,coolant etc.You should be fine.
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:willy_nilly::willy_nilly: :willy_nilly:

Damn John, I feel like Im watching the final secconds of a horse race. Relax bud, dont make it any harder than it needs to be. Congrats on the new ride.
 
fund razor said:
That's good to know. This appears to be the lower radiator hose, this time.

For the record.... my Mercedes 560sl tranny cooler lines were crap too. :driving:
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Not saying you are wrong, but the tranny cooler lines run up to the radiator for the tranny cooler. GM blames it on the colder weather... If you do a search on www.dieselplace.com there are some who have had lines made with better ends, not the crimps to eliminate the problem.
 
Bill said:
Not saying you are wrong, but the tranny cooler lines run up to the radiator for the tranny cooler. GM blames it on the colder weather... If you do a search on www.dieselplace.com there are some who have had lines made with better ends, not the crimps to eliminate the problem.
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I'll check em too. I just have a strong feeling about the lower main coolant hose because I could see that they changed the upper, never changed the lower, and it has a bulge and a stain.

I appreciate the tip on the tranny cooler lines. I'll check that out.
 
Knot 4 Me said:
How are they flushing the tranny? Pretty sure you cannot hook up those flushing machines they use on an Allison. Most guys unhook the output tranny cooler line and let the pump evacuate the old fluid. Obviously you have to be careful using this method not to run the tranny dry. You start it up and let it pump out so many quarts then shut down, add some ATF, restart, pump some more, repeat until fluid comes out clean. Supposedly the filter in the pan on the valve body never needs replaced unless you are doing a rebuild. At 95K I personally would pull the pan to inspect how much material is in the bottom and clean it. And if you have the pan off, why not change the internal filter?
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Maybe I'll wait until the weather warms up a little and do the tranny myself. My first thought was to have em do one of those flushes. Thanks for the tip.
 
fund razor said:
Maybe I'll wait until the weather warms up a little and do the tranny myself. My first thought was to have em do one of those flushes. Thanks for the tip.
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You can just use two buckets also.One with new one empty for old.

One more important thing to do.You have gotten rid of your 1/2 ton and bought a dually so go though all the towing threads and tell everyone they need a dually.:)
 
Crap. My regular guy can't touch it. (Coolant hose) His biggest lift can only do 10,000 lbs, and he figures this truck is 11,400. They don't have enough room without the lift I guess.

I asked if he would just lift the front and he said no. :(
 
Tony said:
Call a commercial truck repair shop, or a fleet maintanence co.
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I think that I have found a guy. Referral from a friend in LEOPA.

Heck... my guy at Firestone can't even put TIRES on this sumbinch.

I need a list of Chris' heavy lift clients. :D
 
fund razor said:
Crap. My regular guy can't touch it. (Coolant hose) His biggest lift can only do 10,000 lbs, and he figures this truck is 11,400. They don't have enough room without the lift I guess.

I asked if he would just lift the front and he said no. :(
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Don't confuse the GVW sticker with the actual curb weight, subtract the payload capacity from the GVW sticker and that gets a pretty close curb weight estimate.

After KW, I rolled through the scale house at 23k in a crew cab f450 with two scooters in the bed, luggage, full fuel, 10,500 boat, steel trailer and probably some other junk in the bed.

I would say a crew cab dually 4x4 diesel is less than 8k with everyday stuff in it.

I actually found the specs for your truck...

•Curb weight: 2,972kg (6,552lbs)
•Exterior body width: 2,441mm (96.1")
•Exterior length: 6,566mm (258.5")
•GVWR: 5,171kg (11,400lbs)
•Rear hiproom: 1,598mm (62.9")
•Rear legroom: 993mm (39.1")
•Rear headroom: 991mm (39.0")
•Exterior height: 1,963mm (77.3")
•Wheelbase: 4,242mm (167.0")
•Front legroom: 1,049mm (41.3")
•Rear shoulder room: 1,654mm (65.1")
•Turning radius: 8.5m (27.9')
•Front shoulder room: 1,656mm (65.2")
•Front hiproom: 1,560mm (61.4")
•Front headroom: 1,041mm (41.0")
 
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