Had a fiberglass man redo my hull with composite and it has waves in the hull going from front to back starting where the hull makes the transition to going flat . Do I need to redo it. The waves are about a foot apart and about 1/16" to 1/8"from top off wave to the valley and travels about a 6' span. What will this cause.http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forums/images/smilies/huh.gif
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Waves in hull do I need to redo it
- Thread starter morepower
- Start date
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
My first thought is what kind of boat and how fast does it go? Pictures would be helpful.
Offshore Ginger
New member
Do you know if your glass guy long boarded the surface ......because the longer the board that is being used the straighter the surface ..........opposed to using a smaller board which often will give a wash board effect .
Offshore Ginger
New member
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Don't know if you can see them. Boat is a 24' Python and goes 70. I don't know what he used but at this point it's moot, I would assume all he did was grind it. I just put my stringers in and was adjusting my bunks when I noticed it. I have it upside down to fix a stress crack and to sand the oxidation. 
MOBILEMERCMAN
Founding Member / Competitor
Pictures are too small to see anything. Not every boat has a perfectly straight bottom. At 70 mph it is less critical then on a boat that goes 90 or more. The faster you go the more perfect it needs to be.
It is hard to give good advise on things of this nature without more info and better pictures. Another thing I am curious about is the sequence of repairs. Who did what and in what order? Whenever major repairs are done like stringers exterior surfaces have the potential to move. Are all structural repairs complete?
So far IMO with available info recommendations could range from it may not matter to you should true the bottom while it is upside down.
It is hard to give good advise on things of this nature without more info and better pictures. Another thing I am curious about is the sequence of repairs. Who did what and in what order? Whenever major repairs are done like stringers exterior surfaces have the potential to move. Are all structural repairs complete?
So far IMO with available info recommendations could range from it may not matter to you should true the bottom while it is upside down.
Ratickle
Founding Member / Super Moderator
I can only give a small, probably worthless, opinion from what I can see and what you have described. If there are no imperfections in the 6' span immediately in front of the transom, don't worry about it. If there is a 1/8" dip in that 6' area immediately in front of the transom, make sure your stringers, transom, and bulkheads in that back area are in good shape. And, if so, fix it to flat while it's upside down..
Offshore Ginger
New member
Bottom line is ....................better pics will help, and to tell you the truth a straight edge made from Aluminum stock will better serve its purpose opposed to a level that will warp , bend or flex over a period of time , and if your stringers , transom , etc , etc , are in bad shape , rotted , or need's to be replaced .........i would skip doing the bottom at this time ,and focus on those areas of concern ~ because in the past i have seen hulls distort ( bottoms) from not being properly supported along the keel , chimes , and transom , even if they are on a trailer at this time when getting new stringers and or a transom . Paul , quit throwing yourself under the bus because we do value your opinion
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Try the pictures again. The hull is basically complete. He put the composite on the hull then the transom then glassed hull and transom. I put the stringers in last week not knowing of the waves, started moving my bunks to sit properly on the trailer and oh sh!!. I really don't know what to do at this point.
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Offshore Ginger
New member
Morepower , am i correct in saying that you had the bottom Blueprinted before re-placing the stringers , intermittent's and transom ,and to answer you question ...........on what to do at this point in time really depends on you ,and just curious how big of a gap is between the hull and the straight edge and to be honest with out sounding rude if this was my boat or a customer's ............ most likely it would be addressed at this time .
Offshore Ginger
New member
Morepower , just a quick mention and that is ..........the hook ( area ) shown is your pics is your running surface and could possibly effect overall performance and when your glass guy did your strakes along the running surface ..............did he make them somewhat sharp ?
on what to do at this point in time really depends on you ,and just curious how big of a gap is between the hull and the straight edge and to be honest with out sounding rude if this was my boat or a customer's ............ most likely it would be addressed at this time .[/QUOTE]
Ginger, depends on me. I want it done right, whatever needs to be done, oh blue printing the stringers was I suppose to do that, used the old stingers to make a template. How is blue printing the bottom done. When you say it would be addressed at this time are you referring to scrapping the hull. Not sure what you are asking about the strakes, sharp on the inside of the hull. Oh by the way the glass guy shot is wife and turned the gun on his self about 3 months ago just after he did my boat.
Ginger, depends on me. I want it done right, whatever needs to be done, oh blue printing the stringers was I suppose to do that, used the old stingers to make a template. How is blue printing the bottom done. When you say it would be addressed at this time are you referring to scrapping the hull. Not sure what you are asking about the strakes, sharp on the inside of the hull. Oh by the way the glass guy shot is wife and turned the gun on his self about 3 months ago just after he did my boat.
Offshore Ginger
New member
Ha Ha Ha , and most likely.......... that will be the closest i ever get to owning one LOL.
Offshore Ginger
New member
First off lets take a few small steps at this time # 1 the hull does not NEED to be scrapped . # 2 when ever you blue print a hull or bottom ~ there is no need to address the stringer's because the stringer system essentially is the back bone of the boat ( inside ) structurally holding everything together . # 3 whenever i blue print a hull i alway's try to make the outer edge of the strake as sharp as possible . ( running surface / bottom ) #4 Are you planning on doing this your self , and if so go to post 5 and take a look once again at the file board i use when doing this type of work which has the longer sanding pad ~ because once again the longer the board the straighter the surface and if you like i can and will talk you thru this whole process ( step by step ) and before i go any further with this post is the bottom in paint or gel ?
Okay Artie, the boat is gel. Am I doing this myself depends on how much you would charge me LOL. How complex of a job is it and what would I expect to pay for it. I don't have a problem buying the tools but I don't want to get over my head. Can you tell me the steps.
Thanks
Bryan
Thanks
Bryan
Buoy
Founding Member
If I had waves in my hull, I'd invest in a good bilge pump
Seriously, it doesn't look that bad to me, but I know nothing, and I'm not looking to spend $10,000 to gain 2 mph.
As long as the hull doesn't track plucked up, or feel unsafe, I wouldn't worry about it.
But, I'm not building a race boat.
That's just me.
Seriously, it doesn't look that bad to me, but I know nothing, and I'm not looking to spend $10,000 to gain 2 mph.
As long as the hull doesn't track plucked up, or feel unsafe, I wouldn't worry about it.
But, I'm not building a race boat.
That's just me.
Offshore Ginger
New member
In ,regards to post #19 if you can live with it so......................be it..........because that is your choice , and contrary to what was mentioned above the best bang for the buck opposed to having motor mods done is blue-printing your bottom .............................................Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm $$$$ 10- K..............................................
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