Gantry Crane

Seafordguy

Charter Member
Thought I'd post this for anyone that might be pulling their engines this spring.

Having measured my boat several times I determined that I think I can fit the one below around it and for the price I am not sure it can be beat - BUT, the reason I am posting this is because I just walked out of the local store and ordered it and was able to talk the lady into honoring a 20% off sale they were having that ended on Monday.

Coupon Link: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...l&r=0000_000000&cust=00000000000&keycode=0000

Crane Link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66273

That means that this only set me back about 320. Thought I'd share if anyone else wants to try their luck.....
 
It's high enough, but it's 7 ft 10 inches wide......your boat is 8 ft 6 inches wide and the trailer could add a little more!!! :banghead:
 
It's high enough, but it's 7 ft 10 inches wide......your boat is 8 ft 6 inches wide and the trailer could add a little more!!! :banghead:

It's wide enough I believe, going to be tight, but I measured it a couple times.....

I might take the trailer fenders off if they interfere.

Don't rain on my parade Russ.....

Oh - and P.S. - my boat is only 8'. I don't need that extra 6" to accomodate my massive windshield!!!:26:

The 8' beam is at the front of the cockpit, it tapers enough in the back....
 

Attachments

  • cigarettecaferacerad.jpg
    cigarettecaferacerad.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 26
My wife bought me this one for my Birthday <I think> last year. Plenty of room for a boat, BUT, won't spread wide enough to get past the tires/fenders. If they would have only made it 6" wider, a non issue.
In fact, I've been looking for a trolley that holds an electric hoist. Already have the one with the hook.
 
My wife bought me this one for my Birthday <I think> last year. Plenty of room for a boat, BUT, won't spread wide enough to get past the tires/fenders. If they would have only made it 6" wider, a non issue.
In fact, I've been looking for a trolley that holds an electric hoist. Already have the one with the hook.

My thought was worse case scenario remove the fender and back tire. Since it doesn't have a wide spread (like an A-frame design) I figured it would most likely tuck in around the axle if nothing else.

How was the quality? Feel sturdy enough to lift ~1200 lbs?
 
It may also work if you put it on a 45 degree angle off one side and he back.
As long as it centers over the engine C.G..
 
It's one thing to buy a cheap Chinese impact that in the worst case is a non-functioning POS- or wears out in a year. It's another to buy something that you'll be lifting objects and standing underneath them.

We had one of the Harbor Freight floor jacks in the shop. It came in somehow and it was one of those "it won't get used much..." things so what could it hurt. It was rated at 5000 lbs. It collapsed with about 2/3rds of that weight on it. Literally bent like a pretzel. Fortunately it was just going up so all that happened is the truck fell sideways about 18" and onto its own tires.

I deal with ANSI and ASME construction standards and compliance issues on a daily basis. Trust me when I tell you that the U.S. market is being flooded with non-compliant goods by the containerload. There is nothing protecting you from these products. In fact, the obligation is on the purchaser to know the requirements and purchase only qualifying products.

As far as assuming there's a safety margin engineered into ANY product, the only way you can safely expect that is if the product was built under an audited certification program based on a national consensus standard that includes 3rd party testing and verification.
 
Since we're on this topic, you should be aware of the other issues involved with overhead lifting. There are standards in place that dictate the materials and construction of all the componentry involved. Chain, cabes and straps all come with varying capabilities and certifications. One chain with 1/2" thickness links may not carry as much weight as another with 1/4" thickness.

The only chain rated for overhead lifting is Gr80.

It's an old adage, but it's certainly true. ...only as strong as its weakest link.
 
It's one thing to buy a cheap Chinese impact that in the worst case is a non-functioning POS- or wears out in a year. It's another to buy something that you'll be lifting objects and standing underneath them.

We had one of the Harbor Freight floor jacks in the shop. It came in somehow and it was one of those "it won't get used much..." things so what could it hurt. It was rated at 5000 lbs. It collapsed with about 2/3rds of that weight on it. Literally bent like a pretzel. Fortunately it was just going up so all that happened is the truck fell sideways about 18" and onto its own tires.

I deal with ANSI and ASME construction standards and compliance issues on a daily basis. Trust me when I tell you that the U.S. market is being flooded with non-compliant goods by the containerload. There is nothing protecting you from these products. In fact, the obligation is on the purchaser to know the requirements and purchase only qualifying products.

As far as assuming there's a safety margin engineered into ANY product, the only way you can safely expect that is if the product was built under an audited certification program based on a national consensus standard that includes 3rd party testing and verification.

In fairness I had that happen with a Snap On jack as well. was lifting my truck. Scarred the chit out of me!!
 
Since we're on this topic, you should be aware of the other issues involved with overhead lifting. There are standards in place that dictate the materials and construction of all the componentry involved. Chain, cabes and straps all come with varying capabilities and certifications. One chain with 1/2" thickness links may not carry as much weight as another with 1/4" thickness.

The only chain rated for overhead lifting is Gr80.

It's an old adage, but it's certainly true. ...only as strong as its weakest link.

Another old adage that is certainly true ... you get what you pay for.
 
I modified a cherry picker. Replaced the spine with 3x3x.25 and replaced the boom with 2x4x.25 square tubing. I didn't pull the engine with the chains all the way out, they were in the next holes back. I need to put some outriggers on it, my biggest fear was the motor would start swinging side to side and topple over, but moving slowly things went good. Now the cheap '1000' lb engine stand I bought at harbor freight folded over when I put the weight from the motor on it, had to stick some 4x4's under the engine mounts to keep it from completely buckling.

Picture012.jpg
 
Thought I'd post this for anyone that might be pulling their engines this spring.

Having measured my boat several times I determined that I think I can fit the one below around it and for the price I am not sure it can be beat - BUT, the reason I am posting this is because I just walked out of the local store and ordered it and was able to talk the lady into honoring a 20% off sale they were having that ended on Monday.

Coupon Link: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...l&r=0000_000000&cust=00000000000&keycode=0000

Crane Link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66273

That means that this only set me back about 320. Thought I'd share if anyone else wants to try their luck.....

My buddie Mike bought that gantry a few years ago to pull/install the engines in his 37' Outerlimits. I helped him pull the engines when he did it.

He welded extensions and modified the upper plates to make the gantry 6" wider and also welded in gussets on the bottom where he could install a bar to keep the gantry from spreading out under load and it worked perfectly. He also bought the trolley and come-along.

Frank
 
Back
Top