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cig1988

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Dave
I may be painting some steel dump truck bodys over the winter. There is a ton of pits and surface rust. Rather than sand blast I was going to DA the areas in question. I was thinking of applying an expoxy base primer to seal and topcoat with Imron. Any suggestions? This does not need to be "show" quality but durable as possible. As you can see there are nooks and crannys that a DA will not reach which will require some manual sanding.
 

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I would really try to blast it or atleast spot blast, thats gonna be tough to DA. Or maybe maybe a 3 inch angle grinder? For primer use PPG's DP-48 (white) or DP-50 (i think thats the grey one) epoxy primer.
 
Zinc Chromate for primer and then save your self enough on paint to go boating next year by using a industrial epoxy that Sherwin Williams sells.The epoxy is hard as steel and binds very well.Its 75 bucks for 2 gallons and is mixed 1 to 1.I have sprayed tons of stuff with it and every thing has held up like new it is the chit at a deal of the century price.
 
glassdave said:
I would really try to blast it or atleast spot blast, thats gonna be tough to DA. Or maybe maybe a 3 inch angle grinder? For primer use PPG's DP-48 (white) or DP-50 (i think thats the grey one) epoxy primer.
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I was thinking spot blast as well hardlining duct tape on the inner edges to avoid painstaking feather edging. Thoughts? The DP-50 should fill in the roughness of the blasting I asume if sprayed correctly.
 
tommymonza said:
Zinc Chromate for primer and then save your self enough on paint to go boating next year by using a industrial epoy that Sherwin Williams sells.The epoxy is hard as steel and binds very well.Its 75 bucks for 2 gallons and is mixed 1 to 1.I have sprayed tons of stuff with it and every thing has held up like new it is the chit at a deal of the century price.
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How does this hold up compared to Imron?
 
Very very good.Why do you want Imron? Durability ?If you insist on a namebrand i would take Awlgrip for durability over Imron.
But if it was mine i would save a 1000 bucks and spray it with the Sherwin Williams
 
One of my clients operates a fleet of several hundred salt spreader trucks. They have tried everything over the decades. They blast the bodies (which then necessitates a re-wire of the cab-back electricals) and then primes with POR-15. They overcoat in Imron.

We paint alot of equipment- I use Chassis-Saver and then overcoat with Rustoleum 9100 epoxy and get great results. If we do the refinish on a machine in-place, it can't be blasted. We do the whole unit with a twisted wire brush on an angle grinder, then use a needle scaler to get in to the tighter corners, then a good washdown with lacquer thinner, then prep-sol. If the rust is tight, Chassis-Saver penetrates it and seals it.

I've tried the Sherwin but our results with the Rustoleum warrant the additional cost. Imron is a modified urethane and is a bit more chip-resistant, but will wear through more quickly.
 
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Chris said:
One of my clients operates a fleet of several hundred salt spreader trucks. They have tried everything over the decades. They blast the bodies (which then necessitates a re-wire of the cab-back electricals) and then primes with POR-15. They overcoat in Imron.

We paint alot of equipment- I use Chassis-Saver and then overcoat with Rustoleum 9100 epoxy and get great results. If we do the refinish on a machine in-place, it can't be blasted. We do the whole unit with a twisted wire brush on an angle grinder, then use a needle scaler to get in to the tighter corners, then a good washdown with lacquer thinner, then prep-sol. If the rust is tight, Chassis-Saver penetrates it and seals it.

I've tried the Sherwin but our results with the Rustoleum warrant the additional cost. Imron is a modified urethane and is a bit more chip-resistant, but will wear through more quickly.
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Chris
Do you have a link for chassis saver and some pics of the finished product?
 
The por-15 will definately hold up well, and you don't have to remove all of the rust. It is rather pricey though.
 
Anything I'd have would be topcoated- and it would look like big, ugly industrial machinery. We put it on with a 1/4" nap roller and it flows out well- at least well enough for our purposes. Chassis Saver is less expensive than POR.
 
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