Finally got to splash the b!tch tonight

Tony

Founding Member
After two years of wrenching/screaming I fiinally splashed the Cig toight, only had time for about an hour of running.

Good part is, with all the weight shed from using aluminum parts it actually sounds like a powerboat instead of the gurgling, sputtering, boat is drowning from tips being just under the waterline sound. The boat planes off right at 2k which was unheard of before. I ran it for about half an hour at idle in gear with half an hour of 2 to 3k RPM inbetween.

Some points to ponder: Running on the hose I had what I thought was reversion isssues in one motor. After pulling the SM full length risers off tonight it was clearly condesation and only showing on the top half of the elbow on one side and the top half of the elbow extending down the top half of the riser about half the overall length on the other side. The rest of both pipes and both manifolds were dry as a bone. On the SBC manifolds the supplied rubber jumper hoses seem to be a tad bit kinked at the bend. Could this be the culprit of over/ under pressure at the point of entry into the riser jacket?

Seccondly, The "drilled" 160 degree Hardin T stats never made above 140 degrees on either motor "verified by IR thermometer". Could this be becase of the holes drilled?

Last, The 212 degree Hardin oil T stats never made oil temp above 200 degrees "again verified by an IR gun" Oil temp dropped down to about 150 once back at idle in gear. Cold oil pressure at startup is roughly 60psi per side, after 15 min at 3k rpm it dropped to about 25psi at idle and rose to 35-40 after running back at idle for a minute or two.

Somewhere between the block adapter output and the oil T stat input leaks like a sieve on both motors at temp, I knew this before from running on the hose, most likely an AN to AN seal problem.
 

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Congrats on getting her back in the water!!
Motors look great.
You had to expect a few little gremlins to iron out.
Had to feel great running her again.
 
The water temp can vary greatly depending on where your sensors are. I wouldn't worry about that until you are running more cruise and WOT tests. Just make sure your oil temps are warm when hitting it.

On the AN fittings. Chris knows more about those than anyone else on the board. PM him. Sounds like the high pressure/low pressure fitting match-up issue, but he should know more.

I'm assuming your sentence about oil temps and pressures was a liitle mixed up because you were excited. Temps rose up to 135 to 140 and pressure stayed at 25 PSI at idle after the engine was warm?
 
Congrats dude... now get to kelleys!!

Spend the rest of the season working out all and any bugs so you can have fun with us next year like the old days... I miss watching you stare down your bottle of Corona while trying to stand up!
 
Congrats! First time out is a little nerve racking isn't it. I know first time I got mine on plane after all of the glass work, engine, etc. etc. I was nervous wreck.
 
Wow, that clear engine hatch is so CLEAR, its invisible :)

On your oil leaks, are you sure you have AN to AN and not AN to SAE fittings in the T stat blocks?
 
Yup, Russell fittings on the T stats and Aeroquip on everything else. Heres the kicker, the Aeroquip hose ends to Russel fittings on the T stat ports dont leak. The leak has to be comming from either the upper cone of the T stat itself, or the M Aeroquip to M Russell fitting that is connected by an Aeroquip double female coupler. Both motors are leaking in the exact same place.
 
Can you isolate the connector M to M by wrapping it in a small taped on rag or something to isolate the leak location?
 
Might have to try that, this business of stripping the exhaust completely off to get to theese things is starting to get old. One other thing Im wondering, with 212 degree T stats why did my oil never make it past 200 degrees? And why did it cool back down to 150 at idle? Toil temp sender is bushed into the oil pan drain plug hole.
 
Might have to try that, this business of stripping the exhaust completely off to get to theese things is starting to get old. One other thing Im wondering, with 212 degree T stats why did my oil never make it past 200 degrees? And why did it cool back down to 150 at idle? Toil temp sender is bushed into the oil pan drain plug hole.

Mine act similar. You're measuring the temp away from the thermostat. The thermostat opens and closes based on what it sees, not what the temp sensor sees. 200 is a decent temp, 150 is a little cool, but I bet it's also a misread because of location. The thermostat is reading temp on the way into the cooler. My guess, your pickup is reading temp after the cooler before full engine circulation.
 
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