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Drill bits
- Thread starter Knot 4 Me
- Start date
glassdave
Founding Member / Competitor
Get a Drill Doctor and just buy good quality bits. Go to an industrial supply place instead of the run of the mill box store although it is still possible to get a decent bit there. I dont know any brand names off hand. I bought a Drill Doc last year and its pretty handy once you figure it out.
Expensive Date
New member
I got some of those as samples was not impressed.I have found the Irwin turbomax hold up well but like dave said get a drill doctor.The turbomax are split point so you will lose that when sharpened but they will still work
Buy your bits from an industrial supply. If you get a good TiCN bit you'll be OK If you buy the cobalt bits, they're typically going to be disappointing- simply because they're more sensitive to cutting speeds and lubrication. And they're brittle. In a hand drill, you have a good chance of shattering them.
I mentioned cutting speeds before. If you're drilling steel and off either way on cutting speed, you'll dull the bit very quickly. Lubrication is key as well. Lubrication is a misnomer- it's primarily a coolant. The actual contact surface at the bit is quite small and the temps go pretty high. Cutting oils help move the heat away.
Lastly, the tip angle needs to math the material.
For an excellent selection of bits at good prices and next-day delivery just about everywhere, go to- http://www.mcmaster.com/
On cutting speeds- http://its.fvtc.edu/MachShop1/drillpress/cutspeeds.htm
I mentioned cutting speeds before. If you're drilling steel and off either way on cutting speed, you'll dull the bit very quickly. Lubrication is key as well. Lubrication is a misnomer- it's primarily a coolant. The actual contact surface at the bit is quite small and the temps go pretty high. Cutting oils help move the heat away.
Lastly, the tip angle needs to math the material.
For an excellent selection of bits at good prices and next-day delivery just about everywhere, go to- http://www.mcmaster.com/
On cutting speeds- http://its.fvtc.edu/MachShop1/drillpress/cutspeeds.htm
Sunsation96
Charter Member
Greenlee greenlee greenlee if you did not understand greenlee:sifone: I have drilled thru boiler plate I beams and that darn thing keeps going. Also lenox makes some really nice stuff If you get a chance try thier razor blades you can perform surgery with thise things. Stainless steel and won't break and the hole saws rock too.
Bits
Let get a good baseline here to make sure we are comparing apples to road apples. What kind of underwear are you wearing?? :sifone:
Let get a good baseline here to make sure we are comparing apples to road apples. What kind of underwear are you wearing?? :sifone:
I don't know whether to be disturbed, frightened, or flattered that you asked. :leaving: :sifone: What was Bill Murray's line in Stripes on this topic? Someone has to know it verbatim.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
dykstra
New member
"Chicks dig me cause I rarely wear underwear and when I do it's usually something unusual." John Winger
MattBMiller
New member
x2 on the Drill Doctor. I picked up the 750 a while back and it's paid for itself by now.
rschap1
Well-known member
F' them [...]
A 118 degree standard point is not that awful hard to sharpen by hand on a bench grinder. A little practice and you may not even need the drill doctor. As a toolmaker, I have always done them that way myself. But there is a wide variety of quality. The index full of Chinese bits at Harbor frieght ain't gonna hold up as good as domestic more pricey ones. The steel and heat treat aren't comprable. There is probably a J&L or Production Tool Supply near you or hit their sites. They will show import or Made in USA. There are many brands of good quality US made twist drills! But any will need to be resharpened after a few uses. Try to mimic the original tip and you'll be surprised how well you can redo them yourself. The larger the diameter the easier it is to do. Nice flat dressed wheel on your grinder.
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US1Fountain
Charter Member
Yep, no drill doctor here. I sharpen every drill by hand over 1/16". But then some 20yrs plus makes for alot of practice. 
Most any name brand drill will be fine for most jobs. If they are priced cheap, save them for butter. RPM, feed and oil are key factors to drilling. Turning a drill bit faster DOES NOT drill a hole faster. Just burns up the bit faster. And don't be afraid to put some pressure on it. You want to cut it, not rub it.
Most any name brand drill will be fine for most jobs. If they are priced cheap, save them for butter. RPM, feed and oil are key factors to drilling. Turning a drill bit faster DOES NOT drill a hole faster. Just burns up the bit faster. And don't be afraid to put some pressure on it. You want to cut it, not rub it.
Edward R. Cozzi
Founding Member
I stopped buying cheap bits years ago. It's just not worth the aggravation. Now I just buy the most expensive cobalt bits I can find.
Thanks for the posts about the Drill Doctor. I am now convinced to purchase one.
Thanks for the posts about the Drill Doctor. I am now convinced to purchase one.
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