Any lift truck or HD mechanics on board?

[mbam]

This is kind of boat related, we use the lift truck to move the boat. Is OK right?

We are just finishing up a brake job on our 9000lb Mitsubishi & I have a question about adjusting the wheel bearings. In my experience (which is limited to regular automotive and trailer stuff) the bearings are tightened (by hand) to seat them, spin the wheel a few times, tighten again and then back off to zero pre-load or slightly further as needed to align cotter pin(or other lock device).

Is this the same with the larger full-float axles or do the bearings actually get some pre-load?

Thanks!!

 

[Chris]

On something that low-speed, you want to be back an eighth turn or so from where they bind. Tighten and spin is correct. I'd even go so far as to use a tool to snug them down. They're big bearings on a truck that size. They can easily take the load.

On our larger trucks with oil-bath hubs, we run between an eighth and a quarter turn back from snug. Pre-loading a tapered bearing will kill it quickly.

 

[Sean Stinson]

Hey Mark Chris is right we used to tighten ours until it quit turning and backed it off a quarter turn what I mean is snug it by hand and spin it tighten till it stops and back it off!!!

 

[mbam]

Thanks guys, kind of what I figured, I'll know if I got it wrong when the wheels fall off

 

[FastDonzi]

It all depends on the type of bearing e.g. Tapered rollers or ball Bearings. the tapered rollers (like most old cars and trucks had) you tighten to zero Endplay (preload) then Back off enough to align the key/pin. about .025" is what your looking for. Ball bearings will have a spacer between the 2 bearings (inboard & outboard side of wheel) and don't require any end play, just tighten the nut, but make sure the wheels spin freely when done.