2000 7.3 PSD Hesitation

[Seafordguy]

2000 PSD - Has always (last 2 years) had a slight hesitation apparent with small amounts of throttle when cold but would be fine when it warmed up, so I just lived with it.

Started getting worse the last 2 days. Seems to be okay under VERY light throttle, and okay under FULL throttle, but in between it seems to be stumbling stuttering and hesitating a fair amount.

Thoughts guys? Throttle Pedal Assembly stands out from when I asked this question about a year ago on tdg.com back when it wasn't an annoying problem, but would these latest symptoms coincide with the Pedal Assembly Theory?

NO CODES or CEL.

OH - and can someone throw out the name of some vendors - trying to remember the name of the one I bought my E-brake cable from. I think they were in IN and had PowerStroke in the name - great to deal with. - NEVERMIND, I found it: powerstrokeshop.com

Countin on you fixxxer!!

Just disconnected the EBPV sensor with no change. They symptoms are VERY consistent relative to pedal input.....

Thanks,

Eric

 

[fixxxer22]

Any smoke when the concern is present? if so what color. And the pedal will not make a code in the pcm. If you had a pedal issue you would have a wrench lamp or a flashing OD off lamp. Let me know what you find.

 

[Seafordguy]

Any smoke when the concern is present? if so what color. And the pedal will not make a code in the pcm. If you had a pedal issue you would have a wrench lamp or a flashing OD off lamp. Let me know what you find.

No smoke at all, and no code.....

I'm a 6 speed. I am really leaning towards the pedal, since the occurrence is so consistent within the pedal range....

 

[BUIZILLA]

do a cylinder balance test, and a buzz test on each injector

you may have one weak injector coil, or a broken nozzle spring

 

[Seafordguy]

do a cylinder balance test, and a buzz test on each injector

you may have one weak injector coil, or a broken nozzle spring

Would those symptoms be consistent with a truck that runs so well as WOT?

 

[BUIZILLA]

yup

 

[fixxxer22]

when the pedal has a fault the truck goes to idle. there are position sensors that are inverted from each other. if they have a conflict of interest the truck will return to idle. also you should be able to duplicate the concern in neutral and all gears at the same pedal position.

is the truck returning to idle when the fault occours?

lets also check for icp sensor bias. disconnect the 3 wire sensor on the drivers side front of the head. it will be hooked to the hp oil rail in the head. it is in the valley facing inward... you cant miss it.

disconnect the sensor and drive the truck. this will make it run off of learned values and we will see if we have some sensor bias at that pressure. if the truck runs without hesitation i would replace the sensor. if theree is oil in the connector cavity i would replace the sensor and connector.

let me know what you find out

 

[Sick Sting]

Thats exaclly what mine did when the pedal was bad it was intermitan. Nothing would happen for a couple seconds with it to the floor all of a sudden it would open right up. I also had a problem with the back pressure valve not opening when you hit the brake. Sounds like a hissing sound when cold to help warm up. But you have a pedel issue as Fixxer said
-Mike

 

[ao31]

lets also check for icp sensor bias. disconnect the 3 wire sensor on the drivers side front of the head. it will be hooked to the hp oil rail in the head. it is in the valley facing inward... you cant miss it.

disconnect the sensor and drive the truck. this will make it run off of learned values and we will see if we have some sensor bias at that pressure. if the truck runs without hesitation i would replace the sensor. if theree is oil in the connector cavity i would replace the sensor and connector.

Had a similar issue with my '01

 

[Seafordguy]

when the pedal has a fault the truck goes to idle. there are position sensors that are inverted from each other. if they have a conflict of interest the truck will return to idle. also you should be able to duplicate the concern in neutral and all gears at the same pedal position.

is the truck returning to idle when the fault occours?

lets also check for icp sensor bias. disconnect the 3 wire sensor on the drivers side front of the head. it will be hooked to the hp oil rail in the head. it is in the valley facing inward... you cant miss it.

disconnect the sensor and drive the truck. this will make it run off of learned values and we will see if we have some sensor bias at that pressure. if the truck runs without hesitation i would replace the sensor. if theree is oil in the connector cavity i would replace the sensor and connector.

let me know what you find out

Just got home - Pulled the harness off, truck ran WITHOUT hesitation at all. Came back to the house, put the sensor back on - truck ran like CRAP.

I guess that sensor is bad.....

 

[fixxxer22]

If there is no presence of oil in the connector or cavity of the old sensor i would replace the sensor with a ford part. the sensor has been updated over the years and your best bet it a ford one. replace the sensor and the truck will run even better. you have a gap of bias in that sensor which is giving the injection system false readings at certain pressures. i have seen this happen many times... hell, the 6.0 had a recall at one time for the icp sensor due to the same concerns.

If you are feeling froggy you can replace the connector. that would be considered the perfect repair. let me know if you need part numbers

 

[Seafordguy]

If there is no presence of oil in the connector or cavity of the old sensor i would replace the sensor with a ford part. the sensor has been updated over the years and your best bet it a ford one. replace the sensor and the truck will run even better. you have a gap of bias in that sensor which is giving the injection system false readings at certain pressures. i have seen this happen many times... hell, the 6.0 had a recall at one time for the icp sensor due to the same concerns.

If you are feeling froggy you can replace the connector. that would be considered the perfect repair. let me know if you need part numbers

It was dry as a bone so at this point I will just replace the sensor. Is it okay for me to drive it around for a day or two disconnected?

fixxxer - you are going to be INVALUABLE..... THANKS!!

 

[fixxxer22]

Its ok, you will get a check engine lamp. Fuel economy will suffer and it may have a longer crank time when starting. Other than that it will not hurt the truck at all to run off of stored values that is what the PCM is there for.

To clear the codes down the road.... disconnect both batteries and tape the positive and negative leads togeter overnight. that will for sure clear out the codes.

 

[Seafordguy]

Its ok, you will get a check engine lamp. Fuel economy will suffer and it may have a longer crank time when starting. Other than that it will not hurt the truck at all to run off of stored values that is what the PCM is there for.

To clear the codes down the road.... disconnect both batteries and tape the positive and negative leads togeter overnight. that will for sure clear out the codes.

You are spot on - both times it did crank a little longer than normal (such that i noticed it).

I have a code reader so hopefully I can clear them with that, but it is one of those Advance Auto ones and i am not sure how helpful they are on the PSD.

Fixxxer - thanks a ton...

 

[fixxxer22]

The code reader will work just fine. And, no problem. I know about the Powerstrokes. Everyone else helps me with all of my marine problems so i am glad to return the favor.

 

[38fountainSC]

I had to replace mine do to intermittent stalling Problem. $149.00

 

[Birdog]

My 2000 PSd has become a real btch to start in the cold unless it's plugged in.
I replaced the solenoid for the glow plugs..It may have helped, A little
Any Ideas ?......Thanx

 

[fixxxer22]

My 2000 PSd has become a real btch to start in the cold unless it's plugged in.
I replaced the solenoid for the glow plugs..It may have helped, A little
Any Ideas ?......Thanx

How many miles and do you have a multimeter handy?

 

[Birdog]

How many miles and do you have a multimeter handy?

123,000....I have a multimeter

 

[fixxxer22]

Set your multimeter to the lowest scale of resistance (we are going to check continuity) disconnect the harnesses from the valve cover gaskets. on each bank there will be 2 larger pins on the each side of the connector cavity. those are the glow plug pins there will be four in each cavity. check their restance to ground each should be 1-2 ohms and have continuity to ground (b-)

if they all check out the next thing would require a dealership scanner. you would want to perform a injector buzz test cold and see if the injectors are sticking cold.