Recent content by Boat1

That would be fine, I can show the exhaust and the engines. One is a bare engine ready for the dyno, and one dressed with accessories.

Brian, If you search OSO you will find I have a negative history from years ago, and if you keep looking you will find I have done what I can to accept responsibilty and make right any bad dealings. I will gladly offer factual information privately that you can check out. I have no interest in...

The retainer plate is a plate that is designed with bend up lock tabs to keep the camshaft sproket bolts from coming loose, that is it's intended function. It will, by default, keep the degree bushings in place also.

Keep in mind that backing the timing down with a correct fuel curve raises the exhaust gas temperatures. I would set the timing at 34 or 36 total, your break-in is controlled by the throttle hand not the timing. If possible you really should dyno one engine and two carburetors, that will...

Yes, maximum lift is the lobe centerline number I was looking for. Use it as reference to determine amount of advance you are putting in the set-up. I would not mill the heads, your pistons provide plenty of compression for a boat. I would recommend advancing the cam 2 - 4 degrees, I think...

Forgot to mention the best way to get accurate timing changes is with the degree buttons that install in the cam gear and on the cam pin. They are sold in muti-timing packs, you drill an oversized hole in the cam gear to install them. If you build another engine next time spend $45.00 extra...

Glad you found some issues. First you really should be reading the lift numbers at the lifter, I reccommend buying a flat tappet lifter and welding a flat surface to the top of it so the dial indicator has a correct surface to work with. The pushrod system you are using will allow some...

I would agree with your thinking. Generally advancing a cam will bring peak torque down the rpm scale, help cylinder pressure, and help fill velocity. You must degree the camshaft to be sure everything is accurate. Your lift is not real big but also be sure to verify intake valve to piston...

Happy Anniversary Mr. and Mrs. Gordo!!! Many more to come.

Tyler, are you seeing these gains without modifying (cutting out the dividers) the lower intake runners and removing the tops down to the floor of the upper plenum?

carb and manifold Would you please send pictures of the carburetor and manifold to brokerralph@sbcglobal.net. Thank you.

Your engine should be a hydraulic roller camshaft, factory GM style lifters. These lifters limit your lift to about .605-.610. The factory cam is 224/224 duration @ .050 on a 115 Lobe Separation Angle, i forget the lift. The largest cam I would select for a 502 is 230/236 duration @ .050 and...

Marine Machine Steering Rams I've got a pair of Marine Machine rams with the clevis ends I'd ship to you for $800.00. I also have a polished tie-bar with the clevis ends for $150.00, I'll machine it to the length you need.

Looking for two 3" spacers for year 2000 Bravo 1 drives. Have two 2" spacers to swap or sell if interested.

Before you remove the crankshaft check the end play of the crankshaft, look for .005 to .008 play front to back. If you had trashy oil it will show in the main bearings with the rear main likely to be the worst, #1 or front main will likely be less scratched. On the rear main check the thrust...