Exhaust valves and plugs look good.....somehow. I noticed some water dripping (about 1 drop every 5 seconds) while flushing. Who said it doesn't pay to flush every time!!
Is it worth it to have the tailpipes repaired......or is that just a bad idea in the long run. Maybe time for new exhaust????? They are Stellings with 418 hours on them. Made in June/2001.....but flushed and Salt Awayed every time.
Exhaust valves and plugs look good.....somehow. I noticed some water dripping (about 1 drop every 5 seconds) while flushing. Who said it doesn't pay to flush every time!!
Is it worth it to have the tailpipes repaired......or is that just a bad idea in the long run. Maybe time for new exhaust????? They are Stelings with 418 hours on them. Made in June/2001.....but flushed and Salt Awayed every time.
The pictures make it hard to see. There is a crack on the interior weld of the tailpipe that runs about 1/3rd of the way around. Very much so clearly visable in real life.
Looking at the pic, it looks like it's in a place which can be easily repaired. But, I still think you need an expert to look at it. Engines are expensive and don't like water......
Looking at the pic, it looks like it's in a place which can be easily repaired. But, I still think you need an expert to look at it. Engines are expensive and don't like water......
It's what 8 or 9 years old? I wouldn't risk it. That's exactly how I blew up my last motor. Exhaust and water don't play nice together. If it's cracking/corroding/leaking, I'm sure there more damage than you see from the outside.
It's what 8 or 9 years old? I wouldn't risk it. That's exactly how I blew up my last motor. Exhaust and water don't play nice together. If it's cracking/corroding/leaking, I'm sure there more damage than you see from the outside.
That's what I'm thinking. My question was is it worth it to repair this....or just spring for new exhaust and be done with the worry.
I do know one thing...18-20K for news Stellings exhaust wasn't planned for in the boating budget this year!!
....I've heard good things about the Stainless marine systems. Don't have the "bling" factor of the Stellings......but all that is really needed is functionality!!
The Stainless Marine system is good, but you'll give away horsepower, not to mention that unmistakeable Stellings sound. You already know about the looks.
If you do go with manifolds, the Eickert's make very good power.
It's what 8 or 9 years old? I wouldn't risk it. That's exactly how I blew up my last motor. Exhaust and water don't play nice together. If it's cracking/corroding/leaking, I'm sure there more damage than you see from the outside.
I'd have it welded locally now that Jim has peeked at it and seen where the crack/leak is.
Couple of things though, the welder has to be certified for stainless and understand the differences between the different grades of stainless. 304, 316, etc. I'm assuming they are 316, call Stellings.
Send the pics to Stellings, they will have input and may know someone in your area they trust.
If you have it repaired, it must be pressure tested. Do not skip testing, not worth it......
And, Nick is right, to stay safe in the future, you'll either have to replace or test often....
The Stainless Marine system is good, but you'll give away horsepower, not to mention that unmistakeable Stellings sound. You already know about the looks.
If you do go with manifolds, the Eickert's make very good power.
I have Eickerts on the Black Thunder and Lightnings on the Empress and Scorpion. For the buck side for HP, not looks, I'm pretty happy with the Lightnings.
A certified stainless welder, who understands the material tendencies and the pre-heating procedures for welding SS would not be good enough? Some of those guys are certified to work on airplane repairs (NADCAP) etc.
Because Stellings knows more about their product than anyone else. And they've seen every conceivable problem and they've addressed it. They know what to look for.
I don't have any doubt a really good welder could do the repair. The biggest issue would be finding one. I have one here. The guy can weld two pieces of aluminum foil together- literally. But unless you know one personally and already have the trust in them, you know Stellings will do it right.
A few weeks ago, Jeremy had a drop drawbar fabricated by a local weld shop. It's a good thing he posted pics of it or there's a good chance what these "professionals" whipped up could have caused his 46 to pass him on the highway one afternoon. If you don't know as much or more than the guy doing it for you, at least make sure the guy doing it is the best there is.
The cryo will remove the stress placed there by the weld, which will go a long way towards staving off cracking. I'd do them at least every other season- you notice these headers never seem to crack right in the middle of one of the tubes? Ever wonder why? Especially where this piece is cracked- you'd expect that spot to be the most free of vibration-induced flexing.