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    dry exhaust?????
    #1
    i have ss headers short tails motor was getting water in it if i get tail pipes made do i have to go to the back of the boat or can i go to the transom tail pipes?????:bigear:
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    #2
    Charter Member old377guy's Avatar
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    bob, i'm not sure what you're asking; did the tailpipe have a rubber section joining it to the tailpipes before? are you now wanting to convert to full dry exhaust?
    People we meet in life are either a Blessing or a Lesson
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    #3
    Bob guy on ebay has a set of stainless dry for a buy it now or make offer. Just go dry for what you are running. It just isn't worth the risk again
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    #4
    thanks i check it out
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    #5
    Charter Member Griff's Avatar
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    How radical is the cam???? Those risers you have now are pretty short. I would think with longer wet risers and a reasonable cam, you should be fine.

    Dry Pipes need to extend through the transom. Longer wet pipes will be able to connect to exhaust tips.
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    #6
    griffi a comp cam11-414-8 all i no i dont want to pull the motor again i put new motor in today 624hp 659 tq at 5500 i was getting water in the motor . i took the tail pipes out . a few guys have dry set but no respose on them so if i can find a use set by monday i am buying new
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    #7
    Hey Bob that set that was on ebay isn't there anymore. They where listed under the stainless marine exhaust in the store sections. He wanted 1800 for the complete set. Good luck.
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    #8
    ok for the same price of ss riser pipes to be made i can get emi headers the water dumps 15in back ? i need more info on the to make shore they will work
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    #9
    Did stainless marine offer to extend your existing elbo's so you don't have to buy all new??? In the end you may want to just buy new anyway... Once you get the engine in the boat, Stainless Marine will send you a sheet and you'll have to take certain measurements which they use to build the pipes!
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Geronimo36 View Post
    Did stainless marine offer to extend your existing elbo's so you don't have to buy all new??? In the end you may want to just buy new anyway... Once you get the engine in the boat, Stainless Marine will send you a sheet and you'll have to take certain measurements which they use to build the pipes!
    yes i did $1788 i looking at emi
    http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/car...l&p=13079&c=63 wt do you think about these
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    #11
    ok i gave cam spec to eddie and he said i got to go dry header.that is wt i going to do nothing goes the way you want it more power alot more money
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    #12
    If you would have put the right cam in the motor for what it is being used for you would not have that problem too much duration for that rpm and not a enough lift motor is over camed if you ran less duration and more lift you would make at least the same or more power you need to be 240 or less for duration @50 for 6000 rpm or less
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    #13
    hay rock your rigth i did not do my home work i pay some one to build my motor i did wrong they did not give me the rigth cam now i am paying for it thats sad ! i wish i would of got on these froums and ask ????? who will be the man that no how to build a marine motor ?? to late now i got to deal with this now. . i ask ?? and you guys tell me wt i should of done ! i am learning the hard way . so keep telling me wt to do i will try to get it rigth thanks again for all the info you guys give me . i hope this summer is great for all
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by bajabob 600 View Post
    hay rock your rigth i did not do my home work i pay some one to build my motor i did wrong they did not give me the rigth cam now i am paying for it thats sad ! i wish i would of got on these froums and ask ????? who will be the man that no how to build a marine motor ?? to late now i got to deal with this now. . i ask ?? and you guys tell me wt i should of done ! i am learning the hard way . so keep telling me wt to do i will try to get it rigth thanks again for all the info you guys give me . i hope this summer is great for all
    Hello Bob,
    I wasn't trying to rip on you for that... It might be in your best to make the right cam choice now then later you can get better performance out of a lower cam duration and more lift if @ the rpm your running you have ??'s ask be for buying parts there are a lot of great people here that will give the information you need to go in the right direction I hope things go well you. by the way I'm running a ultradyne Roller cam 228/336 lift .601 lift gen6 502
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    #15
    Is Ultradyne still grinding cams thought they where taken over by ? any 1 know ?
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by rockfish71 View Post
    Hello Bob,
    I wasn't trying to rip on you for that... It might be in your best to make the right cam choice now then later you can get better performance out of a lower cam duration and more lift if @ the rpm your running you have ??'s ask be for buying parts there are a lot of great people here that will give the information you need to go in the right direction I hope things go well you. by the way I'm running a ultradyne Roller cam 228/336 lift .601 lift gen6 502
    rock i am ok i like when you guy give me info . that the only way we learn even if i get busted on i am cool with that
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by tango View Post
    Is Ultradyne still grinding cams thought they where taken over by ? any 1 know ?
    Here you go.... if you need to talk to someone there talk to Tim goolsby
    http://www.bulletcams.com/
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    #18
    Registered Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bajabob 600 View Post
    ok for the same price of ss riser pipes to be made i can get emi headers the water dumps 15in back ? i need more info on the to make shore they will work
    What I did when I was in that predicament was this. I went to autozone and bought various lengths of exhaust tubing that would fit inside my exhaust gas pipe seperating the gas completely from the water. I was really ****ed so I started with tubes going out the back of the boat about 3'. The I kept taking sections out until I could just start to see some wetness getting into the exhaust chamber. That happened to be about the end of my exhaust tips. Then I made up some neat fitting inner tubes of the right length and with some fasteners clamping them in at the ends, whala, dry exhaust. No more water reversion.

    I don't know the specs on that cam, but another common cause of reversion is the cam not being installed properly. If it is retarded it will suck water.
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