Ilmor 725/Indy build from the beginning

[ILMORdude]

Chuck, you are aware of the transom drill jig we have right? Its a pretty sweet setup.

And ps- Great work this weekend!!

[C_Spray]

Chuck, you are aware of the transom drill jig we have right? Its a pretty sweet setup.

Ian promised that you guys would loan it to me. Send me details, or better yet - post them here.

And ps- Great work this weekend!!

GlassDave knows his stuff, which is great because this was an unusual fill-in and will be pushed pretty hard. Even before we added the last few layers, it was solid as a rock. He and I both lost some sleep last week while we were working out the actual cutout patterns and lamination schedule, but we were both immensely pleased with the final result. Once we got everything opened up and prepared, we were both amazed by the build quality of this hull. It was laid up by a yard in Norway that specializes in racing sailboats; they did an incredible job.

[C_Spray]

More shots of ILMORDude's handiwork. A really clever packaging job on these engines.

Because the stingers in my boat are very close together, I have to use foot-style forward engine mounts instead of an offshore-style plate. I was a little nervous about this until I saw the mounts in these pictures. Definitely uber-beefy parts. Nice.

[Biggus]

Very clean. Great use of space.

[Wahoo 214]

Excellent project.

What is the Loto Kilo record for a single stock 28' Vee? I bet that you can be close.

[macjazzy]

Looks great, awesome engineering in those engines. I do have a question though, are they going to make that oil filter remote mount? If not will you have any issues changing it in your boat?

It is definately in a better spot for maintenance than where a Chevy variant engine would be without a remote mount, But it looks like it will still be fairly deep in the bilge.

[Uncle Dave]

Looking awesome as per usual Ilmor.

It takes a great deal of time and effort to properly assemble an all aluminum engine.

You need to be very very careful paying extra attention to threading and proper torque, or risk stripping, cross threading and pulling out bolts.


Uncle Dave

[ILMORdude]

More shots of ILMORDude's handiwork. A really clever packaging job on these engines.

Because the stingers in my boat are very close together, I have to use foot-style forward engine mounts instead of an offshore-style plate. I was a little nervous about this until I saw the mounts in these pictures. Definitely uber-beefy parts. Nice.

Thanks!! I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy assembling them!

Looking awesome as per usual Ilmor.

It takes a great deal of time and effort to properly assemble an all aluminum engine.

You need to be very very careful paying extra attention to threading and proper torque, or risk stripping, cross threading and pulling out bolts.


Uncle Dave

You know it............Thx UD

[C_Spray]

This is the forward side of the gimbal, a very butch part. The single (gigantic) trim ram attaches to the lower arms. Trim position sensing is done electronically via a rotary sensor, so there are no push-pull cables to route, seal, sieze or break.

The rearward end of the steering rams attach to the clevises that you see on either side.

[C_Spray]

The completely self-contained dry sump lower unit. The oil reservoir is cast into the lower unit, so there is no need to mount one inside the boat, and therefore no lines to run to/from the drive.
I believe that the o-ring at the front seals the pressure feed to the upper unit. Since the drive oil circulates back down into the lower unit and gets cooled, there is no need for a drive shower.

[C_Spray]

Based on this shot of complete drives, business appears to be moving along...

[cowisl]

Based on this shot of complete drives, business appears to be moving along...

Keep the pics coming. cool thread!

[Uncle Dave]

The completely self-contained dry sump lower unit. The oil reservoir is cast into the lower unit, so there is no need to mount one inside the boat, and therefore no lines to run to/from the drive.
I believe that the o-ring at the front seals the pressure feed to the upper unit. Since the drive oil circulates back down into the lower unit and gets cooled, there is no need for a drive shower.

F-in awesome.

UD

[lavey jr]

Everything is looking really good.
I'm looking foward to seeing how this boat runs with a single Indy drive and #6 prop.

[C_Spray]

Transom casting - another beefy piece. There is no inner transom casting, only a backup plate. Everything hangs off of this piece.

Rear view:The lower gimbal pin is supported both inside and outside of the gimbal ring to put the pin in double shear and provide more strength to handle the thrust loads. The two ears at the lower corners are the attachment points for the forward end of the steering rams.

Front view:The "Pi symbol"-shaped casting at the top has all the ports for both the integrated hydraulic steering and the trim. Fittings can be attached from either side or both sides in the case of twin installations. The transmission slips into the front of the central bore, and a pin slides through the boss you see above that bore and through a clevis on the top of the transmission. That is the rear engine mount, so there is no alinging to do at the rear. Good thinking (and just like a Volvo DPX... ). PLUS - The boat doesn't sink if the bellows gets torn.

[stainless]

Very Cool!

[C_Spray]

GlassDave's excellent drawing of the transom lamination. The dashed yellow lines indicate 7 ounce Kevlar, the dashed black lines indicate 5 ounce carbon fiber, and the dashed silver lines indicate 17 ounce biaxial S-glass. There are actually three layers of glass on the inside, tabbed into the floor and stringers, and no less than seven layers of glass on the outside.

[ILMORdude]

Chuck, Post the complete transom assy pics. Ill get a good shot of our drill jig so everyone can see it tomm

[SHARKEY-IMAGES]

Coming along nicely Chuck !

[Wrinkleface]

very cool!